- Thread starter
- #161
Arabian gray is nice, and was available on r107s, but the only pics I can find are Pagodas and modern Benzes
Last edited:
Builds 1973 Mercedes R107 build
- Thread starter Gumby
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
LukeZero
Deeply Confused
Oooooooohhh that’s a nice medium gray.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
Nice job on the top! I think I will let the interior guy play with that when the time comes. I know what you mean about the grays. I sprayed my wheel wells with epoxy primer after stripping and that shiny gray has grown on me.
- Thread starter
- #164
I'm wondering if this is how this car is gonna be now. A few days ago, the car started running poorly. Wouldn't Rev over 2000. Backfire. Hard start like way advanced timing, but just every once in a while. Bad spark knock. When it did it, the wideband would go lean, but only to about 15:1. Plugs looked very good. Nice light tan. A couple of times the main power fuse to the PCM, injectors and coils woul pop. I got involved with the top and didn't mess with it until today except to change the fuel filter again.
I pulled the plugs and hooked them to the plug wires with the plugs grounded on the valve covers. Then I used the hardware test mode in Tuner Studio to fire the plugs in wasted spark pairs. Every so often all the plugs would fire. When it did the fuel pump would slow way down. (The pump runs when the key is on and its an external Bosch. You can hear it.) While I was testing to get some idea of what was happening the fuse to the speeduino popped. I tossed a circuit breaker in. The next time it popped, I found the ground to the coil trigger was very hot. My theory was the coils were losing trigger ground and the trigger signal was backfeeding and firing the other coils. Firing all the coils at once was drawing too much power. I checked and the trigger ground and coil grounds and they were switched. trigger ground to the engine and coil ground to the PCM. I think the trigger ground wire got hot and was loosing connectivity intermittantly. Fixed that and it runs good again.
On the test drive I got waved at by a lady in a Sebring convertible. It was like getting the jeep wave when I drove the FJ45. You collect rubber ducks and think angry eyes are an off road accessory. We are not the same. We are not buddies.
Pic just because it's nice to look at.
I pulled the plugs and hooked them to the plug wires with the plugs grounded on the valve covers. Then I used the hardware test mode in Tuner Studio to fire the plugs in wasted spark pairs. Every so often all the plugs would fire. When it did the fuel pump would slow way down. (The pump runs when the key is on and its an external Bosch. You can hear it.) While I was testing to get some idea of what was happening the fuse to the speeduino popped. I tossed a circuit breaker in. The next time it popped, I found the ground to the coil trigger was very hot. My theory was the coils were losing trigger ground and the trigger signal was backfeeding and firing the other coils. Firing all the coils at once was drawing too much power. I checked and the trigger ground and coil grounds and they were switched. trigger ground to the engine and coil ground to the PCM. I think the trigger ground wire got hot and was loosing connectivity intermittantly. Fixed that and it runs good again.
On the test drive I got waved at by a lady in a Sebring convertible. It was like getting the jeep wave when I drove the FJ45. You collect rubber ducks and think angry eyes are an off road accessory. We are not the same. We are not buddies.
Pic just because it's nice to look at.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #165
I was today years old when I learned how to install headrest foam into a cover. Pulled the inner frame out. Sucked the foam up with a shop vac and a plastic bag. Squashed it good with my hands and the vac held it squashed. Slid right in the cover. Which I dint take a pic of.
The horsehair mess was from the 73. The foam ones are 78. Both are early headrests with the ears.
The horsehair mess was from the 73. The foam ones are 78. Both are early headrests with the ears.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #166
The 73 came with bright green seats over busted up and cobbled frames. The 78 came with good frames and padding, but the leather was trashed.
Coincidently, both cars came with avacado green interiors originally. The 78 had been dyed black and the 73 recovered with cheap seat covers in a worse shade of green.
