12/71 Hazard Switch Operation

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Adarcy

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Hi all,

I’m starting down the path of diagnosing why my turn signals are slowly giving out, they work, then slowly fade out/stop working.

Some searches on mud led to starting by cleaning up the hazard switch. All fine and good, but I’ve once again managed to turn a quick job into a longer job, ha!

In a moment of brilliance, I took off the cover to the switch and inadvertently caused everything to come apart.

So, A) What is the proper way to reassemble?

And B) Would someone please take me to school on how this switch is supposed to operate?

Thanks in advance

1C88421A-E58E-4078-87D5-10F9BB2B7A54.jpeg
 
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Get a new one, IMO. and replace the flasher, if they work then slow there is typically 2 issues, the flasher is bad and/or the connection at fuse block is corroded causing low voltage to flasher.
 

ToyotaMatt

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Hi all,

I’m starting down the path of diagnosing why my turn signals are slowly giving out, they work, then slowly fade out/stop working.

Some searches on mud led to starting by cleaning up the hazard switch. All fine and good, but I’ve once again managed to turn a quick job into a longer job, ha!

In a moment of brilliance, I took off the cover to the switch and inadvertently caused everything to come apart.

So, A) What is the proper way to reassemble?

And B) Would someone please take me to school on how this switch is supposed to operate?

Thanks in advance

View attachment 3181075


if the white plastic tiny square thing is still on the end of your pull stalk like that ?


you now have a PARTS SWITCH .........


i have NOS and professionally restored ones as well


please PM me for further information


judging from your pics above ?

that internals of that switch started to die a while ago a slow painful death :confused:



89620-60060jpg.image.500 x400 - Copy (2) - Copy - Copy - Copy.jpg
 
Last edited:

Adarcy

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Never mind, I slowed down, stopped multitasking on the switch while working, opened a beer, and then bingo. It made sense. Cleaning the switch up, which goes back together just fine.

We’ll see if this helps with the slow/dimming blinkers. Next I’ll be investigating headlight grounds, and checking the alternator to see if it’s putting out enough juice at idle. The blinkers do when under load/throttle…
 
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Never mind, I slowed down, stopped multitasking on the switch while working, opened a beer, and then bingo. It made sense. Cleaning the switch up, which goes back together just fine.

We’ll see if this helps with the slow/dimming blinkers. Next I’ll be investigating headlight grounds, and checking the alternator to see if it’s putting out enough juice at idle. The blinkers do when under load/throttle…
Following this one. I have the same issue with the turn signals. I was going to tackle the hazard switch as well to see if this resolved the problem.
 

Coolerman

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This might help someone Template - http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/hazard_switches.htm

Slow flashing is almost always the flasher. Dim lights are almost always dirty contacts on the Hazard and/or Turn switches, or bad grounds at the lights and/or corroded fuse contacts.
Don't forget that early trucks (pre-1971) had two separate flashers for the Turn signals and Hazard lights. The 1968-1971 trucks also had the evil hidden separate fuse holder with a 10 Amp fuse for the Hazard circuit.
 
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@Coolerman I had not heard of the "evil hidden separate fuse holder with a 10 amp fuse for the Hazard circuit." Nor have I ever run across it. Where is it hidden?
Thanks
 

firemanj92

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@Coolerman I had not heard of the "evil hidden separate fuse holder with a 10 amp fuse for the Hazard circuit." Nor have I ever run across it. Where is it hidden?
Thanks
It's hidden under the cowling vent. The easiest (probably only) way to access it is to remove the cowl vent taped to the loom.
 

Coolerman

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As fireman92 said it is taped to the harness behind the heater. You can remove the heater to get to it ,or go through the cowl vent. It will have Green/Red wires going to it.
The fuse holder is a clear plasitc holder and they become brittle over time. If you get in there and find the fuse holder broken, I sell a good replacement, Part # FH1. This is a good time to extend the wires so the fuse is easily reached. I should make a kit for that...
 

ERNRAM

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That inline fuse was toast ( housing and all on mine). I got a Autozone mini inline fuse holder for blade fuses and wired it in.

I did not know Mark had a kit planned
 

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