12HT stalling

[Wherlwind]

Having a small problem with an 89 HJ61. When coming to a stop and putting the clutch in the revs drop down to around 400RPM and the engine stumbles , almost stalls and then comes back up to the correct idle speed, aroung 650 or so. I've had this truck for a couple years and it had this problem from day one but not as bad as it is now. I've never had it stall completely on me but my wife has had it stall three times. Other than this problem it runs fine at speed and idles fine . Any ideas?

 

[johnnyporp]

Have you replaced the fuel filter?

 

[knucklebone]

Howdy,

I replaced the fuel filter amongst all other things when giving some TLC to my "new" HJ 61. Stalling still remains.

Does your Charge Light Relay make a buzzing sound when revs go down to 400? (The relay is in the front, on the passengers side in the leg compartment behind a plastic panel on the right)

I changed that relay with a new one. Nothing. In fact the buzzing sound came stronger with the new one, so in went the old relay.
Batteries are new.

My car buzzes every time I shut the engine down. Also, every time it starts, all the warning lights come on in the dashboard, until I rev the motor a little. The warning lights go off with a buzz and the volt meter starts rising again over 24 V.

With my car, I think there is a bad ground between the battery and the frame. Battery cables seem to be original and so over 20 years old, so one can only imagine how much that applies to the problem. I haven't had enough time to check these connections properly. Maybe rust and dirt have done their job on the connections...?

Don't know if this helps at all, but you're not alone man, you're not alone.

If you get it figured out, please share the cure here.

 

[kevin in okinawa]

bump for same motor.

 

[Wherlwind]

Have you replaced the fuel filter?

just did and that seems to have cured it for now. Took it out for a spin after it stalled twice on my wife. I didn't get it to stall, but almost, then swapped in a new filter and seems okay. Fuel from old filter had a bit of junk floating in it so hope that's all it was. Thanks, Pete

 

[yann_61]

Howdy,

I replaced the fuel filter amongst all other things when giving some TLC to my "new" HJ 61. Stalling still remains.

Does your Charge Light Relay make a buzzing sound when revs go down to 400? (The relay is in the front, on the passengers side in the leg compartment behind a plastic panel on the right)

I changed that relay with a new one. Nothing. In fact the buzzing sound came stronger with the new one, so in went the old relay.
Batteries are new.

My car buzzes every time I shut the engine down. Also, every time it starts, all the warning lights come on in the dashboard, until I rev the motor a little. The warning lights go off with a buzz and the volt meter starts rising again over 24 V.

With my car, I think there is a bad ground between the battery and the frame. Battery cables seem to be original and so over 20 years old, so one can only imagine how much that applies to the problem. I haven't had enough time to check these connections properly. Maybe rust and dirt have done their job on the connections...?

Don't know if this helps at all, but you're not alone man, you're not alone.

If you get it figured out, please share the cure here.

For Knucklebone
You seem to have an alternator issue there
I would check the brushes before looking for something funky
my 2 cents

 

[knucklebone]

Thanks yann_61!

I have already changed the brushes to new Toyota ones. Can it be the voltage regulator or the diodes? Well maybe I'll try to change the whole alternator to a "new" one, if my local Toy-Shop isn't too greedy with the parts price...

 

[Wherlwind]

well, that didn't work . It is still dropping down to 400RPM and almost stalling. I'm thinking maybe it is a linkage binding a bit. I have a problem in cold weather when starting where it revs way high and won't kick down so maybe they are connected
Knucklebone , when it's about to stall the idiot lights do come on, no buzzing, but I think they all do that when RPMs too low. I know my HJ60 does. I don't think your stalling problem is related to the charging issue. Don't you have a shop near that can test your alternator? They should be able to tell you if it's the alternator or regulator.

 

[yann_61]

well, that didn't work . It is still dropping down to 400RPM and almost stalling. I'm thinking maybe it is a linkage binding a bit. I have a problem in cold weather when starting where it revs way high and won't kick down so maybe they are connected
Knucklebone , when it's about to stall the idiot lights do come on, no buzzing, but I think they all do that when RPMs too low. I know my HJ60 does. I don't think your stalling problem is related to the charging issue. Don't you have a shop near that can test your alternator? They should be able to tell you if it's the alternator or regulator.

Hello again

Sometimes just upping your idle to 700 rpm will prevent the stalling, but it "doesn't solve the problem"

checking the vacuum lines might also be useful, they have a tendency to become porous with time
good luck

Yann

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Check that the lift pump is working properly...

If it's a problem relating to the throttle snapping shut, put a damper on it to slow down the "snap" (damper found on many gas cars - find one in a wrecking yard).

 

[Sambo]

I used to have the same thing back when I had the idle set to low. Sometimes the aircon compressor would come on just as I put my foot on the clutch, the sudden small load while the engine was slowing down made it stall a few times. upped the idle a tiny bit and it fixed it.

 

[gedrich]

I had this problem with my 61 when I bought it.
Only used to happen when the vehicle was cold and usually at the 1st to 2nd gear change as you were half way across a large intersection -all of a sudden no go and no power steering with cars up ya butt. fortunately the 61 would start again instantly and away you'd go


Changed the fuel filter and had the injector pump cleaned out etc and it improved it slightly before things went back to the way they were.

My fix was to up the idle revs 50 or a 100rpm.

That was 2.5 years ago and it has not stalled since.

 

[Wherlwind]

Okay, maybe I'll try upping the idle a bit but it seems to idle fine. The tach reads about 600 and it should be 650 but the problem appears when revs are around 1500-2000 and I put the clutch in to stop then it will drop to 400 almost stall and then return to idle .
I've only noticed it stumble when it's warm. I'll have to see whether it does it cold too.
'Radd Cruisers' I'm not sure what you mean by the "lift pump".

 

[Radd Cruisers]

lift pump, fuel transfer pump... it moves the fuel from the fuel tank to the injection pump. It's located in the same area as the primer pump.

Crack the fuel bleeder next to the filter when the engine's running... lots of fuel coming out? Under good pressure? If so, then your lift pump is probably okay.

~john

 

[Tapage]

id you already check your tank breather

 

[Wherlwind]

I'm getting plenty of fuel at the filter. I upped the idle about 50 rpm and there haven't been anymore stalls. Doesnt seem to stumble at all either .I lubed all the linkages with graphite spray too. I had some problems in the cold last year with it revving way up on starts and it's not doing that either even though it's been very cold(-30c). Hope this cures it

 

[LenaW]

Does anyone know what causes this? I have the same problem.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Does anyone know what causes this? I have the same problem.

Have you tried turning the idle up?

 

[LenaW]

Yes and it hides the problem but doesn't quite solve the problem. Now it doesn't stall but after putting down the clutch it falls down to 400-500 rpm a few seconds before it stabilizes at 700rpm.
I would like to know what causes this and do a proper repair.

 

[BEE-JAY42]

Just a quick thought, your automatic timer might be slow to return back to idle position, if your engine is advancing it's timing at higher revs and then the auto timer is sticking and is slow to return, your timing would stay advanced for a brief period even though the engine has returned to idle. This could explain why it stumbles.

I can't really think of a way of testing this theory short of pulling your timer apart and measuring spring heights, you could try a diesel timing light but i'm not convinced it would give you a definant answer. The only other thing I can think of is taking your engine up to 1000rpm and let it return to idle and then taking it to 3000rpm and let it return to idle and see if there is any difference. At 1000rpm you won't have advanced your timing as far so it should have less effect.