120k Starter, Radiator, Waterpump parts (1 Viewer)

[NMNORSSE]

Could you elaborate which hose and belts?

It's already sort of been covered but I thought of a few more things:

You've already listed the serpentine belt.

Hoses- heater, radiator and new clamps. These get old, dry, brittle, thin, weak.... and a failure 20 miles from paved roads or a parts shop is a problem. While you are at it, if the coolant hasn't been flushed and replaced 120k is a good time to do it.

Brake lines. 120k is a lot of stops for those brake lines, and that is a service item which I think is often overlooked.

PCV valve, someone else mentioned. Its cheap and easy...

O2 and Mass Airflow sensors aren't too expensive. Rumor has it their accuracy deteriorates over time and they should be changed at about 120k. So, even if they don't throw a code you might want to change them to keep your rig running right.

Spark plugs at 120k if they haven't already been changed isn't a bad idea.

Heater hose tees. Those are a known issue on the 100s. I haven't heard about a problem on the 200s, but there has been some chatter about preventative upgrade/replacement. If they aren't too expensive and if you are changing those hoses anyhow, either put in new OEM or maybe get NAPA to pull a matching set in brass or aluminum from the good old parts books.

 

[dwai]

I already changed out the spark plugs, brake fluid, steering fluid, trans, and diff fluid. Trying to tackle the maintenance stuff not mentioned in the user manual. Never heard of the issue with the o2 sensor but my camry in high school had an issue with it after 180k and it wasn't a big deal to change out.
As far as the coolant, it's going to get drained out when I replace the radiator.
Thanks for the feedback!

 

[drewdat]

I just replaced my radiator, upper and lower hoses, water pump, thermostat, fan clutch, serpentine belt, tensioner, pulley, and flushed my coolant this past weekend. My 2010 has 162k on it and the radiator was leaking. Everything else I replaced actually looked like they were still in really good shape considering the mileage.... at least no visual damage or extra play that I could tell....

I also ended up cleaning out my throttle body... which wasn't part of my plan but after putting everything together i started getting P2111 Throttle Actuator Control System - Stuck Open. I must have dislodged some soot when I stuck a rag in there while working on everything else. The throttle body was extremely dirty! BTW, when you get the P2111 error... the vehicle goes into extreme limp mode. Depressing the accelerator only raised my RPMs by 100 or 200 over idle... so not a fun one to have pop up on me when I was a mile away from the house when testing out all the stuff I just replaced.

I purchased all four oxygen sensors and a new MAF sensor as well... but decided to make sure everything was running okay with all the parts I replaced before messing with anything else.

I did a lot of research on the parts and tried to figure out the OEM manufacturer for all the parts so I could purchase them from Rock Auto for a fraction of the OEM price. The only parts I probably would have done differently are the hoses and pulley. I knew the hoses I purchased weren't the OEM manufacturer but I figured they were rubber so who gives... but they seemed significantly thinner than the OEM hoses I removed. Also the idler pulley I put on immediately threw white grease after running it for 10 mins. I'm not sure if that is normal or not, but I'll be keeping an eye on it.

Here are the part numbers I got from Rock Auto:

I also bought these on Amazon as it was a better price:

I picked up all the coolant at my local dealership with my TLCA 15% discount.

I followed the advice to reuse the passenger side radiator mount off the old radiator so I didn't have to remove the bumper and grill and that worked really well. The one thing that I did get caught up on was draining coolant from the engine block. It took me forever to find the cylinder block drain cock plugs as shown in the diagram below. The driver's side was almost impossible to see... and incredibly hard to reach. You can see the passenger side plug through the wheel well fairly easily... but the driver's side isn't in the same spot... I jacked the car up, stuck my head between the tire and fender and closed one eye and could just make it out (would have been slightly easier without the tire on). I had to use about 16" of extensions and and pivoting socket to reach it... luckily you just need to loosen the nut to drain it otherwise I never would have attempted as I doubt I could have gotten it back on without pulling the whole engine. If anyone needs any help finding these I can go out and take a picture.

 

[dwai]

I got lucky. The previous owner cleaned out the throttle body at 90k at Toyota

 

[dwai]

I just replaced my radiator, upper and lower hoses, water pump, thermostat, fan clutch, serpentine belt, tensioner, pulley, and flushed my coolant this past weekend. My 2010 has 162k on it and the radiator was leaking. Everything else I replaced actually looked like they were still in really good shape considering the mileage.... at least no visual damage or extra play that I could tell....

I also ended up cleaning out my throttle body... which wasn't part of my plan but after putting everything together i started getting P2111 Throttle Actuator Control System - Stuck Open. I must have dislodged some soot when I stuck a rag in there while working on everything else. The throttle body was extremely dirty! BTW, when you get the P2111 error... the vehicle goes into extreme limp mode. Depressing the accelerator only raised my RPMs by 100 or 200 over idle... so not a fun one to have pop up on me when I was a mile away from the house when testing out all the stuff I just replaced.