There are a lot of replacement covers. One company is about a third of the cost of the others. MikesMercs on YT ordered a set of them and was unhappy. It's clear the green seat covers are that brand. The good ones are about $1000.
I figured I might dye the green covers and put them on the good frames for a few reasons:
1. The Audi seats aren't right. They don't look right and they don't sit exactly fight. They are nice, reasonably comfortable, and don't look terrible. I wanted to see if the stock seats sit better.
B. The old seat parts were taking up too much space in the shop. They needed to be consolidated into coherent parts.
iii. Armrest
The old seats are old seats. Spring steel, horsehair and old thin foam. I added an inch of memory foam to the bottoms, but not the back. I ordered a second black headrest and a black armrest cover.
Dyed the green leather. I scrubbed with the supplied cleaner and gray 3m pad, then pre-dye adhesion promoter. The dye went on with a sponge and a lot of coats to cover the green. Then a low gloss top coat. It came out OK. We'll see how it wears. The red car seats were dyed and it lasted until they fell apart.
Installed them in the car. They fit nice, as they should. Look correct. Slide nice. Are pretty OK comfortable. 1960s comfortable. A good inch lower. Armrest is great, but I lost my cupholders
So... nice looking comfortable wrong seats, or kinda poor fitting dyed covers on right seats? 1st 2 pics are benz seats. 2nd are Audi seats.
Obviously, the correct choice is to get new SLShop seat springs, new horsehair pads, and quality covers. Maybe at some point I'll be looking at $2000 worth of seat parts. Not yet.
Maybe sheepskin covers on stock crappy cover seats. With the arm rest and pussy hat headrests sticking out.
Coincidently, both cars came with avacado green interiors originally. The 78 had been dyed black and the 73 recovered with cheap seat covers in a worse shade of green.
There are a lot of replacement covers. One company is about a third of the cost of the others. MikesMercs on YT ordered a set of them and was unhappy. It's clear the green seat covers are that brand. The good ones are about $1000.
I figured I might dye the green covers and put them on the good frames for a few reasons:
1. The Audi seats aren't right. They don't look right and they don't sit exactly fight. They are nice, reasonably comfortable, and don't look terrible. I wanted to see if the stock seats sit better.
B. The old seat parts were taking up too much space in the shop. They needed to be consolidated into coherent parts.
iii. Armrest
The old seats are old seats. Spring steel, horsehair and old thin foam. I added an inch of memory foam to the bottoms, but not the back. I ordered a second black headrest and a black armrest cover.
Dyed the green leather. I scrubbed with the supplied cleaner and gray 3m pad, then pre-dye adhesion promoter. The dye went on with a sponge and a lot of coats to cover the green. Then a low gloss top coat. It came out OK. We'll see how it wears. The red car seats were dyed and it lasted until they fell apart.
Installed them in the car. They fit nice, as they should. Look correct. Slide nice. Are pretty OK comfortable. 1960s comfortable. A good inch lower. Armrest is great, but I lost my cupholders
So... nice looking comfortable wrong seats, or kinda poor fitting dyed covers on right seats? 1st 2 pics are benz seats. 2nd are Audi seats.
Obviously, the correct choice is to get new SLShop seat springs, new horsehair pads, and quality covers. Maybe at some point I'll be looking at $2000 worth of seat parts. Not yet.
Maybe sheepskin covers on stock crappy cover seats. With the arm rest and pussy hat headrests sticking out.
LukeZero
Deeply Confused
I think keeping it as original as possible is the way to go. Even if the cost is pretty high. You’ll be happier in the long run
- Thread starter
- #168
Good quality sheepskin covers are about as much as GAHH MB-Tex covers.
- Thread starter
- #169
Got another headrest cover. Oem leather. Looks like the rest of the seats should.
Got an etsy armrest cover. I wrapped my armrest with 1" foam and it is still loose an terrible looking. Works for the moment.
