1964 FJ45 LB “RB1” Project (1 Viewer)

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No pictures but I modified the 700r4 with a TCI lockup wiring harness. Transmission not yet installed in the chassis, so wanted to do this with the trans pan up, just makes it easier. The modified harness will allow lockup in 2nd, 3rd and OD. An adjustable vacuum switch mounted on the engine controls when the lockup occurs. I'll also will install a dash switch that will disable the lockup so I also have the option to turn it off.

Started drilling holes in the bed for the flares. All holes go into the wheel well area or below the bed floor so no holes go into the cargo area. Flares were a bit long so trimmed a little off each end. Post #660 shows them clamped on and you can see they extend below the bed side. I might end up having to get ones a little wider, but I like the way these look on the 45. Good enough for now.

Waiting for machine work to be finished up on the engine. Really hoping to have the drivetrain in the chassis within a couple weeks.
 
No engine yet.
Bolted the Toybox to the Orion over the weekend.
Ran into several issues in getting the right fasteners that work with this combo.

1. The stock bolts for bolting the tcase to the toybox adapter are too long. Solution was to make thick flat washers to resolve this. Washers are 1/4" thick.

2. Needed to modify the stock bolt's diameter which passes close to the idler cluster. The bolt supplied with the Orion kit was a 7/16" whereas the toybox adapter was threaded for m12 x 1.25 or for stock bolt/thread size. Necked down the m12 bolts diameter match the modified 7/16" bolt supplied with the Orion.

3. Lower bolt position which is accessed at the lower PTO cover is actually a stud on the Toybox adapter. The Orion kit supplies a Allen head bolt for this location to clear the idler cluser gear. Of course this won't work with the Toybox stud. The 17mm nut can be threaded onto the stud but there is no room for a socket or wrench. A 15mm across flats nut allows a very thin wall socket to be used to tighten the this nut. Solution was to take a m12 x 1.25 JIS nut which has 17mm across the flats and then "machine" the nut's flats down so it was now 15mm across the flats. Now a socket can be used, barely. Also made a thicj flatwasher for this stud as part of the stud shoulder protruded into the Orion. The washer had to be trimmed to fit past the idler gear teeth.

For the Toybox stud, another solution may have been to use a 12 point nut. ARP makes a m12 x 1.25 12-point nut that uses a 14mm wrench/socket. This was going to be my "plan B" if the 15mm 6-point didn't work. In my tool box, my 15mm 6-point socket has a smaller overall diameter than my 14mm 12-point socket so that's why I went with 15mm route.

All very tedious and time consuming but its now bolted together.

Mounted the Toybox/Orion in the chassis with the custom crossmember. Will bolt up the transmission next and continue to wait for the engine work to be finished up at the machine shop.
 
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Holy crap, what an amazing build. Amazing work on the 45, I may have missed it, but are you still planning on a SBC in that beauty?
 
Holy crap, what an amazing build. Amazing work on the 45, I may have missed it, but are you still planning on a SBC in that beauty?

Thanks Ctenosaurian,
Yes, putting in a SBC. Waiting for the machine work to be finished on the block. Seemed I picked a shop that's very busy but I trust their work.
 
Transmission bolted up to the Toybox.

Short block back from the machine shop 2 weeks ago.
Made up a skid plate for the oil pan, welded it on.
Painted the block and pan.
Install the oil pump, pickup, and oil pan.
Install the fuel pump rod, fuel pump plate, and fuel pump.
Install the oil filter adapter and oil filter.
Install the motor mounts.
Heads were brand new but needed to be surfaced. They were out by about .007"
Once I got them back, I bolted down the heads with new ARP bolts.
Removed the engine from the stand and install the flexplate.
Dropped the engine into the chassis and bolted it up.

Have some more things to do to complete the engine:
-lifters, push rods, rockers.
-valve covers
-intake
-exhaust manifolds
-carb
-air cleaner

A few pics, top end just sitting there, but heads are bolted down.

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found an old hi-torque starter I had. Took it apart and cleaned it up:

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flares bolted to the bed.
ends trimmed to not hang below the bed sides.

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Mike
I see yo have gotten over your flu, good it has been a bad season for that, and plenty of assembly work
it looks good to see you progressing. Skip
 
Busy summer....

But have gotten some time on the 45.
Visited a Pick-and-Pull. Got the 700r4 4x4 inspect cover. Also picked up all pullies, accessory brackets, and a big clutch fan. Diameter is 19+ inches and has 7 large rigid blades. Decided to run v-belts for now since this setup looks like it will work pretty well on the 45 and might also allow room for an engine driven air compressor when/if I ever get around to that....
The engine is just about completed.
Top end is together. Rockers and pushrods installed. Intake bolted down. Valve covers, carb and air cleaner installed.
Coolant return figured out (vortec heads and manifold - that was a pain)
Distributor stabbed, and wire looms installed. Still need to terminate at Distributor
Acellerator pedal and cable installed, TV cable installed, but need to remake pedal bracket - too much flex. Made the throttle and TV cable bracket for this setup.
Working on the engine accessories, brackets and drive belts but just about done with this part.
Radiator mount modified for steering clearance and for trans cooler mount. (had to move the radiator about 5 times before I finally got it in the right place. That fan is big and the Champion radiator is kind of squatty so didn't leave much room for error.)
Fan shroud built (twice) :doh:
Radiator, trans cooler, and shroud mounted.
Radiator hoses cut and fit.
Heater hoses cut and fit
Heater valve mounted on firewall and hoses cut and fit.
Exhaust headers mounted, exhaust construction begun
Steering column modified and sector shaft lenghtened (wasn't working with exhaust, no clearance, now looks like it should be good)
Also had to move engine to the right about an inch (that sucked) :frown:

All in all, making progress but this is slow and tedious work.

Still need to make the gas tank, battery tray, and do all wiring.
Still need final body work, prep and paint. And a long list of other things....
 
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A recent picture just for kicks...I know we all like pictures.

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First picture is the Steering column lenghtened
Second pic shows the spud shaft (left side) I had to add to the steering gear in order to get some additional clearance for the exhaust. This is an Advance Adapters piece.
Third pic is the shroud, 1st attempt. After this pic, it was taken apart and redone in order to make the opening larger. :doh:

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Mike
Welcome back I knew you would come up from under that rock you were hiding under. Anyhow You are speaking to the a person that knows it takes time and a lot of it when it comes to the finish. The stuff you have done sense I last was over looks top drawer as usual, I am sure this heat has slowed you down it sure has me... Skip
 
Third pic is the shroud, 1st attempt. After this pic, it was taken apart and redone in order to make the opening larger. :doh:

Practice makes perfect :D. I'm always looking at what I've done and thinking it will be better if/when next time. Good to hear from you.
 
Yeah, its not uncommon for me to make something more than once before I'm happy with it.

Following your build Gus, great work. Amazing what you can do with some hand tools and a vice. :)
 
Got a couple things done this past weekend between the yard work and errands:
-Shocks installed
-Fan belts purchased and installed
-Started on power steering hose routing/id fittings needed
 

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