For Sale 1966 FJ40 very clean with PTO Winch

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Hi guys, my buddy and I just finished a frame-off resto on this 66 FJ40.


http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8479/8219188735_f6b02d6c3b.jpg

We did the paint ourselves, and we don't plan on winning any awards for beauty, but we used good-quality epoxy primer. All the nooks and crannies that the spray wouldn't reach were then carefully covered with the epoxy by hand, and we finished it with single-stage acrylic enamel mixed to the factory color code of Horizon Blue. We used almost no body filler, intending the paint job to be functional rather than cosmetic, which it is.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8061/8219186485_c6d91f1e98.jpg

MODS & FEATURES:

2F from a 1978 FJ40

4-speed transmission from the same FJ

Original 3-speed (10-spline) transfer case coupled to the 4-speed using the Seamaster adapter, giving extra-low ratio in low-range

Modified T-Case shift pattern allows selction of low-range indepently from 4WD (using mostly stock linkage and the shift lever out of the 78)

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8350/8219173363_e48e84a9df.jpg

2" Body Lift (the tub wouldn't clear the longer length of this new combo without it)

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8338/8220257040_1af31b0be0.jpg

New Drivelines (also necessitated by the new tranny combo) including PTO driveline

Oh, yeah: Factory PTO Winch, refurbished, re-sealed, and in perfect working condition!!!

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8206/8220253662_3059f983e4.jpg

Warn locking rear hubs (Dana 60 hubs) in the 1-ton full-floating rear end (with chromoly axle shafts), which means...

brace yourselves...

You can use low-range to drive the Winch. Yep. Think about it.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8349/8219173279_1a63d05ba1.jpg

We would have preferred the original carburetor, but alas... We put on a Carter YFA single-barrel (195cfm from what I can gather from the web), and it runs good and starts reliably even when cold but it could have more power probably with a different carb. Actually, if you want a different carb we'll put it on for you. If you're serious, I'll try to accommodate pretty much anything you want for this ol' girl.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8200/8219172233_0a27af6048.jpg

4-core aluminum radiator

Electric water pump conversion (pump is rebuildable - awesome.)

Electric fan (with switch on dash to disable, and warning light when disabled)

Note the front axles have ball & claw joints (not Birfield) and they've been gone through and have new seals and felts.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8344/8220276318_f9692d8766.jpg

New brake shoes all around (including park brake on T-Case), and serviced all slave cylinders.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8337/8219175449_911d705b90.jpg

Fiberglass top has been restored, by sanding away the old UV-damaged Gel Coat, reactivating with MEK and applying fresh new marine grade Gel Coat. I'm not an artist here, but hey - that just added 50 more years to the roof top, boys.

Dual Batteries

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8065/8219175583_0c59dfd474.jpg

300-Amp Alternator (GM CS style, had to bypass Ameter and install charge light on the dash)

Fully transistorized ignition, with advance-retard control on the dash. No more pinging on bad gas, fellas.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8485/8220253910_cf6b304763.jpg

See the full photostream here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/78422055@N08/sets/72157632099427939

And see the YouTube video here:
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/O3hz_Wm89R0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Or Click here: http://youtu.be/O3hz_Wm89R0

INQUIRIES:
Call Jalil at (206) 225-4350

Asking $25,000
That's about how much we spent on the resto which took over a year, so it's a pretty good deal for you.
Ready to hear all offers.
 
thats the way all ads should be
BemSN.gif


GLWS
 
What a fine assortment of upgrades you have put in there. A few questions:

1. What size tires are you running on it now and, with the gearings you have put in, what are the final ratios?

2. What is that through-floor stick-and-knob to the left of the shifters???????

3. Golly, no power steering? I would have hoped that would be mod #1.

and, finally.....

4. With all that other great work, why-oh-why no SOA???

Best answer I can come up with to my last two questions is I guess it's so whoever buys her can make some final alterations.

Nice job! Wish I'd dare take it off road!
 
Last edited:
PTO - of course. Wish I had one of those...though not on the 3B-powered BJ40; rather, the 6.4 F-350 or, even better, the new-to-me-tomorrow good old 7.3 in a 4X4 E-350! REALLY excited about this newest addition to the fleet....

<Hijack out>
 
It's a good looking truck, for sure. I like that color of blue... a lot.

Warn locking rear hubs (Dana 60 hubs) in the 1-ton full-floating rear end (with chromoly axle shafts), which means...

brace yourselves...

You can use low-range to drive the Winch. Yep. Think about it.

I've been thinking about it. What's so great about that? Since the shear pin is the weak point of the PTO winch, what's the point of winching in low range, without the wheels turning?

I think the paint looks fine from here. It's a cruiser, it shouldn't be perfect.

