- Thread starter
- #121
Repaired hole.
Repaired with channel and POR-15
Repaired with channel and POR-15
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Builds 1973 Mercedes R107 build (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter Gumby
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #122
Newer chrome piece. And over rider's.
Benz bumper compared to Lincoln bumper
Inner of the worse side. Sanded, treated and coated.
Benz bumper compared to Lincoln bumper
Inner of the worse side. Sanded, treated and coated.
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- Thread starter
- #123
Installed
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- Thread starter
- #124
Red deck lid was really terrible. Paint was just destroyed. Metal underneath was fine. Re-done in epoxy primer.
Swapped out the top cover with the 73. The 78 PO cut some trim off and gouged the heck out of that cover. Fixable, but I have a good one with the 73.
Rear bumper removed since the pic. Nice US bumper, but it's gotta go.
Swapped out the top cover with the 73. The 78 PO cut some trim off and gouged the heck out of that cover. Fixable, but I have a good one with the 73.
Rear bumper removed since the pic. Nice US bumper, but it's gotta go.
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NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
Looking good, going Euro bumpers?
They’re much more attractive, IMHO
- Thread starter
- #127
In 73 they all came with Euro style. They do look way better. US headlights, but I prefer them as well.
- Thread starter
- #128
Had a couple hours this afternoon to do something so I masked off the car for paint removal. That snowballed a bit.
The dark red spot is where the PO tested the Nissan red to match. Paint was pretty rough. Cracking everywhere like the deck lid. The PO said repeatedly the car sat in a car port. I think might be part of the story.
The trunk channel seal was pretty good, but pulling it up revealed water had gotten under the seal. It's pitted at the seam, but not lacy after wire wheeling. I think I can clean it, treat it, seal it and never leave it outside for years again and probably be fine.
The dark red spot is where the PO tested the Nissan red to match. Paint was pretty rough. Cracking everywhere like the deck lid. The PO said repeatedly the car sat in a car port. I think might be part of the story.
The trunk channel seal was pretty good, but pulling it up revealed water had gotten under the seal. It's pitted at the seam, but not lacy after wire wheeling. I think I can clean it, treat it, seal it and never leave it outside for years again and probably be fine.
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- Thread starter
- #129
I'm gonna say, based on very early evidence, the car port fell on the car. Maybe before the color change to bright red. The left quarter has a lap seam running down the top from the corner of the trunk opening to the door seam.
The right corner has had something pulled with a dent puller. Maybe a dent. Maybe pulling out a weld. I'll know as soon as I look from underneath. I still want to get the gutter clean before I unmask the trunk.
The right corner has had something pulled with a dent puller. Maybe a dent. Maybe pulling out a weld. I'll know as soon as I look from underneath. I still want to get the gutter clean before I unmask the trunk.
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- Thread starter
- #130
It looks to me that the filler is between the dark red and MAACO red.
Looks like you’re right
- Thread starter
- #132
It's weird the quarter has yellow paint on it. The hard top is not stock. The PO said they were known for blowing off. Seemed a strange thing to say.
I wonder if something fell on the top and crunched the panel the hard top sits on or if someone left the top loose and it wrecked that panel when it pulled up.
I wonder if something fell on the top and crunched the panel the hard top sits on or if someone left the top loose and it wrecked that panel when it pulled up.
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- Thread starter
- #133
Well, I can partly see why they repaired it the way they did. I still don't know what the repair was for.
I cleaned the channel and started a phosphoric acid treatment. This one happened to be POR-15 pre-treat. Once I was done making a mess I pulled back the masking, looked inside the quarter and saw nothing. Completely blind from the top well or trunk. I might be able to see more if I pull the fuel tank. Mostly I just need to see if I can cut and butt that lap joint.
Edit: I can get a finger in past the seal gutter and feel the lap joint has about an inch of overlap. I'll prolly cut it with a body saw and weld a flat butt joint. MIG maybe for a smaller heat effect area rather than TIG because I can't get behind it to planish.
I'm not sure what that panel between the top well and trunk is called, but I'm calling it a taint.
I cleaned the channel and started a phosphoric acid treatment. This one happened to be POR-15 pre-treat. Once I was done making a mess I pulled back the masking, looked inside the quarter and saw nothing. Completely blind from the top well or trunk. I might be able to see more if I pull the fuel tank. Mostly I just need to see if I can cut and butt that lap joint.
Edit: I can get a finger in past the seal gutter and feel the lap joint has about an inch of overlap. I'll prolly cut it with a body saw and weld a flat butt joint. MIG maybe for a smaller heat effect area rather than TIG because I can't get behind it to planish.
I'm not sure what that panel between the top well and trunk is called, but I'm calling it a taint.