I purchased all four oxygen sensors and a new MAF sensor as well... but decided to make sure everything was running okay with all the parts I replaced before messing with anything else.

I did a lot of research on the parts and tried to figure out the OEM manufacturer for all the parts so I could purchase them from Rock Auto for a fraction of the OEM price. The only parts I probably would have done differently are the hoses and pulley. I knew the hoses I purchased weren't the OEM manufacturer but I figured they were rubber so who gives... but they seemed significantly thinner than the OEM hoses I removed. Also the idler pulley I put on immediately threw white grease after running it for 10 mins. I'm not sure if that is normal or not, but I'll be keeping an eye on it.

Here are the part numbers I got from Rock Auto:

View attachment 1663678

I also bought these on Amazon as it was a better price:
View attachment 1663679

I picked up all the coolant at my local dealership with my TLCA 15% discount.

I followed the advice to reuse the passenger side radiator mount off the old radiator so I didn't have to remove the bumper and grill and that worked really well. The one thing that I did get caught up on was draining coolant from the engine block. It took me forever to find the cylinder block drain cock plugs as shown in the diagram below. The driver's side was almost impossible to see... and incredibly hard to reach. You can see the passenger side plug through the wheel well fairly easily... but the driver's side isn't in the same spot... I jacked the car up, stuck my head between the tire and fender and closed one eye and could just make it out (would have been slightly easier without the tire on). I had to use about 16" of extensions and and pivoting socket to reach it... luckily you just need to loosen the nut to drain it otherwise I never would have attempted as I doubt I could have gotten it back on without pulling the whole engine. If anyone needs any help finding these I can go out and take a picture.
View attachment 1663680

I didn't realized u can get o2 sensors for that price! I think it was 100+ per sensor at the dealer website. This is awesome. I might just change that out too lol. New everything!

 

[dwai]

I just replaced my radiator, upper and lower hoses, water pump, thermostat, fan clutch, serpentine belt, tensioner, pulley, and flushed my coolant this past weekend. My 2010 has 162k on it and the radiator was leaking. Everything else I replaced actually looked like they were still in really good shape considering the mileage.... at least no visual damage or extra play that I could tell....

I also ended up cleaning out my throttle body... which wasn't part of my plan but after putting everything together i started getting P2111 Throttle Actuator Control System - Stuck Open. I must have dislodged some soot when I stuck a rag in there while working on everything else. The throttle body was extremely dirty! BTW, when you get the P2111 error... the vehicle goes into extreme limp mode. Depressing the accelerator only raised my RPMs by 100 or 200 over idle... so not a fun one to have pop up on me when I was a mile away from the house when testing out all the stuff I just replaced.

I purchased all four oxygen sensors and a new MAF sensor as well... but decided to make sure everything was running okay with all the parts I replaced before messing with anything else.

I did a lot of research on the parts and tried to figure out the OEM manufacturer for all the parts so I could purchase them from Rock Auto for a fraction of the OEM price. The only parts I probably would have done differently are the hoses and pulley. I knew the hoses I purchased weren't the OEM manufacturer but I figured they were rubber so who gives... but they seemed significantly thinner than the OEM hoses I removed. Also the idler pulley I put on immediately threw white grease after running it for 10 mins. I'm not sure if that is normal or not, but I'll be keeping an eye on it.

Here are the part numbers I got from Rock Auto:

View attachment 1663678

I also bought these on Amazon as it was a better price:
View attachment 1663679

I picked up all the coolant at my local dealership with my TLCA 15% discount.

I followed the advice to reuse the passenger side radiator mount off the old radiator so I didn't have to remove the bumper and grill and that worked really well. The one thing that I did get caught up on was draining coolant from the engine block. It took me forever to find the cylinder block drain cock plugs as shown in the diagram below. The driver's side was almost impossible to see... and incredibly hard to reach. You can see the passenger side plug through the wheel well fairly easily... but the driver's side isn't in the same spot... I jacked the car up, stuck my head between the tire and fender and closed one eye and could just make it out (would have been slightly easier without the tire on). I had to use about 16" of extensions and and pivoting socket to reach it... luckily you just need to loosen the nut to drain it otherwise I never would have attempted as I doubt I could have gotten it back on without pulling the whole engine. If anyone needs any help finding these I can go out and take a picture.
View attachment 1663680

btw you mentioned that u replaced 4 o2 sensors? Looks like u ordered 2. Would you also mind sharing a photo of the Denso radiator? I wonder if it is still prone to cracking like the OEM ones.
Thanks!

 

[drewdat]

btw you mentioned that u replaced 4 o2 sensors? Looks like u ordered 2.
Thanks!

I ordered the 2 downstream oxygen sensors from Rock Auto... but got a better price on the upstream o2 sensors (same part for both left and right) from Amazon. Unfortunately the upstream sensors are 100+ each.

I don't have the LC with me right now, so I'll upload a pic of the radiator later.

 

[dwai]

Finally changed these out.
Final bill shows a Toyota radiator part, but I got the part from Koyorad. The only Toyota part I got was the starter, everything else was either Aisen, Denso or Koyorad.