$1800 quote to fix AC (2 Viewers)

[CruiseOrlando]

For reference, here's a thread I had a while ago on other A/C related issues. It outlines the details on the flush I used, as well as other good info on the amount of charge to put in the system, etc. If you're looking for more information about A/C work on these trucks, it's a good quick read:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/529409-c-drier-does-short-drier-change-r134-charge.html

 

[CruiseOrlando]

I found some R134A at Big Lots for $5 a can.

One other note on this - don't buy 134 with oil in it... you should measure the oil in your system and only put the right amount in there. Dumping in 134 w/oil is just a bad idea in my opinion.

 

[Coolstream]

First off, it's rare for a 10P17c to come apart and shed debris into the system. If we were talking Ford FS10, GM R4 of any scroll compressor, I'd certainly be concerned about contamination. Since the condenser is first in line downstream from the compressor, that's the first thing I'd check for debris. To get to the evaporator, it has to get through the drier, which isn't that easy, unless the damage is severe. It's remotely possible the dessicant bag in the drier could rupture and move the debris and beads into the liquid line, expansion block and evaporator, but I've only seen that happen one time on a Toyota. Since the pressures are off, do you know if they were able to put a full charge of refrigerant in? Purely a guess, but if the condenser were plugged enough that they couldn't get a full charge in, that would result in the kind of pressure readings that you're seeing.
FWIW: all the parts in the A/C system, excluding the liquid lines and hoses are <$700.

 

[CruiseOrlando]

^^^^

Better advise....

I'd always imagined a compressor 'blowing up' into the evaporator.

 

[john_eckels]

Here is a great guide on removing the evaporator

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...-cooling-unit-evaporator-expansion-valve.html

 

[NBender]

Coolstream - Thanks for the input. I'm glad you chimed in. I'm not sure if they were able to put a full charge on the system. I'll call and ask. Would undercharging of the system also result in the compressor seizing as observed? What about insufficient oil in the compressor? The mechanic said there was "some". Checking the condenser for debris makes a lot of sense to me. I was actually thinking that would be fairly straight forward to do if I was going to replace the highside o-ring and drier anyway. What's a good way to go about checking it? Would there be things to look for on the highside and drier side connection points that would indicate debris? What would cause there to be debris in the consenser other than a failing compressor? I was also thinking that find debris while flushing the evaporator would be pretty definitive proof that the entire system was kaput. On the other hand, a clean evaporator wouldn't rule out the condenser being clogged. Also, I did my fair amount of research on Mud before taking it to the dealership so I already had heard of you and the prices you offer. I had to hold my tongue when the service rep showed me the list of parts and the associated prices. They were all at least double what you charge. You've got my money if and when I decide to tackle this. Do you sell the compressor/clutch as a complete unit? Lastly, what do you think about my plan to just replace the highside o-ring and drier (plus associated o-rings), check/flush the condenser and then see what happens?

John - Thanks for the link. I've read that thread before and I read it again last night a little more carefully...

CruiseOrlando - Thanks for the link to your thread with additional info about the flush. One more reason I really need an air compressor! I'll more than likely let a shop handle the evac and recharge though.

 

[NBender]

I tried to spin the compressor by hand tonight by rotating the pressure plate with the engine off. It spun, but not very well. It was pretty tight and had a rough feel to it. Is this a pretty good sign that the compressor is toast?

 

[1972FJ55]

I tried to spin the compressor by hand tonight by rotating the pressure plate with the engine off. It spun, but not very well. It was pretty tight and had a rough feel to it. Is this a pretty good sign that the compressor is toast?

Not necessarily. By spinning the hub, you're making the compressor pump, which does take some amout of force. I just spun mine and it does take a bit to spin it. If by chance your system is overcharged, the force needed would be greater. One thing we know is that your compressor is pumping, otherwise, we'd never see 350+ psi on the high-side.

This could be a multi-problem situation, possibly something like a partially plugged condenser in conjncton with a failing expansion block.

 

[NBender]

One thing we know is that your compressor is pumping, otherwise, we'd never see 350+ psi on the high-side.

Good point.

The mechanic told me he discharged the system after he found the leak and saw that the compressor was seizing. Although, there is still some refrigerant visible in the sight glass (about 1/4 full) so I don't think it is fully discharged.

Do you think replacing the condenser, receiver/drier, expansion block and new seals is a reasonable course of action given the symptoms? How often is it that the compressor also needs replacement? It isn't showing signs of leakage. My LC has about 180,000 miles on it to give you an idea of the wear.

 

[Offroads4x4]

Sounds like he should of replaced the dryer and O ring then some refrigerant oil for the compressor and recharged the system.
With it low the clutch won't lock/engage thus they can say your compressor is toast when all it needs is a O ring and a full charge.
Get a second opinion before you start spending $1800. Tell them you think it's leaking at the O ring and if thats the case you'd want the dryer replaced as well. Don't tell them your $ quote for the repair from the dealer.
Then ask them what do they think it will take to fix it. You may be surprised at how low it is since you have a working knowledge of A/C system.

Just an idea or two.

 

[busmup808]

Wow, i just read your whole article and very impressed with the people who chimed in. When I 1st moved to WA in 08 from HI, it was like night and day. Just cold and more cold.

I bought my LC in 04-04-09. Took it in to the a/c shop to get fixed because my wife was pregnant and the news said we were going to have a hot summer. Well when we went back to pickup the truck, the a/c shop said everything was shot. Total to fix was $1600. I told my wife, fac dat. I'll spend the money on my new born son.

Coming from Hawaii, when we roll our windows down we call it Hawaiian air. The air to us still feels like a/c till this day and it's been 5 years living here in WA. Good luck with your a/c. Aloha

 

[NBender]

Offroads4x4 - Thanks for the ideas. There's no way I'd spend $1800 to fix it. That was dealership parts and labor pricing. I think when I get around to repairing it I'll just order the parts from Coolstream and do the work myself and have a shop discharge, evacuate and recharge the system for me. Based on the info at hand I think there's a pretty good chance the condenser is also blocked. They are a lowpoint in the system and tend to collect debris. I thought about trying to flush it but at $125 for a new a new DENSO I'm inclined to just put a new one in. I plan to replace the expansion valve as well since I will be removing and cleaning the cooling unit while the system is open. My only dilema now is whether or not to replace or rebuild the compressor too. I'd hate to replace the drier, o-rings, expansion valve and condensor only to have the compressor go out soon after. I just need to research how often compressors need to be replaced/rebuilt.

busmup808 - I know what you mean about the cold weather here. The heat generated by my cooling system gets pumped into my cab almost daily. A/C in Western WA is definitely a "nice to have" and not a "need to have" like in other parts of the country!