100 Series Valve Cover Gasket WrIte up - 2001LC (2 Viewers)

[ffpmsam]

Hey all, I recently hit 295k on my 01 LC. My valve cover gaskets had been leaking pretty badly. Like a lot have suggested on here, I snugged the bolts up a little last fall and that did help bandaid the issue but I got it fixed right today. I went with a fel-pro gasket set from rock auto. Which if you don’t yet know, it’s easy to get 5% all parts at rock auto with a quick google search of a coupon code.

1 Remove engine cover. On passenger side remove air box vents And set aside
2 disconnect ignition coil wires, remove ignition coils.
3 Disconnect various vacuum tubing hoses gently and get them out of the way. DS requires removal of a small vacuum hose/electrical wire bracket.
4 loosen valve cover gasket bolts. 9 on each side
5 “pop” loose valve cover.
6 remove old gasket and spark plug grommets. Spark plug grommets areheld in place by a few tabs. Bend up the tabs and use a screw driver underneath to pop out.
7. Clean valve covers with some mild degreaser inside and out. I used a wire brush and simple green under warm water.
8. blow dry with air chuck or wipe dry.Get any goo/flakes of old oil you may have scraped off out of the inside.
9. using a paper towel wrapped over a flathead screwdriver, run the screwdriver through the gasket inlay to clean it out.
10. Replace grommets, tap tabs back down. replace valve cover gasket, replace valve cover bolts with new washer/grommets.
11. clean any dirt/leftover gasket offwhere the valve cover seals being carefulto get minimal dirt into the valves.
12. dab FIPG (form in place gasket) on the two half moons towards the firewall on each side. Dab FIPG on the corners towards the radiator as shown in pictures.
13 Carefully set valve cover gaskets In place, and press on seating the spark plug grommets/gasket correctly.
14. tighten in a “star” formation. Using your hand high on the ratchet (low torque) get them snug. Not sure of the torque spec on this, but it is not much at all.
15. Replace all vacuum tubing/ignition coils/brackets.

PS cover with grommets out. Note tabs bent up

Old grommet vs new. These were old grommets that had welded themselves in a little and broke apart upon takeout

Note all detached wires/tubing

A clean cover on the left vs a really oily one on the right

 

[ffpmsam]

...

A dirty DS cover that had been leaking for a while

Dirty cover after a bath and grommet replacement

PS after grommet replacement. Again note tabs replaced

FIPG at half moon seams

FIPG at corners towards front of vehicle

 

[ffpmsam]

...

For preparations sake, the drivers side is a wee bit more technical to get to and more brackets/tubing have to be removed.

The camera adds 10 pounds, but last but not least FIPG on the bottom corner

If anyone has better tips or anything I missed please share.

 

[StickyNotorious]

Thanks for the pics and write up. I'm right in the middle of this project myself.

Is there a trick to removing the old grommets from the valve cover? Mine seem welded in there real good and feels like I'm barely chipping them away.

 

[ffpmsam]

Thanks for the pics and write up. I'm right in the middle of this project myself.

Is there a trick to removing the old grommets from the valve cover? Mine seem welded in there real good and feels like I'm barely chipping them away.

sorry for the late reply, you have to bend those metal tabs up gently. Then I stuck a flatheadscrewdriver under and pried as Iworked it around. Should come out that way with a little elbow grease

 

[AlpineAccess]

Thanks for the pics and write up. I'm right in the middle of this project myself.

Is there a trick to removing the old grommets from the valve cover? Mine seem welded in there real good and feels like I'm barely chipping them away.

I use picks/hooks on ones that are super dried out. There is a metal ring inside of that grommet FYI so just get to the other side of it.

These work great. Mini Pick and Hook Set

 

[StickyNotorious]

Thanks, y'all. I managed to pry them out with my tiniest chisel.

Then I broke a bolt extractor off while trying to remove a broken bolt so I'm off to find a die grinder (or maybe a shop).

 

[OwnerCS]

A little trick that I learned years ago on replacing valve covers with this type of tube seal. Note that I haven't replaced the ones on a 2UZ yet.

My experiences are with a Toyota 5UZ and Nissan VQ30. They all look alike on the inside and use the same type of seal. I've done roughly 10 replacements over the years.

I put the tube seals in the freezer before installation so they will contract and be easy to install. Also, I run a thin film of SuperLube around the seal edge to keep it from pinching the seal during installation and to make sure the mating surface is smooth.

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

@StickyNotorious Hey man, I just snapped a very old bolt off in the 9-slot on the drivers side valve cover... do you have any advise/input on trying to get that out of there? I've never had to address something like this and figured see if you had any guidance. Thanks for any help!

