100 series pad question for my 94 fj80

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Im just finishing a knuckle rebuild on my 94 FJ 80 and am putting the 100 series pads on...however....I cant seem to get the pad to fit in the inside part of the caliper..Ive pushed the (i forget what you call em) all the way in...nothing. So I got a bright idea to loosen the caliper and slide the pad in.

Everything is tightened up but now I cant make the rotor turn freely.. to much pressure form the inside pad.. Outside pads went in fine.

Im not sure why the pads dont fit..all part #'s have been cross checked and my rig is a 94 (10/93 production).

Should I let the pad wear in? I havent put the tires on yet, but I'm pretty sure the rotor will turn under power.

Has anyone else had this problem?

Will this work itself out as I run it or will II set the brakes on fire?

Let me know what ya'll think

Thanks,

Doogie

94 FJ80
206,000 mi and going strong
 
I think you'll ruin the rotor before it wears in.
 
The bits that move in are called pistons.
If you havent already remove the anti squeal plates from all the pads and try again.
Running the truck in an effort to bed you pads as it currently is will only break things.
They are a tightish fit but you should be able to move them by hand when you're finished.
Retorque the caliper bolts before you refit the pads and please use a torque wrench, you dont want these coming loose.
What size wheel rims is your truck running, 15" or 16"?
 
Thanks for the input so far . I knew they were pistons, I just couldn't think of it while I'm half po'ed and covered in grease. :)

Anyway Im taking your advice and pulling the 100 series pads and replacing with NAPA ceramix..I'v ran them for 7 or 8 years no problem. Maybe when the rotors wear a bit I'll put them back in.

The weird thing about this is it's only the drivers side inside that wont fit..no problem with pax. I don't know what to make of it.

All bolts are tourqed to specs.

Next I'm going to tackle my leaky oil pan. Can't wait :(


Doogie
 
The 100 series pads fit fine without the shims on new OEM rotors. I had a hard time getting both inside and outside pistons compressed at the same time. I think there are special tools out there to do this more effectively but if you use a big C-clamp like I did you just have to compress them very slowly so the opposite piton doesn't push back out. The pads are made to be replaced while leaving the caliper on so if you can't do that then you have to work on getting your pitons all the way compressed. You definitely want to be able to turn your rotors after the new pads are in.
 
A minute and a half on the random orbital sander and mine fit fine. YMMV.
 
With fresh OEM rotors and pistons fully compressed, I had to remove ~.050" of pad (big belt sander) before they would fit on my '94. What's worst, they wouldn't stop my rig worth a crap. It was a huge downgrade in braking performance. I pulled them and went back to the 80 pads and restored braking performance. YMMV.
 

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