12ht Rebuild, just about finished -couple questions? (2 Viewers)

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You can definitely control the VSV with the original 2h edic control relay and retain the low oil pressure safety cut out. I converted my HJ60 to 12HT a couple of months ago got it to work. Power and earth for the solenoid must come form the relay. From memory the start and run outputs needed bridging together otherwise the valve would not open while cranking.

Thanks, so your saying that I join two of the wires Run & Start that go to the edic and the Shutdown wire too the VSV? Just making sure it's safe to join Start & Run wires together as they will have power on each one them at certain time during the ignition starting of the engine, I was worried that sending volts up say the Run wire while the Start wire was active with volts on it, or is this how it works when connected to the edic?
 
Ok so I just went and pulled my kick panel and had a look at how I wired it. The Blue wire which is motor power supply goes to one side of the solenoid and the Yellow and Green which are Overdrive and Drive position are joined together and go to the other side of the solenoid, these provide the earth side of the circuit. The only problem I have noticed with this setup is I can't roll start it without turning the key to start position to reset the low oil pressure timer.
 
Ok so I just went and pulled my kick panel and had a look at how I wired it. The Blue wire which is motor power supply goes to one side of the solenoid and the Yellow and Green which are Overdrive and Drive position are joined together and go to the other side of the solenoid, these provide the earth side of the circuit. The only problem I have noticed with this setup is I can't roll start it without turning the key to start position to reset the low oil pressure timer.




Ok, so where the wires join the edic motors connection plug, all I need to do is join the over inject & run wires together and then carry on the blue wire to the VSV?


Do you know how long power is supplied to the blue wire for when the ignition is turned off?


The low oil pressure switch problem you mentioned is only a minor problem, means if you left the ignition on and the vehicle started rolling at least it won't fire up and take off?
 
On another issue, have striped down the turbo, the turbine, both inlet & exhaust seem in pretty good nick, shaft actually has no play at all and spins quietly.


Have attached two photos, the oil on the exhaust side turbine indicates that the seals made leaking?, the oil drain pipe was blocked and the water return pipe for the water was blocked as well.


On the turbine of the inlet there is a little white build up on the tips of the blades, the oil is from the engine via the rocker cover tube connection, motors had a a little blow by the looks?


Last is the figures 095 stenciled on the inlet casing or is it g60? does anyone know what it stands for?

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I found when I striped the turbo I found 4 washers under each of the two bolts that held the wastegate actuator bracket, it would be equal to about a 4 to 5mm.


If the turbo is set to a 13.5psi boost standard (0-95 bar) what would 4 to 5mm give you by this sort of adjustment?


Thanks
 
I honestly don't know mate. Just grab a boost controller from ebay and chuck it on. That way u can dial in ur own boost level. Im running 15psi in my 12ht with a top mount and fuel turned up a bit. Goes well and cruises at 100kph egt at 300'c pulls hard
 
I honestly don't know mate. Just grab a boost controller from ebay and chuck it on. That way u can dial in ur own boost level. Im running 15psi in my 12ht with a top mount and fuel turned up a bit. Goes well and cruises at 100kph egt at 300'c pulls hard


May do that! have you had any surging with the 12ht engine, or when coming off revs back to idle getting a miss fire on one cylinder?
 
Just picked up my rebuilt 12ht from HM-Gem Engines, just need to paint the block blue.


All the brackets , diesel lines, turbo & assorted oil & water tubes, inlet manifold, exhaust manifold, heat screens, water pump housing, everything & anything has been dropped off at the Powder Coaters to be two packed or ceramic coated.


Ip pump is ready, I was lucky there, no major work needed, just a full service. Not so lucky with the injectors thou, all six needed a full rebuild.

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Looking good mate. You'll love it when its all back together, the engine all painted and clean with everything bolted up looks fantastic. Lucky with the pump. Mine cost me $2700 and needed a full rebuild...even tho it seemed to run perfectly before. Seriously, keep the pics flowing!
 
Looking good mate. You'll love it when its all back together, the engine all painted and clean with everything bolted up looks fantastic. Lucky with the pump. Mine cost me $2700 and needed a full rebuild...even tho it seemed to run perfectly before. Seriously, keep the pics flowing!




Diesel Australia did the IP pump, when I drop it off, Brad whom I believe is one of the owners and is hands on said that he hopes it just needs a good clean & full service. I said if its bad should I buy an exchange unit, he said don't. I asked how much for a full overhaul and he said $2,600.


He went on to say that buying a exchange 12ht IP is like the lottery, saying it might be good and it might be bad. Said he has rebuilt quite a few over the years and it takes a couple try's before it comes up to spec, said they are one of the most difficult IP's to rebuild.


He also said, that's the reason why they are so expensive for a full rebuild, I have read many a thread here of owners of 12ht's having their IP's rebuilt 2 to 3 times and still not being happy.


One of the signs of a problem IP on a 12ht is, surging and when coming back to idle having a miss on one cylinder and its always a different cylinder each time and another problem is a touchy throttle.


Lastly, he said mine was supplying to much fuel, I asked had the previous owner wound the fuel up? he said it's known factor with the 12ht IP's as they get old and wear sets in, they supply more fuel, hence the black smoke. Problem is owners don't won't to pay to have there 12ht IP's serviced, they think a oil & filter service is all that is required?
 
Problem is owners don't won't to pay to have there 12ht IP's serviced, they think a oil & filter service is all that is required?

And so what does the said Brad suggest as a service for the IP?

They are lubricated by engine oil.
You change fuel filters to give them clean fuel.

What other servicing did he recommend?
Or is he saying they need removing, putting on their test machine now and again?
Or is just saying a service is adjusting the fuel screws if it is blowing too much smoke.
 
And so what does the said Brad suggest as a service for the IP?

They are lubricated by engine oil.
You change fuel filters to give them clean fuel.

What other servicing did he recommend?
Or is he saying they need removing, putting on their test machine now and again?
Or is just saying a service is adjusting the fuel screws if it is blowing too much smoke.


The impression I got was that by the time he gets these 12ht IP's on his test bench its usually when the engine is getting rebuilt after 300,000 to 500,000klm or the IP is playing up, then it gets expensive


In my case I bought the 12ht so to rebuild it, the oil had not been changed for I do not know how long, water was very rusty, the turbo oil drain pipe was blocked, the water inlet & outlet to the turbo was also blocked. It's a wonder the engine still ran so well when I looked at it?


For a $600 bench test, full clean inside & out and adjust its worth it, its better than a $2,600 for a full rebuild or exchange?


I know its not an easy removal of a IP from a 12ht if it still in the vehicles, but as it stands I feel I am $2,000 in front, all I am saying is it seems not many people seem to want to get the IP serviced? only after it starts playing up?

PS. The second thing he asked was where are the injectors, which I dropped off the next day, all 6 needed rebuilding? at a cost of $80 each.
 
I think you'll find most ppl will think 'well if it aint broke why fix it' these ip's rarely go wrong so unless the car stops it'll be thought of as being in perfect running condition
 
I think you'll find most ppl will think 'well if it aint broke why fix it' these ip's rarely go wrong so unless the car stops it'll be thought of as being in perfect running condition
 
I think you'll find most ppl will think 'well if it aint broke why fix it' these ip's rarely go wrong so unless the car stops it'll be thought of as being in perfect running condition




These IP's are getting very scarce, the next one I see floating around I think I will grab it as a backup!
 
That seems a little over cautious


Just bought a CHRA for my turbo from TurboPartsCity02 in California, balanced to 150,000 rev at 1.5mg, will see what its like when it arrives.


The same CHRA hear is 4 times that price?
 

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