Dan
 
It's me, Joe

We painted it as close to the original color as possible (Horizontal blue, Horizon Blue, Fluorite Blue)
Front and rear final drive is 4.11:1 No power steering, no brake booster. I used a 95 Toyota power box on my 69, the Saginaw setups are a kludge and ruin your frame....forever. Plus it takes the same real estate as the PTO. The shear pins are are not likely to fail during pull, there is way to much advantage with the worm gear but it does keep the winch from breaking itself. Many have replaced the u-joints with Corolla spiders as they do fit but, these are case hardened steel cups not bronze as they were equipped (Again, to keep the expensive hierarchy of parts from breaking) We went with original where we could. The chrome on all of the badges and emblems was beyond repair, re-chroming requires caustic removal and the zinc loses the battle immediately...so we passed on the reproduction ones that anybody can buy and just frosted them with a sandblaster so the powdercoat would bite. They've been on the truck before man had walked on the moon, a Mustang GT had just came into existence, we let them stay. That's why we left the drum brakes and the ball and claw joints....this truck was punished by me and god knows who before, and I've popped some birfields in my day like a lot of you....when I washed these parts off and scrutinized them, their condition was flat-out remarkable....I was happy to put them back in, to hell with over axle stuff and four wheel calipers....This was going to be the one cruiser I wasn't going to attack with the impetuousness of a teenager with a Man a Fre catalog. We'll leave that to the new owner. Of course we did manage to spoil much of the purity of this rig here in many areas. I have never had any use for a semi-floating axle. Ford nine inch maybe. I would have loved original looking wheels and caps....but we drained the budget. We went to town on everything else, we have a Costanza wallet stack of receipts. Every bearing, bushing, seal, and boot that wasn't perfect was replaced. If we couldn't find something we had it made. Flywheel was ground and the clutch components are all new...We went nuts. I even leather wrapped the steering wheel and sand casted a horn button from some old piston scrap. Sewed the seats myself. While I was making stuff I built some step bars. I'm not satisfied unless my work looks as close to manufactured as possible. Made the tail light brackets too. Just click the links and check out the pictures. Thank you all for the feedback. :steer:
 
Watch that belt tensioner....you probably already know. My former boss and I were halfway to Anchorage when his 7.3 let loose. That 13' serpentine wrapped around the fan, ripped the alternator harness and busted the trans cooler lines in one spectacular nest of he11. The Ford recall policies were awful back then.
 
The mileage on the 2F is unknown but it meets the minimal benchmark of compression and is close enough through all the cylinders to be mechanically acceptable. Thrust, cylinder walls, end play on the rotating assembly and the block were measured with a mic and or examined. No tailpipe indicators of trouble when cold or at operating temperature.....although I really wanted to go one step lean on the metering rod, but nobody can get them anymore...the performer Edelbrock jets will fit but the available orifices would need to be shaved a bit with a drill. That would be the wrong approach anyway because we don't want to change our overall jet throughout the range, just the idle to low speed transition. I have a part number and everything for the rod I need, but nobody has one. So here's to the new owner putting on what they want (maybe TBI) or just by luck they will live close to sea level and it turns out fine.
 
How many miles on the 2F ?

was the t-case rebuilt?

new clutch?

thx,tim
T-case wasn't rebuilt, but all seals were replaced. Everything else looked good, but please read my partner's responses above - he's the expert. (FJoe40).

The clutch is new, and the flywheel has been re-surfaced.

Yeah, the idea was that there would be some room for further tinkering & customization on the part of the happy new owner, but she's ready for the trail right now. Her first mud is going to be exhilerating for you, every single thing inside outside and underneath looks brand-spanking new and perfectly spotless.
 
Last edited:
Roof restored ?

Would you please give me the process again on the roof's repair. What type of products with spelled-out names please - Very nice rig. I have a 1970 FJ40 that needs some roof repair. Thank you!


[URL="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8479/8219188735_f6b02d6c3b.jpg"][/URL]

We did the paint ourselves, and we don't plan on winning any awards for beauty, but we used good-quality epoxy primer. All the nooks and crannies that the spray wouldn't reach were then carefully covered with the epoxy by hand, and we finished it with single-stage acrylic enamel mixed to the factory color code of Horizon Blue. We used almost no body filler, intending the paint job to be functional rather than cosmetic, which it is.

[URL="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8061/8219186485_c6d91f1e98.jpg"][/URL]

MODS & FEATURES:

2F from a 1978 FJ40

4-speed transmission from the same FJ

Original 3-speed (10-spline) transfer case coupled to the 4-speed using the Seamaster adapter, giving extra-low ratio in low-range

Modified T-Case shift pattern allows selction of low-range indepently from 4WD (using mostly stock linkage and the shift lever out of the 78)

[URL="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8350/8219173363_e48e84a9df.jpg"][/URL]

2" Body Lift (the tub wouldn't clear the longer length of this new combo without it)

[URL="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8338/8220257040_1af31b0be0.jpg"][/URL]

New Drivelines (also necessitated by the new tranny combo) including PTO driveline

Oh, yeah: Factory PTO Winch, refurbished, re-sealed, and in perfect working condition!!!

[URL="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8206/8220253662_3059f983e4.jpg"][/URL]

Warn locking rear hubs (Dana 60 hubs) in the 1-ton full-floating rear end (with chromoly axle shafts), which means...

brace yourselves...

You can use low-range to drive the Winch. Yep. Think about it.

