- Thread starter
- #21
Here are some photos of this beauty. Someone in her lifetime added throttle body EFI which works reasonably well, but it a bit cobbled together. More photos in a second...
1966 FJ operation
- Thread starter BIGTOM
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #22
There is a brass tag attached to the VIN plate which says T-66. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ That crazy looking gauge is attached to the EFI which also has an O2 sensor plumber into the exhaust. Hand valve to turn prevent the coolant to circulate through the heater core? Maybe a leaky core?
- Thread starter
- #23
Clear lenses up front and I’m sure aftermarket red lenses in rear. The floors are in rough shape, so my goal is to just replace the tub I think. This is going to be a driver and I’m not too concerned with 100% originality, but will be mostly original. With this FJ40 they included a complete other style top (with ambulance doors etc), a couple of springs, and another steering wheel. I’d like to upgrade the brakes to power drum bc I’m not going to be doing crazy water crossings if I can help it and another FJ40 owner said he has power drums and they work great. I’m almost 100% positive I’ll need to rebuild the wheel cylinders and I’d like advice on a different power brake booster/master cylinder due to the brakes being the first order of business at this time.
- Thread starter
- #24
Definitely going to make that a priority. Rear wheel wells were “rebuilt” with fiberglass too.
- Thread starter
- #26
Frame is good. I’ll snap some photos of that too - with all the piecing together of misc body panels, I just thought a used tub would be better. That way there’s no fit issues. I’ll take more detailed shots of the interior too and you fine folks can just weigh in and tell me if I’m crazy or whatever.
New tub? I thought that the mid 60s models were narrower for the original 40 hard top?
thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
Those older tubs are supposed to have the best steel. If just a few patches are needed, I’d opt to keep the thicker steel, weld in patch panels. 53 year old tub and she still ain’t in too bad a shape. Media blast’er and make a decision once you see bare metal. 
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
VIN puts production in June of 65. Probably one of the last corrugated hard models. Before 66 the top was changed and vent in the windshield replaced with one in the cowl.
- Thread starter
- #30
Those older tubs are supposed to have the best steel. If just a few patches are needed, I’d opt to keep the thicker steel, weld in patch panels. 53 year old tub and she still ain’t in too bad a shape. Media blast’er and make a decision once you see bare metal.
Great point. Even better advice. Thanks!
oregon fj
Serial rescuer of old vehicles
If you are going to stay with drums like I did, I question the need for power. After rebuilding mine, the stock non-power drums work great. I see no need for power. For a daily driver, I'd convert to dual circuit brakes, but I'm not sold on the need for adding a booster.
- Thread starter
- #32
These wheel cylinders are expensive. Any word on rebuild kits? Also any/all advice on power brake booster would be much appreciated. I’d like to keep
Did you rebuild the wheel cylinders or buy new? I’m trying to determine if it’s better to buy new or spend a little time and rebuild what I’ve got. I just want to be able to stop. I’d like to freeway drive, so still interested in exploring power brake booster for feasibility.
Did you rebuild the wheel cylinders or buy new? I’m trying to determine if it’s better to buy new or spend a little time and rebuild what I’ve got. I just want to be able to stop. I’d like to freeway drive, so still interested in exploring power brake booster for feasibility.
oregon fj
Serial rescuer of old vehicles
Rebuild kits for the wheel cylinders are available, and are affordable. But you have to have good cores to rebuild. If the cylinder bores are rusty and/or pitted, rebuild won't work. The adjusters need to be free and not seized as well. Otherwise you'll need to bite the new cylinder bullet.
Again, w/o power assist my 4 drums are capable of locking up the wheels from highway speed. Don't know why I'd want more than that. I've got plenty of stopping power. I don't see any advantage to adding a booster if the brakes are dialed in and working correctly.
Again, w/o power assist my 4 drums are capable of locking up the wheels from highway speed. Don't know why I'd want more than that. I've got plenty of stopping power. I don't see any advantage to adding a booster if the brakes are dialed in and working correctly.
- Thread starter
- #35
Well, I’ll pull the wheels hopefully tomorrow and check things out. I’m reasonably sure it’ll need new master cylinders bc mind look rusty and grimey. Where can I find wheel cylinders and master cylinders?
- Thread starter
- #36
Where’d you get your wheel cylinders?
That is rust, specifically, inside of the bores of your master cylinder and wheel cylinders that you need to be concerned about. It happens because of contaminated brake fluid. Basically, you clean out the bores with abrasives (a stone tool that fits on a drill, or green scotch brite, or really fine sandpaper) if you have no pits when you are done, then your core is good. Rebuild kit is available from Specter Off Road, and others, probably.
Nice find! A truck that old is a labor of love. And as you already know you can’t just wander down to any old parts store and get parts. Some are totally no longer available, so good used is your only option. So carefully evaluate everything you think you may replace and think first whether it can be fixed to work as-is. And try that first. Good luck
Very very cool rig !
