RFB
97 FZJ80 LIFTED SC DUAL BATTERIES,37s
Does anyone thats swapped In the 150AMP alternator have any real pics of the 1/2Gu wire and 200 amp fuse setup they used. Im curious if the old fuseable link wire remains from alternator to fuse boxs
150 AMP alternator upgrade (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter RFB
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if you relay, relay need 200 amp then go with it , I personal do not see reasons why 80 amp will do the same even better on some options, why so. 200 amp will not run well with stock pulley you need smaller pulley to give same output. I did experimented with 200 too much problems switch back to 80 amp, so just curious why you need 200 amp what is the real need to big power output?
winching is the only real amp gobbler......and if you simply run a spare batt. and take breaks to let the 80amper play catchup you should be fine with stock alternator.
1st layer of a warn 8000 winch draws 80amps....up to 8000lbs. once you hit layer 2- it jumps to 200amp draw and you simply need to take a short break if you are running a single batt vs dual battery.
1st layer of a warn 8000 winch draws 80amps....up to 8000lbs. once you hit layer 2- it jumps to 200amp draw and you simply need to take a short break if you are running a single batt vs dual battery.
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RFB
97 FZJ80 LIFTED SC DUAL BATTERIES,37s
- Thread starter
- #4
Ok so I have a 150AMp alternator and the entire kit from @Photoman Im simply asking if anyone has a pic of how they UPPED the wire to a 200amp fuse. I just want to see it before I tear it all down. I run 2 odyssey extremes 1500s and a 100 watt inverter/charger a dual ARB compressor and a 45 quart fridge so Im upgrading the stock 1997 alternator just looking for pics of anyone thats already done it.
mehbohdi
SILVER Star
Just a simple question? Wish I could help, I'm sure some one can answer a simple question.
I am in the same stage you are except single battery and I went with a 130amp. I just purchased (arriving tomorrow sometime) a 140amp breaker that I plan to use in place of the fuseable link. I am upgrading the cable from the alternator to the battery in this step and changing the positive battery post. if the 140amp breaker works then I will post up some pictures for you to see how I set it up. The idea is that I can always upgrade the breaker easy enough later on if I need to, and when the bank recovers from the cost of the Photoman upgrade then I will pull the trigger on the Fourrunner upgraded cables.
I am planning to model mine after post #3 here with the exception of using a breaker in place of a fuse.
I am planning to model mine after post #3 here with the exception of using a breaker in place of a fuse.
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
OK, if I have this right the OP does not have a 200 amp alternator, it is 150 amps.
Cable 2/0 is ok direct from b+ on alternator to battery, if you want to use a fuse then get a simple cube fuse on the battery terminal, but as the fuse is there to protect the cable, you should choose a fuse rated LOWER than the cable, but capable of handling 150 from the alternator, note most fuses have an element of surge capability.
Regards
Dave
Cable 2/0 is ok direct from b+ on alternator to battery, if you want to use a fuse then get a simple cube fuse on the battery terminal, but as the fuse is there to protect the cable, you should choose a fuse rated LOWER than the cable, but capable of handling 150 from the alternator, note most fuses have an element of surge capability.
Regards
Dave
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
Something wrong there my friend, you fit a cable to cover the maximum output of the alternator, so 180 amp cable would be plenty and a 160 fuse would cover the altetnator output AND protect the cable in the event of a short.
If you are fitting a 200 amp fuse to protect the cable, then the cable must be capable of carrying around 250 amps soooooo........
Regards
Dave
I didn't know that 150 amp rated alternator maxed at 150 amp. I was under the impression the amp out put is somewhat of a curve and that the 150 number is just the rating, and the amps could climb several amps higher depending on demand and rotations. For my current setup I installed a 130 amp rated alternator and currently have nothing to require that much load, however upgrading my cables with a 140 amp breaker for future loads. the cable is less than a meter long so I feel pretty good about a 4 gauge, but I may need to go up in size on the breaker I plan to use.
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
There is a lot of confusion surrounding alternators. The maximum rating should be what the unit is capable of supplying when the demand is there nothing more.
But remember the alternator should respond to demand immediately, for example you switch on your headlights, the alternator instantly knows electrical demand has risen and increases output accordingly, listen to your engine at idle, you will hear the idle change as load is supplied, the higher the load the lower the idle, obviously to a limit, if the alternator cannot meet that demand the battery charge starts to fall as it steps in to compensate............until it goes flat.
Something that is not obvious is alternators that have been 'tweaked ' to increase thier output, the trade off is less amperage available at idle, this is often offset by (wrongly) fitting smaller pulleys.
@clx16 most alternators are cabled direct to the battery or starter lead, fitting a 140 amp fuse or breaker will do nothing unless the cable rubs through or a serious failure of the alternator that shorts to earth, if the cables capability is low enough it will heat up and burn long before the fuse or breaker interrupts the flow of current.
Sorry I digress, so in a nutshell, cable for the maximum output possible, fit fuse to protect the cable.
Regards
Dave
But remember the alternator should respond to demand immediately, for example you switch on your headlights, the alternator instantly knows electrical demand has risen and increases output accordingly, listen to your engine at idle, you will hear the idle change as load is supplied, the higher the load the lower the idle, obviously to a limit, if the alternator cannot meet that demand the battery charge starts to fall as it steps in to compensate............until it goes flat.
Something that is not obvious is alternators that have been 'tweaked ' to increase thier output, the trade off is less amperage available at idle, this is often offset by (wrongly) fitting smaller pulleys.
@clx16 most alternators are cabled direct to the battery or starter lead, fitting a 140 amp fuse or breaker will do nothing unless the cable rubs through or a serious failure of the alternator that shorts to earth, if the cables capability is low enough it will heat up and burn long before the fuse or breaker interrupts the flow of current.
Sorry I digress, so in a nutshell, cable for the maximum output possible, fit fuse to protect the cable.
Regards
Dave
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DirtScaresMe
Trouble Maker
For constant use / low amperage items I'd vote for more battery storage. Also, batteries only charge so fast regardless of available charging current. For most lead acid deep cycles the last 30% of charge time takes almost as long as the first 70%, simply due to charge acceptance.
Different battery chemistry but look at rechargeable AA batteries hooked up to 120v AC house current with 20 AC amps available. Takes ~6 hours to charge. Batteries can only accept current so fast.
Different battery chemistry but look at rechargeable AA batteries hooked up to 120v AC house current with 20 AC amps available. Takes ~6 hours to charge. Batteries can only accept current so fast.
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
The reason battery charge times are limited is more an action of limited voltage, if you want a battery to accept a charge faster you can force it by upping the voltage however, the heat build up seriously shortens battery life.
Years ago it was not uncommon to use boost chargers on customers cars who had to wait for their wages to buy a new battery, dead flat to fully charged in an hour but the battery would heat and spill acid, it would give them a couple of days though.
Regards
Dave
Years ago it was not uncommon to use boost chargers on customers cars who had to wait for their wages to buy a new battery, dead flat to fully charged in an hour but the battery would heat and spill acid, it would give them a couple of days though.
Regards
Dave
