100 series sleeping setup?

[peskywombats]

Where are you getting the long shipping containers. I think I can fit my High Lift jack in there. Nice set up

So I got my setup dialed. It's a tad rudimentary, but totally stable, portable, affordable and versatile. Steel pipe with flanges serve as the feet, and that way I can take them off to store the deck flat when out of the truck. I can also use my backpacking pads instead of this one when going solo, leave on side of the seats folded up for even more room. Keep it simple, kids.

 

[terrapin]

Where are you getting the long shipping containers. I think I can fit my High Lift jack in there. Nice set up

They are Buckhorn brand and I got them from zoro.com. I like these in particular because they have a smooth bottom and slide in and out easily. Some others have an "egg crate" type bottom which I suppose is stronger, but might not slide as well. I have two, but really only use one. I leave the other side open for my folding table and other items.

Yikes, they are twice what I paid for them in 2019!

Buckhorn Straight Wall Container, Gray, Polyethylene, 48 in L, 15 in W, 7 1/2 in H SW4815080201000 | Zoro

Order Buckhorn Straight Wall Container, Gray, Polyethylene, 48 in L, 15 in W, 7 1/2 in H, SW4815080201000 at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.

www.zoro.com

 

[peskywombats]

Those containers are a great option, thanks for the heads up.

 

[jahawk]

Heck yes. Killer price also.

 

[hatchethead]

I built this simple table.

 

[100d ua]

If you think Air Down Gear Up products are simply a few aluminum extrusions I welcome you to explore our catalog a bit more thoroughly.

Also, assuming we're talking about reputable manufacturers (80/20, Tnutz, Bosch, etc...) aluminum extrusion is awesome stuff regardless of where it's smelted/extruded. When used properly it's incredibly strong and versatile. Perhaps you had some non-standard stuff before everyone standardized on the 80-20 dims?

Not that 80/20 needs any defending, but it's EVERYWHERE in industrial settings. It's used to construct most all automation cells in the world to hold up walls, fixtures, robots, etc... It's definitely not just some cheap junk for some signage frames.



Yup. With most any product you purchase today, you're paying for the maker to create more value than the sum of its parts. You *can* DIY nearly anything in 2021 assuming you have first world income and access to YouTube. That doesn't mean you should DIY everything.

The "cheap junk" you're referring to for "signage frames" is actually used in the construction of overhead hanging signs for convention centers, malls, retail stores, airports and so on. All of the material we use is certified and inspected by teams of engineers to ensure the safety of the thousands of people that walk underneath or on top of the projects we design and construct. So yes, I do know a little something about extrusion

Therefore, $850 plus shipping for a relatively remedial extrusion exoskeleton and piano hinge plywood top is the reason people in here slapped some 2x4s together with some tools and hardware from Home Depot for a fraction of the price.

Sure, you can buy a shed or just build one yourself. But that's what separates the people in here that take pride in the value of their abilities and craftsmanship as opposed to the ones that solve their inconveniences with the swipe of a credit card.

 

[AlpineAccess]

The "cheap junk" you're referring to for "signage frames" is actually used in the construction of overhead hanging signs for convention centers, malls, retail stores, airports and so on. All of the material we use is certified and inspected by teams of engineers to ensure the safety of the thousands of people that walk underneath or on top of the projects we design and construct. So yes, I do know a little something about extrusion

Therefore, $850 plus shipping for a relatively remedial extrusion exoskeleton and piano hinge plywood top is the reason people in here slapped some 2x4s together with some tools and hardware from Home Depot for a fraction of the price.

Sure, you can buy a shed or just build one yourself. But that's what separates the people in here that take pride in the value of their abilities and craftsmanship as opposed to the ones that solve their inconveniences with the swipe of a credit card.

I built my own drawers and still think ADGU makes a nice product.

It's not necessary to insult anyone on this forum who's bought a burger because they didn't want to raise the cow.

 

[squeezer]

Digging up an old thread...

Planning a trip this summer with my son. The RTT won’t work on the trails so it’s time to add a sleeping platform to Atilla ( The HUNdy)

There is already a rear platform that was built for the dog and has served its purpose for over a decade.

Looking to extend it to full bed length...

Current thinking is:

Remove middle row.

Build fore/aft supports that screws into existing side panels and have fold down legs.