I started on the last metal repair. A set of 1/8 holes from the bad old days of slide hammers. Ran across the body line at the lower front corner of the filler door down aboutn6 inches. I welded the holes shut. The metal was actually pulled out very nice. A thin layer of Upol fine strand and some thinned filler made the repair go away.
Things got out of hand and I blocked the whole tail, sprayed it with Slick Sand, blocked the high build, and hit it with 2 coats of sealer. It cleaned up a bunch of dings, scratches and grinding marks.
Took it for a drive to buy a set of 15" hubcaps for steelies. Wall art right now. Runs great.
Got an etsy armrest cover. I wrapped my armrest with 1" foam and it is still loose an terrible looking. Works for the moment.
I started on the last metal repair. A set of 1/8 holes from the bad old days of slide hammers. Ran across the body line at the lower front corner of the filler door down aboutn6 inches. I welded the holes shut. The metal was actually pulled out very nice. A thin layer of Upol fine strand and some thinned filler made the repair go away.
Things got out of hand and I blocked the whole tail, sprayed it with Slick Sand, blocked the high build, and hit it with 2 coats of sealer. It cleaned up a bunch of dings, scratches and grinding marks.
Took it for a drive to buy a set of 15" hubcaps for steelies. Wall art right now. Runs great.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #170
Stopped in at a boat launch Monday morning because the light was nice.
Stopped next to a cornfield on the way home because timing chain had left the chat.
It looks like the idler pulley seized. That's where the shredded chain happened. The upper chain guides look all good.
The valves are all tight to the cam followers so I think they are ok.
Stopped next to a cornfield on the way home because timing chain had left the chat.
It looks like the idler pulley seized. That's where the shredded chain happened. The upper chain guides look all good.
The valves are all tight to the cam followers so I think they are ok.
- Thread starter
- #171
Well, the good news is I found the missing cam gear spacer. It goes between the cam gear and the cam and has the timing mark on it. I saw it was missing when I installed the chain. Couldn't find it anywhere. Stole one off the spare motor.
The really good news is the problem doesn't involve anything seized. A simple chain replacement should be fine. The case got a little scarred.
I did pull the motor and trans to pull the cover. The oil pan really needs to come off to pull the cover and it definitely had lots of timing chain in it. The trans needed front and rear seals. If I can find them I'll do shift shaft and kick down shaft too. I needed to re-do the rear main seal on the crank too. It looks OK, but it's leaking. It might need a speedy sleeve.
Chain sprockets all look ok.
Chain and gaskets ordered. Seals already here.
I ordered a new firewall insulation pad too. While the motor is out.
And the very first thing i did was adjust the steering gear pre-load. I forgot last time the engine was out.
The really good news is the problem doesn't involve anything seized. A simple chain replacement should be fine. The case got a little scarred.
I did pull the motor and trans to pull the cover. The oil pan really needs to come off to pull the cover and it definitely had lots of timing chain in it. The trans needed front and rear seals. If I can find them I'll do shift shaft and kick down shaft too. I needed to re-do the rear main seal on the crank too. It looks OK, but it's leaking. It might need a speedy sleeve.
Chain sprockets all look ok.
Chain and gaskets ordered. Seals already here.
I ordered a new firewall insulation pad too. While the motor is out.
And the very first thing i did was adjust the steering gear pre-load. I forgot last time the engine was out.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #172
Installed the new chain. Went to check valve clearances and #7E was about 3mm. Put some air to it and had 100% leak down out of the exhaust. #6 had about 40% out the exhaust. Of course, one of the intake valves was bent on the other head. After i pulled the heads i filled the combustion chambers with acetone. Those three were the only that leaked. You can't hardly tell the exhaust valves were bent. Even rolling the stems on a table didn't show much. I chucked them in the drill press next to a square and you could see they were tweaked.
Pulled a head off the spare m117 and pulled the 3 valves. Found the valve seals I had ordered before. Did all of those while the heads were off. I've got a week before the closest head gaskets get here anyway. 73-75 only. Right side from TX and the left side with intake kit from DC. That doesn't happen with an LS. They got LS head gaskets at the Walmart.