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- Thread starter
- #134
Started working on the speeduino. Gave up on the IDC40 plug kit after I saw a video where a guy was complaining how terrible his experience was mostly centered around that plug. My components were testing good to that plug. One of the comments said that plug is to be used with a ribbon cable to a breakout. About $30 later I had 3 cables and a breakout. An hour after Bezos dropped it by my place for me I had TPS, CLT, and IAC. A little bit of playing with an o-scope and I'm pretty sure crank signal diagnoses is next.
Edit: I went to check the jumper pins and found I didn't solder the pins in and I had no jumpers. Apparently, there's things you're supposed to just know about PCBs. So now I have 100 jumpers and found a use for those extra pins I kept. The breakout is easy to wire and diagnose with. It doesn't fit in the box, but it's pretty functional for now.
Edit: I went to check the jumper pins and found I didn't solder the pins in and I had no jumpers. Apparently, there's things you're supposed to just know about PCBs. So now I have 100 jumpers and found a use for those extra pins I kept. The breakout is easy to wire and diagnose with. It doesn't fit in the box, but it's pretty functional for now.
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- Thread starter
- #135
Tail is all stripped. No new surprises other than bondo in the area under the bumper. The worst rust on the whole car so far is pretty minor.
- Thread starter
- #136
I pulled the fuel tank cover on the 73 and found there was access to the inner quarter, so I pulled the cover on the 78. I did the Fitzee cut and butt and the Carter Auto weld and grind method. I haven't spent much time with the hammer and dolly yet, but it's much better than the lap weld.
Passenger side had a lot of bondo worms inside. Got it pretty flat. Now have to weld all those holes without shrinking it too much.
Passenger side had a lot of bondo worms inside. Got it pretty flat. Now have to weld all those holes without shrinking it too much.
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- Thread starter
- #137
Mostly clean and red-free. No new surprises.
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- Thread starter
- #138
1st coat of primer. Ran out of product so I need to get stuff and apply that later in the week. Needs to be moving along. At least it's all one color.
Edit: updated with 2nd coat pics
Edit: updated with 2nd coat pics
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- Thread starter
- #139
Gonna have to see if I can live with the shiny primer. It shows a lot of metalworking sins, but I need to be blocking down a different car while I drive this one. So I put it back together.
Swapped over the early 14s.
73 bumpers on both ends took two 10mm nutserts, one captured nut punched out and a rubber plug removed.
Best of the 2 cars light buckets, lenses and trim. New trim plugs for the belt and rocker trim.
Both small mirrors are on.
Trunk is all put back together.
Deck lid and top tonneau are on. Working on the new etsy vinyl cover now. I can't recommend this part at all. Some are great. Some are not so much.
Always the same angles. Shop is tight with three cars.
Swapped over the early 14s.
73 bumpers on both ends took two 10mm nutserts, one captured nut punched out and a rubber plug removed.
Best of the 2 cars light buckets, lenses and trim. New trim plugs for the belt and rocker trim.
Both small mirrors are on.
Trunk is all put back together.
Deck lid and top tonneau are on. Working on the new etsy vinyl cover now. I can't recommend this part at all. Some are great. Some are not so much.
Always the same angles. Shop is tight with three cars.
- Thread starter
- #140
Only thing of real significance that got done this past weekend was truing the teeth on the crank trigger wheel. We cut the center hole with a cnc plasma. Thought it was pretty close checking it with a feeler guage, but I didn't trust it. So I pulled the pulley back off. I found one of the hole punches in my hydraulic hole puncher fit really well and the cup for that punch kept it square when bolted together. Set up a dial indicator, then sanded each tooth with a 80g die grinder roloc.
Found the lowest tooth and zeroed the indicator. The opposite side was .043 different. I marked the edges that needed to be trimmed yet and put a dot on the ones that I got to within .003 plus or minus. The specs on the hall effect sensor gap is 1.5mm nominal, which is .059 in black and white.my gap should vary from .056-.062 max.
After re-doing the grounds both coolant and air temp sensors read correctly. TPS reads well and is calibrated. Still no CKP signal to the laptop. I'm pretty confident I'm getting signal to the VR Conditioner, but no LEDs flashing. Reading a forum suggests cranking a hall effect without the VR conditioner jumpers set to hall can smoke the arduino. Good thing they're cheap. The really big problem with Tunerstudio ecus is the learning curve. I'm one late night interweb search from buying a terminator x.
Found the lowest tooth and zeroed the indicator. The opposite side was .043 different. I marked the edges that needed to be trimmed yet and put a dot on the ones that I got to within .003 plus or minus. The specs on the hall effect sensor gap is 1.5mm nominal, which is .059 in black and white.my gap should vary from .056-.062 max.
After re-doing the grounds both coolant and air temp sensors read correctly. TPS reads well and is calibrated. Still no CKP signal to the laptop. I'm pretty confident I'm getting signal to the VR Conditioner, but no LEDs flashing. Reading a forum suggests cranking a hall effect without the VR conditioner jumpers set to hall can smoke the arduino. Good thing they're cheap. The really big problem with Tunerstudio ecus is the learning curve. I'm one late night interweb search from buying a terminator x.