Cross supports are IKEA style slats connected by webbing


The goal is minimum weight, the ability to break it down and get it mostly out of the way (The current platform sits flat on the floor between the sides if necessary), and easy storage when not in use.

Thoughts and comments please.

.

 

[Mike NXP]

Digging up an old thread...

Planning a trip this summer with my son. The RTT won’t work on the trails so it’s time to add a sleeping platform to Atilla ( The HUNdy)

There is already a rear platform that was built for the dog and has served its purpose for over a decade.

Looking to extend it to full bed length...

Current thinking is:

Remove middle row.

Build fore/aft supports that screws into existing side panels and have fold down legs.

Cross supports are IKEA style slats connected by webbing


The goal is minimum weight, the ability to break it down and get it mostly out of the way (The current platform sits flat on the floor between the sides if necessary), and easy storage when not in use.

Thoughts and comments please.

.View attachment 2946484View attachment 2946485

This is the second row delete from Air Down Gear Up. Although your wood setup may not pair nicely with the t-slot extrusion.

 

[AlpineAccess]

Digging up an old thread...

Planning a trip this summer with my son. The RTT won’t work on the trails so it’s time to add a sleeping platform to Atilla ( The HUNdy)

There is already a rear platform that was built for the dog and has served its purpose for over a decade.

Looking to extend it to full bed length...

Current thinking is:

Remove middle row.

Build fore/aft supports that screws into existing side panels and have fold down legs.

Cross supports are IKEA style slats connected by webbing


The goal is minimum weight, the ability to break it down and get it mostly out of the way (The current platform sits flat on the floor between the sides if necessary), and easy storage when not in use.

Thoughts and comments please.

.View attachment 2946484View attachment 2946485

I spend around 15-20 nights a year in the cruiser, 10 of them my wife and dog are along. We use a Megamat, its comfortable and you don't feel the other person moving around too much. I reduced our drawer system from the height that matched the rear seats being folded down (around 11"?) to 7.5" this last summer. We have just over 6" tall drawers, which is less functional compared to how they were previously, but still work really well for what we put in them.

To make this work the rear seats came out and I built a 60/40 split platform that goes in depending on which seats we need and how many people are going to be on the trip. It made the vehicle a LOT more comfortable to sleep in to have the extra headroom for sitting up. With the platform in the mattress will fit all the way to the tailgate with no issues.

I have a set of window screens that I made for the windows, which go on the outside. I have also seen people use gutter guard and cut it out and then roll the windows up on it to serve as a vent for sleeping.

The last addition is that unlike others who have a permanently affixed awning, I don't like having stuff on my roof. I have a full summer of use on our Slumberjack Roadhouse Tarp, and its been awesome. It goes off the back of the vehicle where we do 90% of our cooking, getting in and out, and find that we have clear space in the areas we camp.

Roadhouse Tarp: its nice because you can detach it from the vehicle if needed, or put it off the rear, the side, the front...string it up between two vehicles, etc.

Slumberjack Roadhouse Tarp & Camp Awning - Full Review

Slumberjack Roadhouse Tarp offers a cheaper alternative to maximize shade coverage and protection from the outdoor elements while camping

trail4runner.com

 

[Mike NXP]

I spend around 15-20 nights a year in the cruiser, 10 of them my wife and dog are along. We use a Megamat, its comfortable and you don't feel the other person moving around too much. I reduced our drawer system from the height that matched the rear seats being folded down (around 11"?) to 7.5" this last summer. We have just over 6" tall drawers, which is less functional compared to how they were previously, but still work really well for what we put in them.

To make this work the rear seats came out and I built a 60/40 split platform that goes in depending on which seats we need and how many people are going to be on the trip. It made the vehicle a LOT more comfortable to sleep in to have the extra headroom for sitting up. With the platform in the mattress will fit all the way to the tailgate with no issues.

I have a set of window screens that I made for the windows, which go on the outside. I have also seen people use gutter guard and cut it out and then roll the windows up on it to serve as a vent for sleeping.

The last addition is that unlike others who have a permanently affixed awning, I don't like having stuff on my roof. I have a full summer of use on our Slumberjack Roadhouse Tarp, and its been awesome. It goes off the back of the vehicle where we do 90% of our cooking, getting in and out, and find that we have clear space in the areas we camp.