[URL="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8349/8219173279_1a63d05ba1.jpg"][/URL]

We would have preferred the original carburetor, but alas... We put on a Carter YFA single-barrel (195cfm from what I can gather from the web), and it runs good and starts reliably even when cold but it could have more power probably with a different carb. Actually, if you want a different carb we'll put it on for you. If you're serious, I'll try to accommodate pretty much anything you want for this ol' girl.

[URL="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8200/8219172233_0a27af6048.jpg"][/URL]

4-core aluminum radiator

Electric water pump conversion (pump is rebuildable - awesome.)

Electric fan (with switch on dash to disable, and warning light when disabled)

Note the front axles have ball & claw joints (not Birfield) and they've been gone through and have new seals and felts.

[URL="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8344/8220276318_f9692d8766.jpg"][/URL]

New brake shoes all around (including park brake on T-Case), and serviced all slave cylinders.

[URL="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8337/8219175449_911d705b90.jpg"][/URL]

Fiberglass top has been restored, by sanding away the old UV-damaged Gel Coat, reactivating with MEK and applying fresh new marine grade Gel Coat. I'm not an artist here, but hey - that just added 50 more years to the roof top, boys.

Dual Batteries

[URL="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8065/8219175583_0c59dfd474.jpg"][/URL]

300-Amp Alternator (GM CS style, had to bypass Ameter and install charge light on the dash)

Fully transistorized ignition, with advance-retard control on the dash. No more pinging on bad gas, fellas.

[URL="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8485/8220253910_cf6b304763.jpg"][/URL]

See the full photostream here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/78422055@N08/sets/72157632099427939

And see the YouTube video here:
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/O3hz_Wm89R0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Or Click here: http://youtu.be/O3hz_Wm89R0

INQUIRIES:
Call Jalil at (206) 225-4350

Asking $25,000
That's about how much we spent on the resto which took over a year, so it's a pretty good deal for you.
Ready to hear all offers.[/QUOTE]
 
MichaelArchangel, thanks for your interest!

The Roof was repaired as follows:
1) Remove steel skirt from front by drilling out rivets
2) Sand entire thing down until all UV-damaged gel coat is removed. In our case, there were not many spots where we had to go all the way down to the cloth, but there were a few. You will know when you've gone deep enough because the gel coat will no longer feel powdery (will tend to polish) and you won't see any more cracks.
3)
4) Paint the steel skirt, and re-attach with new rivets
5) Re-activate the roof by wiping with a rag soaked with MEK, and apply new gel coat.

In our case, we applied the new gel coat as follows:
- We used Evercoat Marine Gel-Kote (http://www.amazon.com/Evercoat-Poly...7543&sr=8-8&keywords=evercoat+marine+gel+coat). A couple of things to keep in mind: this product is available in white or clear. It is best to get the white. This product has a "one-step" version which may be easier to apply with brushes/rollers, but I like to use the air-inhibited type because it's easy to spray additional coats.

- Mask your painted steel surfaces very carefully, as the gel coat will lift the paint as effectively as aircraft stripper. Even the fumes are dangerous to painted surfaces.

- Thin the product with Styrene. This is difficult to find, but usually your local marine repair shop can get it for you. We thinned it 50/50 in order to spray it from a HVLP gun with a 2mm orifice. You can thin it less if you have a larger orifice, and Evercoat recommends spraying from a 4mm orifice.

- We brought the temperature of the shop down to 65 degrees F, in order to give more working time. We mixed the activator at a ratio of 10 drops per ounce of product (2 oz of thinned product). Be careful to mix very thoroughly, scraping the sides and bottom of your mixing cup.

- We mixed 4 oz at a time (giving 8 oz of thinned product in the cup) which, when spraying from a 2mm orifice at about 20psi took about 2 minutes to empty the cup. Remember the product starts curing the moment you add the activator, so don't mix too much at one time.

- Between cups we thoroughly cleaned the gun with MEK followed by acetone, being very careful to clear out all the acetone before adding more mixed product. You must work quickly during this step, to prevent small amounts of the product from kicking in your gun

- There is no need to worry about flash times with the air-inhibited gel coat. The amount of time it takes to clean the gun, mix another 4 oz and start shooting again is sufficient. The product remains tacky and active as long as it is in contact with the air, so you can shoot another coat any time you're ready.

- By holding the gun very close to the surface we were able to fill up the rain gutters, making a good, thick, durable seal between the steel gutters and the fiberglass roof top. The gel coat is formulated for anti-sag, so doesn't run easily. Feel free to lay it on thick.

- Once desired coverage is achieved, you will need to spray the whole thing with PVA mold release, in order to get the surface to completely cure. Take plenty of time cleaning your gun before putting the mold release into it: it reacts very poorly with any of the chemicals you use for thinning and cleaning. The gun must be perfectly clean. The wax was too thick for our 2mm orifice, which made the spraying slow and hard to see, but you don't have any time limit here so relax and take your time.

- Turn the heat up to 75 or 80, then give the whole thing 24 hours to cure, and wash the wax off with soap and water.
 
im in the market for a 40 and this is above my budget....but good god this truck is beautiful.
 

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