Cleaned the block and painted the intake valley. It's dry so paint is OK. MB painted the front and rear with the red. It hasn't flaked in 50 years, so I figured it could stay.
Test fit the front cover. There's a lot of timing cover parts to line up with very little clearance on the chain path. Also, the oil pump gear chain needs to be installed on the crank gear as the timing case goes on. Blind. The plan was to test fit before putting Right Stuff on it and maybe I wouldn't look like Al Jolsen when I was done. You know what Iron Mike said about plans. I think I got most of the smudges off the front cover and block. It'll wear off my skin eventually. Good thing my pants were black. You can hardly see the spots.
Put the cleaned out oil pan back on. All the parts of chain were whole. One chunk of aluminum from the boss on the head.
Went around ans around on painting the engine bay, but I'm not 100% on the color. The wife likes the car, so her input counts. If she wants it to replace the VTX she never rides, then I get to get something else and still keep this car in the garage. It also might help with the new garage lobbying. I think i have her sold on more vehicle storage, but she thinks three more bays is enough. Thats just nonsense.
I got to looking at the work to strip the engine bay just enough to replace the firewall insulation and decided it was a problem for final paint Gum. I masked and painted the few yellow spots that were showing and decided I could live with red overspray.
Spent a bunch of time looking for the trans input seal I had ordered and forgot to put in. Turns out a 5vz cam seal is really close. 1mm too tight on the ID. Fount the correct seal before I did something stupid. The rear seal is the one leaking. Fortunately that one did not fall off the shelf and between tool cabinets like the input seal. So i could replace that one. Cept it turns out it needs a special 4 toothed socket to remove the output flange nut. So that's on its way. After Labor Day weekend it will be. Presumably.
Pulled a head off the spare m117 and pulled the 3 valves. Found the valve seals I had ordered before. Did all of those while the heads were off. I've got a week before the closest head gaskets get here anyway. 73-75 only. Right side from TX and the left side with intake kit from DC. That doesn't happen with an LS. They got LS head gaskets at the Walmart.
Cleaned the block and painted the intake valley. It's dry so paint is OK. MB painted the front and rear with the red. It hasn't flaked in 50 years, so I figured it could stay.
Test fit the front cover. There's a lot of timing cover parts to line up with very little clearance on the chain path. Also, the oil pump gear chain needs to be installed on the crank gear as the timing case goes on. Blind. The plan was to test fit before putting Right Stuff on it and maybe I wouldn't look like Al Jolsen when I was done. You know what Iron Mike said about plans. I think I got most of the smudges off the front cover and block. It'll wear off my skin eventually. Good thing my pants were black. You can hardly see the spots.
Put the cleaned out oil pan back on. All the parts of chain were whole. One chunk of aluminum from the boss on the head.
Went around ans around on painting the engine bay, but I'm not 100% on the color. The wife likes the car, so her input counts. If she wants it to replace the VTX she never rides, then I get to get something else and still keep this car in the garage. It also might help with the new garage lobbying. I think i have her sold on more vehicle storage, but she thinks three more bays is enough. Thats just nonsense.
I got to looking at the work to strip the engine bay just enough to replace the firewall insulation and decided it was a problem for final paint Gum. I masked and painted the few yellow spots that were showing and decided I could live with red overspray.
Spent a bunch of time looking for the trans input seal I had ordered and forgot to put in. Turns out a 5vz cam seal is really close. 1mm too tight on the ID. Fount the correct seal before I did something stupid. The rear seal is the one leaking. Fortunately that one did not fall off the shelf and between tool cabinets like the input seal. So i could replace that one. Cept it turns out it needs a special 4 toothed socket to remove the output flange nut. So that's on its way. After Labor Day weekend it will be. Presumably.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #173
Repaired, resealed and reinstalled. Little bit of buttoning up.