View attachment 2946628

View attachment 2946629

View attachment 2946630

Roadhouse Tarp: its nice because you can detach it from the vehicle if needed, or put it off the rear, the side, the front...string it up between two vehicles, etc.

Slumberjack Roadhouse Tarp & Camp Awning - Full Review

Slumberjack Roadhouse Tarp offers a cheaper alternative to maximize shade coverage and protection from the outdoor elements while camping

trail4runner.com

+1 for the slumber jack. I also prefer to not permanently fix anything as the need for gear is always changing based on the trip.

 

[Snow Wagon]

Time to bring this thread back to life...

I've read through the entire thread a few times, but my needs are a little different.
My build is all about a temporary sleeping platform for 2 people (5' 10" and 5' 2").
I'd like something that can relatively easily be taken in and out, and I'd like to maximize headroom.
I'm hoping someone can help me out with some measurements, since my LX is in Denver and I'm in Pittsburgh.
My goal is to plan and order everything, then build it when I'm out west in a few weeks.

In the winter, and sometimes in the summer, I need to be able to seat 6 people.
In the summer for camping, just 2 max.

The 40% 2nd row seat is already out (semi-permanently), and I'm planning on removing the 60% one when I need to put the sleeping platform in.

Does anyone know the minimum height the bottom of the platform needs to be to clear the wheel wheels?
One post mentioned 7 1/2".
Should I make all of the legs in the back the same height or do I need adjustable feet because the cargo area isn't perfectly flat?

If I make the legs in the back 7 1/2", does anyone know how long the legs in the front (just behind the front seats) need to be?
Basically, I need to know the approximate difference in height between the back legs and the legs that will be in the very front.

I'm thinking of making 2 platforms.
One that covers everything behind the 2nd row seats.
One that covers where the 2nd row seats would be.
Therefore, if I want to use the rear platform for some extra storage when I won't be sleeping in the LX, I can.

Anyone know approximately how long each platform should / will be?
I'm thinking they'll each be about 40" (tailgate to behind 2nd row seats and behind 2nd row seats to behind front seats).

Anyone know approximately how wide each platform should be?
I plan on building the platform to follow the contours of the inside sides of the LX.
Trying to figure out if I need to order more than (1) 4' x 8' sheet of 1/2" cabinet grade plywood.

For ease of storage (when it's not in the LX), I'd like to make each of the 2 platforms in 2 pieces, with each piece hinged in the middle.
So the 2nd row platform would have a drivers side and passenger side.
Same with the rear platform.
The measurements will help me determine how long my hinges need to be.

My thought is to have the plywood "easily" separate from the frame for storage.
I'm thinking the frame would have some hinges as well, so it folds / disassembles to a reasonable size.

Rear will be secured to the (4) factory floor D rings, the front will be secured to the 2nd row seat brackets (or a bracket that I install in their place).

Once I complete my build, I'll share detailed dimensions, parts, materials, etc.
This may be helpful to someone in the future.

Thank you in advance for taking some measurements!
Tom

 

[jackhossross]

I'll grab a photo of my setup for my family of 4 and two dogs .. although my family will be a family of 5 come November .. not sure what I'll do then.

 

[JerrySM]

I put together a simple platform even with the wheel wells and threw on a  actual full mattress, which was, IMO, infinitely more comfortable than the RTT I used to own.

 

[hoser]

Time to bring this thread back to life...

I've read through the entire thread a few times, but my needs are a little different.
My build is all about a temporary sleeping platform for 2 people (5' 10" and 5' 2").
I'd like something that can relatively easily be taken in and out, and I'd like to maximize headroom.
I'm hoping someone can help me out with some measurements, since my LX is in Denver and I'm in Pittsburgh.
My goal is to plan and order everything, then build it when I'm out west in a few weeks.

In the winter, and sometimes in the summer, I need to be able to seat 6 people.
In the summer for camping, just 2 max.

The 40% 2nd row seat is already out (semi-permanently), and I'm planning on removing the 60% one when I need to put the sleeping platform in.

Does anyone know the minimum height the bottom of the platform needs to be to clear the wheel wheels?
One post mentioned 7 1/2".
Should I make all of the legs in the back the same height or do I need adjustable feet because the cargo area isn't perfectly flat?

If I make the legs in the back 7 1/2", does anyone know how long the legs in the front (just behind the front seats) need to be?
Basically, I need to know the approximate difference in height between the back legs and the legs that will be in the very front.

