You don't need to re-torque the valve cover gaskets unless they are leaking. You can easily over do it with too much pressure on the gasket.
I don't know what exceed sealer is.
100 Series Valve Cover Gasket WrIte up - 2001LC (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter ffpmsam
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You don't need to re-torque the valve cover gaskets unless they are leaking. You can easily over do it with too much pressure on the gasket.
I don't know what exceed sealer is.
What I mean is the FIPG, if some of dried FIPG fell in the valve cover then should it be a big problem
No, shouldn't be an issue unless it's a very large amount.
Out of curiosity, why do those torque numbers need to be so low? Is it THAT low pressure of a system?
If it dropped, I guess only like half of a peanut, but It probably did not drop...
It wouldn't fall into the valve cover unless you flipped your car.
well, it is probably just a series of symptoms of self-doubt after my first time opening the engine. Never done this before, both sides took me two weekends, I think if I do this next time I should complete it in 4 hours, then left even more time for self-doubt...
Actually, my question is I already torqued them to 56inlb yesterday (I drove 20 mils today no leaking so far), could I retorque them to 75inlb to prevent leaking? or this retorque could be a bad idea which will cause some leaking? (because FIPG already dried) what do you suggest to do?
53 in-lb is FSM spec. No need to tighten more than that. Over-torquing could snap the bolts, that would be bad. Toyota Engineers are pretty smart as well...
I'm not a Toyota technician, but I would go to the FSM spec and leave them. After a few months of driving, I would check them at the factory torque spec setting again.
The cover is held on by bolts with rubber crush washers to try to alleviate the over-torque scenario you are describing and all you would be doing is crushing those rubber washers further, (which is very common).
The cover is held on by bolts with rubber crush washers to try to alleviate the over-torque scenario you are describing and all you would be doing is crushing those rubber washers further, (which is very common).
I think when it loose after a well, we should change all the bolt with crush washers then re-torque them to spec, because the bolts are dirty cheap compare with other OEM parts...
Mine went 19 years on the stock gasket and stock crush washers with only a minor leak showing up a month before I replaced them. Like you are saying, I could probably have extended the OEM gasket with some new crush washers and retorquing them, but in my case replacing the gasket and spark plug tube gaskets was about a 2-3 hour project.
Y’all are forgetting the most important step . . .
Bolts - if they don’t come out easily, hit with a propane torch. The problem is corrosion (not that they are over-torqued). Use a wet rag to protect nearby wiring/hoses.
(Kind of) a vintage LC color. Increased the value by $2k right there.
Thanks for the write up man! Also, nice use of turnout pants lol I hope you removed the liners!
Hey guys I did something really dumb and need some advice. I did my valve cover gaskets today passenger side first then did the drivers side. After doing the driver side I realize I put the tube seals in the wrong way on the passenger side! When putting the plate back on I did make sure the tube seals did slip over the tubes before tightening down the bolts and everything fit ok. I won’t have time to repair this mistake until next weekend, is it ok to drive like this for the week??
Possibly dumb question. I did the passenger side a couple years ago and drained the oil first. About to do the driver side - do I actually need to drain the oil? Just changed it and I don’t have anything clean enough to drain it into and put it back.
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I'm having a similar issue - oil leaking from driver sade valve cover after changing valve cover gasket and spark plug tube gaskets. Took the valve cover back off and found the bottom bolt seemed to bee too tight and had crushed the bolt washers, plus there wasnt enough FIPG in the corner and part of the new valve cover gasket was mangled.
So I'm fixing all of that, but I want to make absolutely certain I get the torque on the valve cover bolts right --- how do you get a torque wrench on those last bottom rear bolts? My google skills are failing me. Any special tool or attachment I can get?
So I'm fixing all of that, but I want to make absolutely certain I get the torque on the valve cover bolts right --- how do you get a torque wrench on those last bottom rear bolts? My google skills are failing me. Any special tool or attachment I can get?
Completed PS last night. I did remove the half moons but not confident if I put enough FIPG (did not want to put too much so it does come out from side and go into the engine). We shall how it holds up. Spark plugs seals went in by hand after day in refrigerator. Thanks for the writeup.
Almost done with driver side. 1/4 worked better then 3/8. However one of the bolts for one of the attachments dropped into the bay, where the starter is. I tried to find it using light and magnet but no luck. Should I be worried about it ?