I need to find or fab a new hold down clamp for the cam sensor, fill it with fluids, and some minor tidying.
I need to make extender brackets to put in the hood hinges so I can do the extra hood opening hack without a prop rod.
I need to find or fab a new hold down clamp for the cam sensor, fill it with fluids, and some minor tidying.
I need to make extender brackets to put in the hood hinges so I can do the extra hood opening hack without a prop rod.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #174
Spent some time figuring out why I had no oil pressure on the gauge. I spent the week going out to crank the motor with the plugs out and valve covers off. It's about all I had time to do. Got nowhere. I was worried I had a leak at the timing cover that was dumping pressure.
Dropped the oil and stuck an endoscope up there. The chain drive oil pump was turning. I know the roll pin was in and held in with the proper flanged bolt.
Pulled the oil filter and it was full up into the housing with oil. Suggested the oil pump was working. Pulled the housing and verified the oil was pumping into the filter housing. The pump was primed just fine.
Threaded a barbed fitting into the oil filter housing with a chunk of heater hose over the oil ports. Used my Mighty vac pump that I bought for tundra transmission fluid to pump fluid under pressure up into the distribution system. No oil to the cams. When the pump ran dry I heard the gurgle from the front cover. Pulled the two plugs out of the timing cover. Oil was coming out of the threaded hole behind the top plug. Checked the other engine. Pulled the oil pressure regulator out of that one and installed it into the one in the car. A few cranks later and oil was coming out of the cam oilers tube.
Has a miss when warm, but trans and oil leaks seem under control. Steering is much tighter. Put some new michelins on that i bought on clean, but worn bundt wheels. Now I have a spare set to refinish and it came with a 5th never used OEM spare. Guy had an import 280SL. I didn't check if it was a manual. The I6s were the only ones that came with one.
Mostly very happy to have figured it out.
Dropped the oil and stuck an endoscope up there. The chain drive oil pump was turning. I know the roll pin was in and held in with the proper flanged bolt.
Pulled the oil filter and it was full up into the housing with oil. Suggested the oil pump was working. Pulled the housing and verified the oil was pumping into the filter housing. The pump was primed just fine.
Threaded a barbed fitting into the oil filter housing with a chunk of heater hose over the oil ports. Used my Mighty vac pump that I bought for tundra transmission fluid to pump fluid under pressure up into the distribution system. No oil to the cams. When the pump ran dry I heard the gurgle from the front cover. Pulled the two plugs out of the timing cover. Oil was coming out of the threaded hole behind the top plug. Checked the other engine. Pulled the oil pressure regulator out of that one and installed it into the one in the car. A few cranks later and oil was coming out of the cam oilers tube.
Has a miss when warm, but trans and oil leaks seem under control. Steering is much tighter. Put some new michelins on that i bought on clean, but worn bundt wheels. Now I have a spare set to refinish and it came with a 5th never used OEM spare. Guy had an import 280SL. I didn't check if it was a manual. The I6s were the only ones that came with one.
Mostly very happy to have figured it out.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #175
One of the CV boots was leaking old ass grease juice from the cracks in the CV boots, so I replaced the shafts. Cleaned up the diff. New axle seals. Kinda crazy how they come apart. POR-15 on the cast iron housing. Clear on the aluminum cover.
I had used a idle air control valve from car depot. I don't know it was the best choice, but it worked. I wanted to use a GM stepper motor that I was familiar with and would always be able to get.
zcardepot.com
I recently bought a 3d printer. A Bambu Labs X1C. I bought it to print car parts. The Lincoln needs a driver armrest. The Benz needs the center console support stuff rebuilt. Unobtainable stuff. Like 1st gen skinner A pillar hard to get. Now, theoretically, I can print all that stuff, although I think I'd need a scan of the pillar trim.