I'm thinking of making 2 platforms.
One that covers everything behind the 2nd row seats.
One that covers where the 2nd row seats would be.
Therefore, if I want to use the rear platform for some extra storage when I won't be sleeping in the LX, I can.

Anyone know approximately how long each platform should / will be?
I'm thinking they'll each be about 40" (tailgate to behind 2nd row seats and behind 2nd row seats to behind front seats).

Anyone know approximately how wide each platform should be?
I plan on building the platform to follow the contours of the inside sides of the LX.
Trying to figure out if I need to order more than (1) 4' x 8' sheet of 1/2" cabinet grade plywood.

For ease of storage (when it's not in the LX), I'd like to make each of the 2 platforms in 2 pieces, with each piece hinged in the middle.
So the 2nd row platform would have a drivers side and passenger side.
Same with the rear platform.
The measurements will help me determine how long my hinges need to be.

My thought is to have the plywood "easily" separate from the frame for storage.
I'm thinking the frame would have some hinges as well, so it folds / disassembles to a reasonable size.

Rear will be secured to the (4) factory floor D rings, the front will be secured to the 2nd row seat brackets (or a bracket that I install in their place).

Once I complete my build, I'll share detailed dimensions, parts, materials, etc.
This may be helpful to someone in the future.

Thank you in advance for taking some measurements!
Tom

Perhaps this.... the plans tell you exactly what you need. It's not designed for maximum height but the lower the platform, the less the storage (underneath). Easy to remove too.

100 Series Land Cruiser / Lexus LX470 Platform Build Manual

Our cost-effective and customizable 100 Series / LX470 platform offers: Increased storage…Nearly doubles your cargo area with a design that’s more versatile than drawers and still keeps your valuable gear out-of-sight and out-of-mind. A sleeping platform…Fold the second row seats and flip the...

gxbasecamp.com

 

[suprarx7nut]

Time to bring this thread back to life...

I've read through the entire thread a few times, but my needs are a little different.
My build is all about a temporary sleeping platform for 2 people (5' 10" and 5' 2").
I'd like something that can relatively easily be taken in and out, and I'd like to maximize headroom.
I'm hoping someone can help me out with some measurements, since my LX is in Denver and I'm in Pittsburgh.
My goal is to plan and order everything, then build it when I'm out west in a few weeks.

In the winter, and sometimes in the summer, I need to be able to seat 6 people.
In the summer for camping, just 2 max.

The 40% 2nd row seat is already out (semi-permanently), and I'm planning on removing the 60% one when I need to put the sleeping platform in.

Does anyone know the minimum height the bottom of the platform needs to be to clear the wheel wheels?
One post mentioned 7 1/2".
Should I make all of the legs in the back the same height or do I need adjustable feet because the cargo area isn't perfectly flat?

If I make the legs in the back 7 1/2", does anyone know how long the legs in the front (just behind the front seats) need to be?
Basically, I need to know the approximate difference in height between the back legs and the legs that will be in the very front.

I'm thinking of making 2 platforms.
One that covers everything behind the 2nd row seats.
One that covers where the 2nd row seats would be.
Therefore, if I want to use the rear platform for some extra storage when I won't be sleeping in the LX, I can.

Anyone know approximately how long each platform should / will be?
I'm thinking they'll each be about 40" (tailgate to behind 2nd row seats and behind 2nd row seats to behind front seats).

Anyone know approximately how wide each platform should be?
I plan on building the platform to follow the contours of the inside sides of the LX.
Trying to figure out if I need to order more than (1) 4' x 8' sheet of 1/2" cabinet grade plywood.

For ease of storage (when it's not in the LX), I'd like to make each of the 2 platforms in 2 pieces, with each piece hinged in the middle.
So the 2nd row platform would have a drivers side and passenger side.
Same with the rear platform.
The measurements will help me determine how long my hinges need to be.

My thought is to have the plywood "easily" separate from the frame for storage.
I'm thinking the frame would have some hinges as well, so it folds / disassembles to a reasonable size.

Rear will be secured to the (4) factory floor D rings, the front will be secured to the 2nd row seat brackets (or a bracket that I install in their place).

Once I complete my build, I'll share detailed dimensions, parts, materials, etc.
This may be helpful to someone in the future.

