Nice @changingground! If you look closely he used some 30x60 size extrusion for added strength (#30-3060). These are a little more than twice the cost of regular 30x30 extrusions. Black anodized is another twice the cost above that, but looks great.
100 series roof rack
- Thread starter hkl0000
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Nice @changingground! If you look closely he used some 30x60 size extrusion for added strength (#30-3060). These are a little more than twice the cost of regular 30x30 extrusions. Black anodized is another twice the cost above that, but looks great.
This is almost exactly what I am planning to do. Would you mind posting the lengths of your extrusion pieces?
For everyone curious about details- my racknis constructed with the 1" x 2" ribbed pieces with 2- 1" angle brackets at each joint. Cross bars are also 1x2 ribbed, 48.5" long. Side rails are as long as I could fit and still have room for the fairing in front and so that the wing in back doesn't hit. I'm not exactly sure of the length, but it might be 80". They're plenty strong, but if you're worried there's a chart with yield values on the T-nutz site. The fairing is 1/8" alum treadplate. I bent up brackets from same and pop-riveted them on. Roof curve is not right (my error) but I don't have any wind noise anymore, either. As with most projects, if I did v.2 it would be more refined, but this gets the job done well enough.
@hkl0000... Having owned BajaRack, ARB, Thule, ProSpeed and the cheapo way...
You can get something like this:
With these bards:
Amazon product ASIN B074NWGY11
These are the bars I have and they are great for the RRT.
You can get something like this:
With these bards:
Amazon product ASIN B074NWGY11
These are the bars I have and they are great for the RRT.
Nice! How's the wind noise?
I don't hear anything. Never noticed any difference.
CasaDeChaos
SILVER Star
I'm considering something exactly like this. How did you attach the towers to the extrusions?
The towers have bolt holes that face up, allowing you to use TNutz fasteners (a cap headed machine screw and a slot nut) to attach them. I don’t have any on hand,
But these are screen grabs from their website. It’s quite simple. Getting everything tight and lined up properly is a bit fiddley, and I found lubricating the machine screw threads helped a lot.
CasaDeChaos
SILVER Star
Awesome, thanks!! So one could make the rack wider than the factory mount holes.
Absolutely LOVING the name of the rig! LOL Digging the fairing as well.
Yep. I sized mine at 48.5“, but it could have been 58 , or Whatever serves your need.
I had a Fronteunner for two years but the rattling and the wind noise drove me crazy (crazier, let’s say). So a year ago, I got a Baja and I love it. It’s lower profile, makes no noise and it has a cut out for the sunroof which is a nice perk.
Do you recall which t-slot nuts you used in the stock roofrack rails? Just curious, i've thought about doing the exact same thing to my truck. Stock side rails are plenty strong enough, getting the bars a little lower with a fairing in front would be awesome.
Nice @changingground! If you look closely he used some 30x60 size extrusion for added strength (#30-3060). These are a little more than twice the cost of regular 30x30 extrusions. Black anodized is another twice the cost above that, but looks great.
Those only add minimal added strength (bending resistance) in the vertical plane. They have the basically the same MOI in the vertical plane when oriented like that as the regular 3030 section. They have much more strength in the horizontal (fore/ aft) plane though. You'd have to orient the 3060 rotated 90 deg from where it is right now if you want more vertical bending resistance. Or use the 6060 section.
Yep, you cannot even see the rack on top unless you pay close attention (even less noticable if you have the black anodized extrusions) Use the 30 series t-nuts for securing the bracket to the extrusion, but you can use 45 series t-nut for the bracket to the stock roofrack rails as the opening is bigger. It won't hurt to use the 30 series all around, but you can go bigger and be more secure with the 45 series t-nuts to the rails. These style of t-nuts have a step in them so you know they are perpendicular to the extrusion when you tighten them and grip to secure. These are the best so we use these style of t-nuts to assemble machines as work. If you are using stainless steel hardware go with 30 series SS t-nuts & 45 series SS t-nuts (cost is $2.00 each vs $.74 for steel).
I agree with you that the horizontal strength is much much more vs. the vertical. However, the vertical strength of the 30x60 is still 2x as much as the regular 30x30 extrusion as it's like putting two 30x30 extrusions side by side. The MOI in the vertical plane is 5.4 vs 2.7 on their website.
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I really like your rack idea. What length are the extrustions? Is this on a 100 series cruiser? Do you know if the standard extrusions can be painted black with no issues? Thanks for your help.
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Yes this is on a 100 series, this is the forum for this right lol. Between stock rails is 45", so go 44.75". You could paint them but it will scratch off when you load and unload stuff on the extrusions. If you are going black do the black anodize coating or else I wouldn't advise painting them. The regular silver extrusions are already clear anodized, so it is already abrasion and corosion resistant.
Just randomly asking anyone here have a set of crossbars for lx470 2001 for sale? Thanks