My first car part I've built from a blank screen on FreeCAD is a cover for the IAC filter. Maybe one more version to tweak it. Version 1.3 works pretty good. 1.4 will have a different angle on the filtered air tube and will be out of PLA-CF. The hiss from the IAC is gone. The little filter should stay way cleaner, or I could print a spacer to eliminate the filter.
I had used a idle air control valve from car depot. I don't know it was the best choice, but it worked. I wanted to use a GM stepper motor that I was familiar with and would always be able to get.
Remote Idle Air Control Valve EFI with IAC
Remote Idle Air Control Valve EFI with IAC - 650-206 (). Remote idle air control valve for use with EFI.
zcardepot.com
I recently bought a 3d printer. A Bambu Labs X1C. I bought it to print car parts. The Lincoln needs a driver armrest. The Benz needs the center console support stuff rebuilt. Unobtainable stuff. Like 1st gen skinner A pillar hard to get. Now, theoretically, I can print all that stuff, although I think I'd need a scan of the pillar trim.
My first car part I've built from a blank screen on FreeCAD is a cover for the IAC filter. Maybe one more version to tweak it. Version 1.3 works pretty good. 1.4 will have a different angle on the filtered air tube and will be out of PLA-CF. The hiss from the IAC is gone. The little filter should stay way cleaner, or I could print a spacer to eliminate the filter.
- Thread starter
- #176
New lugs. Lugnutguys.com fast and good price. Correct ball taper. We'll have to see on the quality of the plating.
- Thread starter
- #177
Re-printed the IAC cover to fit under the air filter. Ordered a curvy hose to reposition it.
I had to make a new harness from the blower switch to the blower resistor and blower motor, but I am blowing warm air through the defrost vents now. A ride for ice cream in 50 degree weather let us try it out. It worked well with the top and windows down, windows up and top up as the drive took longer than expected and included some rain.
Today's math problem - how to get roughly the same resistance from the 2 resistor blocks. The goal is to use switch 10 with resistor block 10 to run motor 5 at more or less the same 4 speeds.
I had to make a new harness from the blower switch to the blower resistor and blower motor, but I am blowing warm air through the defrost vents now. A ride for ice cream in 50 degree weather let us try it out. It worked well with the top and windows down, windows up and top up as the drive took longer than expected and included some rain.
Today's math problem - how to get roughly the same resistance from the 2 resistor blocks. The goal is to use switch 10 with resistor block 10 to run motor 5 at more or less the same 4 speeds.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #178
Put close to 200 miles on it in the last two days.
32 degrees on Thursday at 6am. Top makes a lot of noise around the windows. But a squealy blower motor that works and a blend door that defaults to defrost is good enough. No dash lights. Been a while since ive driven it in the dark. Google maps shows speed. Probably best i cant see the other gauges. Thursday we re-aimed the headlights, fixed the dash lights that had disappeared, but the radio quit working. The drive home was quieter. The Benz flows air fairly well. it's pretty quiet with the top down. I could hear my phone speaker fine. Noticed the clock stopped working and surmised the constant power to the radio was tapped off the clock wire. Fixed the fuse and had both again.
30 degrees on Friday morning. Aimed headlights made me stop thinking about LEDs. Dash lights are a bit bright but it's a crusty potentiometer that made them disappear the day before so i let it be. Heat was great and got me thinking about the hard top and how far I could push it. I'm pretty well into deer season now. Saw two cross the road this morning. I should leave the hardtop be.
I ended up installing the 73 blower motor that had the 8 pin resistor block hard wired to it since the 78 fan had a squeal. I had found it the night before. We took the pins out of the 6 pin socket and wired the 8 pin as it was in the 73. We thought. Unfortunately, the 73 wiring diagram doesn't number the pins, (see previous) even though the physical resistor block does.
