12V to Rear With Single Battery Setup

[TXLX100]

I decided to go ahead and install full time 12v power for a fridge. I don't have a working fridge yet, but I should soon if fedex doesn't lose it again or smash it to bits. I considered adding a dual battery setup, but I'm really not needing it yet with the way the vehicle is used. I can always switch things around easily if I decide to. Hopefully someone will find this information useful.

Supplies used:
Leftover roll of 6ga AWG (Given to me, and it was just enough to complete the work)
20ft of 1/4" wire loom (Harbor Freight)
2 copper terminal connectors 3/8", 2ga, (Harbor Freight)
Shrink tubing (Harbor Freight)
AGU Inline Fuse Holder + Fuse (Radio Shack)
Locking 12v receptacle and plug, for trolling motor (Academy)

Step 1 - Remove the passenger side kick panel, door kick plates, and back side panel. It was all pretty easy until I got to where the back side panel meets the tailgate threshold. The two pieces did not want to let go, the threshold snaps into the side piece pretty firmly.


Step 2 - Find a place to go through the passenger side firewall. I looked at the firewall and interior under the glovebox and it all looked like **** work if I needed to drill a new hole. So I poked a hole in the very large grommet that a bundle passes through, under the glovebox. (I added wire loom later)


Step 3 - Make up the positive terminal lead and inline fuse. I used copper terminal end from Harbor Freight. I nailed the in-line fuse holder to the fender well with some self tapping screws. I will spare you from looking at evidence of my shoddy soldering work. I routed the postive wire down from the battery, to the fender well, to the driver side fender, behind the brake components, followed the brake lines across the firewall, behind the AHC tank and down to the grommet.


Step 4 - Install a ground wire. I decided against grounding back to the battery. I grounded on one of the bolts for the third seat. I made sure to sand down the floor where the ground is (quite a bit of paint and primer compared to some other vehicles I have seen). I also used a 3/8", 2 ga copper terminal connector for the ground. I forgot to buy some tape, so that I could identify my hot and ground once this is all installed. I put some yellow shrink wrap on the end of my ground, it was the closest to white I had.


Step 5 - Figure out where to locate the plug. I wanted to mount the plug on the outside of the side panel, but the clearances on the backside of the panel, near the rear of the truck, did not appear to be large enough. So I went for drilling two holes in the underside of the large compartment, closest to the rear. I bought a trolling motor receptacle and plug, but I'm not 100% sure I'm going to use that. I realized my other truck has a standard 12v plug in the back with constant hot 12v, and I don't plan to change the receptacle.

 

[TXLX100]

One last picture, this is where I am at now. Not sure what I am going to do with the plug or if I will go ahead and add a fuse block setup in the compartment like many others have.

 

[TXLX100]

Maybe there is enough clearance to place a plug where I want. I thought the seatbelt retractor filled up the space shown in the photo.

(Photo courtesy of perrobravo)

 

[SmoothLC]

Nice pics and write up. Clean install.

I'm interested to see where you locate it.

 

[TXLX100]

After a second look at the space just to the right of the long storage compartment, in front of the seat belt retractor... There is some space there. The trolling motor receptacle I have needs about 2" plus a little room for the wires to run into the back.

I'm either going to put a plug there ^ or make small panel that will live in the storage compartment and leave room for another standard 12v plug and a USB 12v plug. I'm liking the idea of building a plug panel inside the compartment (unless someone has a better idea). It might look a little wacky with device cords running out of it, but there will be exposed cords anyway.

UPDATE:
I decided that I am going to locate my 12v plugs in the long storage compartment. Also, I am defintely going to have to scrap the trolling motor plug and receptacle. It was so tight plugging and unplugging that it was twisting the receptacle even when I had the receptacle nut very tight. I wasn't real excited about it anyway, it was all I could find in my part of town yesterday. I just need to put some wood filler on the low tech panel I built and prime/paint and it will be ready for a receptacle.

I'm looking at the Blue Sea 6 circut with a negative bus, can anyone tell me how this is made up with wiring? I assume I run my "main" positive and negative to the Blue Sea and then run positive and negative to the Blue Sea for each 12v plug / device? I'm not sure if I'm going to expand to a fuse block right away, I had it in my head a Blue Sea cost $60+, but I see it's $36 on Amazon, so I may just do this all in one go.

 

[TXLX100]

I'm looking at the Blue Sea 6 circut with a negative bus, can anyone tell me how this is made up with wiring? I assume I run my "main" positive and negative to the Blue Sea and then run positive and negative to the Blue Sea for each 12v plug / device?

Has anyone installed a Blue Sea fuse panel with a negative bus? I assume that's what I need to buy. Like I asked before, do I simply run the main positive and negative to the fuse panel and then just install a positive and negative wire for each plug/device and connect to fuse panel obviously? Sorry if it's a simple question, I didn't learn much from the blue sea website.

 

[perrobravo]

Has anyone installed a Blue Sea fuse panel with a negative bus? I assume that's what I need to buy. Like I asked before, do I simply run the main positive and negative to the fuse panel and then just install a positive and negative wire for each plug/device and connect to fuse panel obviously? Sorry if it's a simple question, I didn't learn much from the blue sea website.

Not sure if this is the fuse panel you're referring to, but I'm running a Blue Sea 5026ST. I ran pos and neg cables from my (2nd) battery to the Blue Sea and ground all the accessories back to the Blue Sea.

 

[TXLX100]

Ok thanks that's what I needed to know. I'm looking at buying the same, but smaller unit. The blue sea diagram had a switch panel wired in and was confusing me, I don't have any plans for switches right now. The negative bus v no negative bus issue was also confusing, I know need to ground everything.