 

[StickyNotorious]

@StickyNotorious Hey man, I just snapped a very old bolt off in the 9-slot on the drivers side valve cover... do you have any advise/input on trying to get that out of there? I've never had to address something like this and figured see if you had any guidance. Thanks for any help!

Don't use an extractor if you don't have any experience with them. If you break one off in there, it'll be an even bigger pain.

I had to buy a right angle drill to get in there and just drill it out. Use good drill bits. This is one of those "you get what you pay for" situations.

When I got it drilled out, I put a bolt through the new hole with a nut and lock washer on the bottom side. It's messy but it worked out for me.

It also helps to remove the wheel and the wheel well cover to get better access.

Good luck!

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

Don't use an extractor if you don't have any experience with them. If you break one off in there, it'll be an even bigger pain.

I had to buy a right angle drill to get in there and just drill it out. Use good drill bits. This is one of those "you get what you pay for" situations.

When I got it drilled out, I put a bolt through the new hole with a nut and lock washer on the bottom side. It's messy but it worked out for me.

It also helps to remove the wheel and the wheel well cover to get better access.

Good luck!

Really appreciate your time man, going to give it a shot this morning. I’ll follow up with the results.

 

[StickyNotorious]

Really appreciate your time man, going to give it a shot this morning. I’ll follow up with the results.

No problem at all.

You could also try a right angle drill attachment with some short bits.

take your time. If you get in a rush you will muck it up.

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

Big thank you for the intel here. Fortunately I snapped the bolt off just below the head with the valve cover already in place, meaning I the shaft of the bolt actually protruded from it's hole making the job effectively a non-issue. A little penetrating oil soaked in for a minute or two before trying anything, and backed right out just with fingers. Crisis averted, but I'm going to file this info away to deal with a front-middle skid plate bolt, bedded pretty deep in the frame but not yet rusting or anything.

Follow-up: Any intel on the torque specs for these valve cover bolts? I am leaving them effectively hand-tight for now to avoid anything difficult, but can't for the life of me find the information in the FSM.

Thanks a lot for the detailed documentation @ffpmsam

 

[StickyNotorious]

Big thank you for the intel here. Fortunately I snapped the bolt off just below the head with the valve cover already in place, meaning I the shaft of the bolt actually protruded from it's hole making the job effectively a non-issue. A little penetrating oil soaked in for a minute or two before trying anything, and backed right out just with fingers. Crisis averted, but I'm going to file this info away to deal with a front-middle skid plate bolt, bedded pretty deep in the frame but not yet rusting or anything.

Follow-up: Any intel on the torque specs for these valve cover bolts? I am leaving them effectively hand-tight for now to avoid anything difficult, but can't for the life of me find the information in the FSM.

Thanks a lot for the detailed documentation @ffpmsam

Glad you got it sorted out.
My Haynes manual says the torque is 6Nm.

 

[gregnash]

Glad you got it sorted out.
My Haynes manual says the torque is 6Nm.

There is a thread floating around with the FSMs linked. But I remember this being something that was basically just "snug" for torque wise.

 

[AlpineAccess]

I think I started with something like 50 in/lbs but it felt too light - settled on all of them at 75 in/lbs. No leaks.

 

[mobi-arc]

250,000 miles, valve gasket replacement, this is what my view was,.....might consider changing lubricants

 

[zhloea]

I think I started with something like 50 in/lbs but it felt too light - settled on all of them at 75 in/lbs. No leaks.

Should we come back check and re-torque them regularly after some driving?

will that 75in/lbs prevent them to loosen again?

I torqued them with 56in/lbs, I worried that they will come to loosen again after some driving

...I complete both sides finally today. When I start to open them, thees bolts are loosen as my belly..., I don't even need to turn them seems like it start to move when I just put the socket on...

 

[AlpineAccess]

Should we come back check and re-torque them regularly after some driving?

will that 75in/lbs prevent them to loosen again?

I torqued them with 56in/lbs, I worried that they will come to loosen again after some driving

...I complete both sides finally today. When I start to open them, thees bolts are loosen as my belly..., I don't even need to turn them seems like it start to move when I just put the socket on...

Its a good question, I set mine and haven't messed with them in about 15k. No play when checked.

Yours shouldn't be finger right if you set the claw washer.

EDIT: I linked to this from my notifications and responded while half asleep. At the time I gave advice on wheel bearings, sorry!

No, you do not need to re-torque valve cover gaskets if you have them set and they aren't leaking.

 

[zhloea]

Its a good question, I set mine and haven't messed with them in about 15k. No play when checked.

Yours shouldn't be finger right if you set the claw washer.

Thanks for the reply. I have another interesting question. I saw some exceed sealer on the edge of the valve cover, I just curious that if one piece gasket sealler drops into the valve cover over time, what gonna happen? will it destroy the engine？ you know they are quite soft...