Turns out the blower motor fuse is also the fuse for whatever unused HVAC plug i tapped into for ignition power for the Speeduino ignition relay. Turned on the blower on the test drive and the car shut off. It seems terminals got switched when re-pinning. Also turns out the big baggie of GBC fuses in the glove box wasn't. Fortunately, I didn't need headlights for the drive home where I found a box of assorted GBC fuses also not in the car.
Fount the problem with only a couple of fuses. Probably should find my jumper wire with the breaker. Everything put back together and working. Still need to design and print an 8-pin plug to replace the stock 72-75 one that prolly went to scrap, but it works and I am dedicated to the driving project concept. I might only have 4 more good days this fall.
Both grille spears have now broken off. Another 3d printer project.
32 degrees on Thursday at 6am. Top makes a lot of noise around the windows. But a squealy blower motor that works and a blend door that defaults to defrost is good enough. No dash lights. Been a while since ive driven it in the dark. Google maps shows speed. Probably best i cant see the other gauges. Thursday we re-aimed the headlights, fixed the dash lights that had disappeared, but the radio quit working. The drive home was quieter. The Benz flows air fairly well. it's pretty quiet with the top down. I could hear my phone speaker fine. Noticed the clock stopped working and surmised the constant power to the radio was tapped off the clock wire. Fixed the fuse and had both again.
30 degrees on Friday morning. Aimed headlights made me stop thinking about LEDs. Dash lights are a bit bright but it's a crusty potentiometer that made them disappear the day before so i let it be. Heat was great and got me thinking about the hard top and how far I could push it. I'm pretty well into deer season now. Saw two cross the road this morning. I should leave the hardtop be.
I ended up installing the 73 blower motor that had the 8 pin resistor block hard wired to it since the 78 fan had a squeal. I had found it the night before. We took the pins out of the 6 pin socket and wired the 8 pin as it was in the 73. We thought. Unfortunately, the 73 wiring diagram doesn't number the pins, (see previous) even though the physical resistor block does.
Turns out the blower motor fuse is also the fuse for whatever unused HVAC plug i tapped into for ignition power for the Speeduino ignition relay. Turned on the blower on the test drive and the car shut off. It seems terminals got switched when re-pinning. Also turns out the big baggie of GBC fuses in the glove box wasn't. Fortunately, I didn't need headlights for the drive home where I found a box of assorted GBC fuses also not in the car.
Fount the problem with only a couple of fuses. Probably should find my jumper wire with the breaker. Everything put back together and working. Still need to design and print an 8-pin plug to replace the stock 72-75 one that prolly went to scrap, but it works and I am dedicated to the driving project concept. I might only have 4 more good days this fall.
Both grille spears have now broken off. Another 3d printer project.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #179
Print 8 was the magic number for the plug that worked. It's pretty nice to get it to a point and then print a copy. Then modify as needed. It fits tight to the resistor block with just enough clearance for the pins. The OEM cap snaps on.
Of course I put the blower motor cover back on before I took a picture. It has a little porch roof over the plug so you can see much when it's assembled.
I also had to fix the tabs on the grille. The aftermarket grille had broken off three of the four tabs that hold the chrome plated metal spears. I looked at the OEM one I had. It had broken tabs as well and a broken slat as well. Gluing new tabs on wasn't enough. I made parts that wrap around the uprights, bolt together and were strong enough. I glued them before clamping them down.
Of course I put the blower motor cover back on before I took a picture. It has a little porch roof over the plug so you can see much when it's assembled.
I also had to fix the tabs on the grille. The aftermarket grille had broken off three of the four tabs that hold the chrome plated metal spears. I looked at the OEM one I had. It had broken tabs as well and a broken slat as well. Gluing new tabs on wasn't enough. I made parts that wrap around the uprights, bolt together and were strong enough. I glued them before clamping them down.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #180
Another distraction. Owning a trailer leads to poor decisions. Price dropped drastically on a 73 W113 i was eyeing for parts. I don't really need the parts, and the body is really good. Paid $700.
Last edited:
