13-15 LX570 Headlights

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jjtrou2072

jjtrou2072

Joined
Jan 20, 2022
Threads
9
Messages
105
Location
North Georgia
From what I have read on the forum, I know some have luck refinishing them and that there are no good aftermarket solutions.
Mine are too far gone at this point after having been sanded and refinished a couple times already.

Before I spend way more money than I want to on OEM replacements, I wanted to ask and make sure there are no good aftermarket solutions for 13-15 LX570 headlights?

I know some folks have used Teq Customs but it looks like they don't have any options for my make/model.
 
post some pics, what are you doing to “refinish” them? I wet sanded mine and then cleared it with 2K spray max clear and it has a hardener in it that’ll last a couple years. It’s as close to automotive clear in a can as you can get.
 
FxFormat said:
post some pics, what are you doing to “refinish” them? I wet sanded mine and then cleared it with 2K spray max clear and it has a hardener in it that’ll last a couple years. It’s as close to automotive clear in a can as you can get.
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I will get some pics tonight.
In addition to the yellowing, it looks like they have tiny spider web cracks all over them.
 
jjtrou2072 said:
I will get some pics tonight.
In addition to the yellowing, it looks like they have tiny spider web cracks all over them.
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Those spiderweb cracks can be sanded down to smooth out, and the clear should fill it to the point where it's not noticeable. As long as the interior of the light is not browning the outer lens can be saved. New lights are expensive, you can use that money for other things.
 
I've refinished mine (2013 LX) with success using the Meguiar's Two Step kit. I've also had success with 3M kits on other vehicles. Afterwards, I applied a UV protective coating (can't recall the product).

New assemblies are about $1200 USD...each...
 
IMG_4014.webp
I also have a 13 lx. I used the 3 m kit from Amazon in May 24. It took about two hours. So after about 18 months. My headlight does not look great. My lx is usually garaged.

The headlight assembly for lx is so damn expensive. I have been waiting for a big sale for a couple of years.

This is the kit I used.
 
You can get rid of oxidation long term via sanding up to 800 grit and spraying automotive clear or spraymax 2k (following all manufacturer directions). You cannot get rid of the crazing or stress cracks that you see in the light from various angles. The UV coating was gone for a long enough time that the plastic itself started to break down.

You basically have two options:
1. Get new oem headlights
2. Have the lenses replaced on your setup. There are aftermarket lenses. They're not as good as oem but much much cheaper and if you have ppf applied before they see any road impacts, they will stay looking fantastic long term.

While the lenses are being swapped, you can have them customized or upgraded to your liking. I've got a spare set on the bench getting new lenses, paint work, amber drls, and projector upgrades. IG @rigid_retrofits_llc
 
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what can be done proactively to prevent oxidation / yellowing? My lenses are in really good condition, and I would like to keep them that way.
 
sdnative said:
what can be done proactively to prevent oxidation / yellowing? My lenses are in really good condition, and I would like to keep them that way.
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Have PPF installed. Thats the best option out there. Quality films will last 8-10 years before needing to be replaced.
 
Depending on how deep "spiderweb cracks" are I would either send it with 400 -> 600 -> 800 grits and would coat it with 2K clear or replace lenses with these of ebay. Both options are labor intensive but relatively cheep.
IMO wouldn't waste time on "magic" headlight restoration kits. If there is any decent sun exposure they don't last.
 
For the OP, I wouldn't hesitate refinishing your headlights, but this time with automotive grade 2k clear.

I likewise used off the shelf kits twice before and while they did a good job, didn't last more than 1-2 years.

Do the same thing again, but more aggressively. You'll sand well past what you did with the kits, using even 600-800 grit. But this time finishing with 2k clear that will stand the test of time. Mine has been doing great bringing my lenses back from the dead, and giving the car newfound youth with crystal clear 'eyes'.

Great guide linked in my post here:

TeCKis300

Post in thread 'Polishing headlight lenses / grille removal'

Mine were really beat up, yellowing, and splotchy. After using a 3M kit a couple years ago. And Cerakote late year. They never last more than 8-12 mths. I was ready to buy news ones but wanted to try one more time with real 2k clear.

The process is practically the same as the kits, but the real automotive clear coat will make all the difference.

Critical is to sand away all the damaged OEM UV coat all the way to an even base plastic. Any yellowing, splotching, or patchiness, and its not sanding down far enough.

This article is on point and linked video is on point...
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FxFormat said:
Those spiderweb cracks can be sanded down to smooth out, and the clear should fill it to the point where it's not noticeable.
Click to expand...

Sometimes. In my case the interior of the lens was spidered. LCs have a horizontal section above the turn signal that gets hammered by the sun.. I sanded and polished to a perfect finish and the spiderwebs remained, clearly on the other side of the lens.
 
UT08LX570 said:
Have PPF installed. Thats the best option out there. Quality films will last 8-10 years before needing to be replaced.
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X2 PPF is the way to go but there will be some loss of optical clarity. My take is just to run OE until it degrades and then sand and go with PPF. I think the 2k clear would offer better optical clarity (given one can paint decently) but PPF offers more rock/pebble protection. So make your choice.
 
IF you, or anyone, decides to go with new OEM, I picked up one for my 13 LX from Serra Toyota during the 25% black friday sale for just under $800. I have the original if anyone needs to replace one that is beyond repair. Left side and everything worked as it should when removed by the body shop at local Toyota dealer. Not free but still cheap.

I was told by the body shop that they need to be calibrated after installation. Can anyone confirm that? If so, it definitely adds to the cost of replacing them.
 
jlm43 said:
I was told by the body shop that they need to be calibrated after installation. Can anyone confirm that? If so, it definitely adds to the cost of replacing them.
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The only calibration we did on my friend's was to find a wall and level it to the other side via the screws. AFS just worked after plugging in.
 
The LX headlights (low beams at least) turn to follow the steering. Maybe that is what needs to be calibrated?
 
sdnative said:
The LX headlights (low beams at least) turn to follow the steering. Maybe that is what needs to be calibrated?
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Sounds plausible. I had to have my right side replaced due to hitting a deer. The shop let me source the right and insurance took care of the rest.

I will say, having both headlights look new again definitely eases the tension when I look at them.
 
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