 

[perrobravo]

Ok thanks that's what I needed to know. I'm looking at buying the same, but smaller unit. The blue sea diagram had a switch panel wired in and was confusing me, I don't have any plans for switches right now. The negative bus v no negative bus issue was also confusing, I know need to ground everything.

I'm no electrician, but I agree, you're safer grounding at the fuse box with the right cable than grounding all over the place. Surely there are exceptions, but I try to follow this as a general rule to keep out of trouble and simplify troubleshooting.

Good luck!

 

[DJWUZJ]

If I were going to go back and do this again, I'd probably use a combination of the blue sea fuse box, as well as Anderson Power Plugs.

Check out http://www.powerwerx.com to get some ideas on what you can do... pretty nifty to rig up outlets here and there using those. They can handle more power, and give you a better connection than a 12v cig outlet.

I went with a BlueSea box where the first aid kit is... info in my thread in my signature.

 

[TXLX100]

Thanks I'll check it out. I'll probably stick with the locking 12v plug on the fridge, so I can move it between my vehicles and not have to make another power cord. That website has a ton of stuff on there.

I was thinking about mounting the fuse box on a piece of wood and laying it down in the long compartment. I guess it will depend on clearance. It would be easier to put the panel where the first aid kit is.

 

[spressomon]

FWIW I, years ago, thought the Marinco twist lock 12v would offer a more secure connection for my fridge. But in the end it proved unreliable...presumably just from the wear of plugging/unplugging it.

I eventually moved to the Hella style power plugs and then a couple years ago at TrickyT's urging...fabbed an Anderson Powerpole connector for the fridge (with the removable plastic "coupler") and have finally put that dog to bed...problem solved once and for all.

I have a 12-bank Bluesea aux fuse panel in the engine bay and a 6-bank version of same in the rear cubby. Both use positive and negative buss distribution as I don't have any high draw appliances that either serve. And this style of panel makes wiring so much easier/quicker.

I originally used higher amperage blade type fuse & holder to protect the rear circuit near the + connection at the battery but have since moved to circuit breakers. #1) Its resettable in the event the circuit is faulted...and you know it never happens in a brightly lit garage . And #2) It provides a quick way of totally disconnecting a circuit when/if needed.

 

[duggy]

That's not a bad idea to use the blue seas fuse box for the front. It'd make wiring accessories into the front much easier and painless.

Just a thought, you didn't want to run larger gauge wire to the rear in case you do utilize a dual battery setup in the future? I dislike running wires to the rear so I always try to plan ahead, but maybe that's me.

Also, doesn't the truck have a 12v plug back there? Is there no way to directly wire it up so it will be on full-time?

 

[TXLX100]

I would put the fuse box up front if I could think of anything I would add up front. If I end up adding a handful of accessories up front later, I'd be fine with adding another fuse box.

I used 6 AWG stranded copper and it was free! I plan on using the fridge for now, maybe an exterior LED, a couple of interior LEDs, a USB plug for phones and such, and occasional use of a stand-alone compressor. I think the 6 AWG will handle my needs with or without a second battery. I'm sort of putting off a second battery, I'm waffling on what I'm going to do with the AHC long term and a second battery would be a little easier without AHC. Running more wire is not bad if I need to go back and do 2 gauge or better.

There is a 12v receptacle on the driver side C-pillar. I looked at jumping some ACC power to it but decided against it. I probably would if I needed it for a day or two. And I didn't want to chop up my factory wiring so I could use the junky receptacle back there.

 

[duggy]

I would put the fuse box up front if I could think of anything I would add up front. If I end up adding a handful of accessories up front later, I'd be fine with adding another fuse box.

I used 6 AWG stranded copper and it was free! I plan on using the fridge for now, maybe an exterior LED, a couple of interior LEDs, a USB plug for phones and such, and occasional use of a stand-alone compressor. I think the 6 AWG will handle my needs with or without a second battery. I'm sort of putting off a second battery, I'm waffling on what I'm going to do with the AHC long term and a second battery would be a little easier without AHC. Running more wire is not bad if I need to go back and do 2 gauge or better.

There is a 12v receptacle on the driver side C-pillar. I looked at jumping some ACC power to it but decided against it. I probably would if I needed it for a day or two. And I didn't want to chop up my factory wiring so I could use the junky receptacle back there.

Roger that. I agree with adding a fuse box to the front and will probably follow suit.

I have a 98 with no AHC so it was a no brainer for me to add a second battery, especially since i had it in my 80.

 

[perrobravo]

...I didn't want to chop up my factory wiring so I could use the junky receptacle back there.

I hacked into the factory wiring and added a dual USB outlet on that side, wired to be always on. As a result, the tailgate becomes a popular hang out spot at camp, especially on the 2nd day when everyone's phone is running low on juice. I've thought about putting a tip jar nearby to help offset the costs.

 

[TXLX100]

I finished installing the 12v power to the back of my LX. I gave up on trying to fit a panel in the storage compartment. It didn't fit right and securing it nicely was going to be a pain.

Since I don't have the need for a fuse box yet, I needed to go from 6 gauge wire to 10 gauge for the outlet. I found some heavy duty ring terminal for 6 gauge, but could only find the flimsy ones for 10 gauge. I put a ring terminal on each 6 gauge and 10 gauge wire and bolted them together to make the union. I followed up with some electrical tape, shrink wrap, and more electrical tape.



The Marinco receptacle is nice enough, but I was pretty aggravated about the backing nut design. It only has threads in two spots, the rest blank and a blank spot on the receptacle so the nut can be slid down without threading it. Basically it is a crappy design and only allows you to tighten the back nut a half turn before it releases. I wasted a good ten minutes fiddling with just securing the receptacle.

 

[DJWUZJ]

Good spot for the plug! I have one there too and IMO should have come that way from the factory.