Thank you in advance for taking some measurements!
Tom

Just an FYI, there's a company in Denver that specializes in an easily removed, convertible sleeper that retains use of the 2nd row like normal.

If cash is a concern or if you're so inclined to spend a weekend or two making your own, here's my input:

Wheel well clearance is a little over 7.5" in the 100, I'm pretty sure. Our kitchen module is 7" tall ish, and needs to contour around the wheel well.

A 4x8 could be enough, pending how you cut it. Our platform is wider than 48", but obviously you won't use 8' in length so you can borrow from the length to widen the platform.

Dividing the system down the middle is wise.

We made a shorter 10" version and a 7" version for a couple custom orders. That height is still too short to really sit up, so the feedback we've had is that the 2nd row seatback height is ideal. Gets you more storage underneath and a flat sleeping area with the 2nd row left in.

The current version we sell for the 100 has anchor bars, but we sold a turnbuckle version for a long time (and could still provide that if desired).

 

[Mike NXP]

^^^^ This would be my vote as well. As someone who came from using a futon, then building a DIY and eventually realizing nothing come close to a CNC cut piece of material that is built solid. I'm sure some people are more handy and have more tools than me and could pull it off but the AirDown GearUp sleeper is the s***. I've got a drawer on one side as well.

This is based on no evidence at all, but I would say it has the most volume of space to store stuff compared to any other platform / sleeper setup. Once the second row is removed it's pretty wild how much stuff I can fit under there.

I go from second row delete all summer for camping back to just a trunk platform in the winter when hauling people around and snow boarding. I can pull the entire thing out in a few minutes if needed.


All of my photos suck but phase 1, 2, and 3 below. I kind of liked the futon setup, $99 from walmart, done and done =]

Dog chill spot down below

 

[Snow Wagon]

Hello All,
Thank you hoser, suprarx7nut, and others for your responses and good info.
Both the GX Basecamp and ADGU platforms are really good options, but I need something that's going to easily break down to be as flat as possible (storage / space is at a premium in the condo...).
If I didn't like custom designing a solution for myself, I'd absolutely reach out to ADGU and write a check.

I decided to purchase the GX Basecamp instructions, mostly to verify that my design was solid / sound.
It was worth the money / investment and I've now got my plans more or less finalized.

I'm going to build 4 platforms (driver front, driver rear, passenger front, passenger rear), each approximately 26" x 40".
Each will have hinged inset 1/2" baltic birch plywood, similar to the GX Basecamp design.
For ease of setup / breakdown. my 16 legs will each be installed with 1 "large" bolt thru the end of a tapped 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" extrusion thru a joining plate.
When broken down for storage, there will be (4) 26" x 40" x ~1 1/2" panels + (16) legs.
This should easily store under a bed.

Setup / breakdown will just be installing the 16 legs with 16 bolts, installing 4 joining plates to attach the 4 platforms together, and 4 turnbuckles.
Should be about 15 minutes for setup and 10 for breakdown.

I'll send pictures in a couple weeks when it's been built.

Thank you.
Tom

 

[Yubstheewalk]

I just recently built a bed for my 100 series. I used 3/4 in plywood for the top sheet and 2 by 4 for the base. In the end, I wrapped the whole thing in an all-weather carpet and glued and stapled it down. The frame is about 1ft tall so I can lay the board across my seats. The bed fits in the back of the car with the seats up and when I lay them down the piece of plywood hinges down. There is a gap between the end of the board and the front sets, but jamming some bags and pillows made it work great.

 

[Mike NXP]

I just recently built a bed for my 100 series. I used 3/4 in plywood for the top sheet and 2 by 4 for the base. In the end, I wrapped the whole thing in an all-weather carpet and glued and stapled it down. The frame is about 1ft tall so I can lay the board across my seats. The bed fits in the back of the car with the seats up and when I lay them down the piece of plywood hinges down. There is a gap between the end of the board and the front sets, but jamming some bags and pillows made it work great.

View attachment 3686556

View attachment 3686557

View attachment 3686558

View attachment 3686559

View attachment 3686560

Looks great, do you use the back seat often ? Setting them aside and taking advantage of the extra space down there is awesome especially if your going to use the top up for sleeping and need space for gear

The seat pop out really easily but then you'd need to rig up some support up front for your platform.