- Thread starter
- #41
Thanks much!
Enjoy your ride. And yes to the garage thing! I'd have a roof rack on mine if it'd fit!
100-series modification differences and evaluations (by John Shotts): (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ShottsUZJ100
- Start date
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Thanks much!
Enjoy your ride. And yes to the garage thing! I'd have a roof rack on mine if it'd fit!
Great piece of work! ...appreciate all the info and pictures, so much so that I hate to ask for anything else 
.
I noticed the poll at the top of your thread, and thought how great it would be to create a parts list for each of the following levels of modification;
Extreme - you covered that very well already
Aggressive -
Moderate -
I noticed most folks fall in the aggressive/ moderate level, as I do. My interest is to be able to handle moderate off road conditions, but still be able to get out of trouble... also, I tow a boat regularily, and an improved rear suspension would be very desirable!
I have an 02 LC100 and I'm thinking a 2" lift, 33" BFG tires and new springs & shocks, but you submitted alot of info to sift through and I don't know what the ideal parts list would look like for this set-up.
When you have time, your help would be much appreciated!
Rick
.I noticed the poll at the top of your thread, and thought how great it would be to create a parts list for each of the following levels of modification;
Extreme - you covered that very well already
Aggressive -
Moderate -
I noticed most folks fall in the aggressive/ moderate level, as I do. My interest is to be able to handle moderate off road conditions, but still be able to get out of trouble... also, I tow a boat regularily, and an improved rear suspension would be very desirable!
I have an 02 LC100 and I'm thinking a 2" lift, 33" BFG tires and new springs & shocks, but you submitted alot of info to sift through and I don't know what the ideal parts list would look like for this set-up.
When you have time, your help would be much appreciated!
Rick
- Thread starter
- #43
Great piece of work! ...appreciate all the info and pictures, so much so that I hate to ask for anything else
I noticed the poll at the top of your thread, and thought how great it would be to create a parts list for each of the following levels of modification;
Extreme - you covered that very well already
Aggressive -
Moderate -
I noticed most folks fall in the aggressive/ moderate level, as I do. My interest is to be able to handle moderate off road conditions, but still be able to get out of trouble... also, I tow a boat regularily, and an improved rear suspension would be very desirable!
I have an 02 LC100 and I'm thinking a 2" lift, 33" BFG tires and new springs & shocks, but you submitted alot of info to sift through and I don't know what the ideal parts list would look like for this set-up.
When you have time, your help would be much appreciated!
Rick
Thanks for your post Rick. I think the typical OME Lift (2") along with the Slee Diff Drop and 285-size tires would be perfect for you. Info on Slee's site.
Slee - Toyota 100 Series Land Cruiser Suspension
ARB1032 will do the trick.
Then, for towing, you might want to add airbags. Search the MUD sight for info on this. I'm an airbag dummy.
interior
first of all gorgeous truck Shotts, you have all of the exterior mods taken care of but i was wondering what if anything you have going on on the inside?
first of all gorgeous truck Shotts, you have all of the exterior mods taken care of but i was wondering what if anything you have going on on the inside?
- Thread starter
- #47
Thanks guys! In 2011 though there's a lot more deluxe builds than mine out there!
stinkyfj60
SILVER Star
I want my 100 to be an adventure vehicle for the family (my future wife and my two daughters). it needs to be comfortable and capable.
i havent started the mods yet...
i havent started the mods yet...
Aids10
xploraz.net
Terrific Pics! Riverock Green Mica (Ivory Interior) 100 Series would make a great pair with the 40th.
You need a blog
THX M8
You need a blog
THX M8
Since my family is growing, i'm leaving my very built 09 FJ and going with something larger. I've been on the fence about whether to get an 80 or 100 for a while now but lately have been leaning more toward the 100. After reading your build thread and your experiences, I'm pretty confident that my decision has been made. I'm glad i read this thread. Perhaps i've missed it, but here are two questions for you.
1. Did you find the need to change your UCA's?
There just doesn't seem to be as many people making UCA's/suspension parts for the 100 as there are for say the FJ. It's been difficult for me to find manufacturers. Mud search has proven to be a useful tool, but very tedious i admit.
2. What kind of skids are you using?
If he'd make them, i'd totally buy budbuilt skids. Unfortunately, he doesn't. Which leaves me to find a set. Once again, not as many manufacturers.
Very nice truck and very well planned out.
1. Did you find the need to change your UCA's?
There just doesn't seem to be as many people making UCA's/suspension parts for the 100 as there are for say the FJ. It's been difficult for me to find manufacturers. Mud search has proven to be a useful tool, but very tedious i admit.
2. What kind of skids are you using?
If he'd make them, i'd totally buy budbuilt skids. Unfortunately, he doesn't. Which leaves me to find a set. Once again, not as many manufacturers.
Very nice truck and very well planned out.
- Thread starter
- #51
Since my family is growing, i'm leaving my very built 09 FJ and going with something larger. I've been on the fence about whether to get an 80 or 100 for a while now but lately have been leaning more toward the 100. After reading your build thread and your experiences, I'm pretty confident that my decision has been made. I'm glad i read this thread. Perhaps i've missed it, but here are two questions for you.
1. Did you find the need to change your UCA's?
There just doesn't seem to be as many people making UCA's/suspension parts for the 100 as there are for say the FJ. It's been difficult for me to find manufacturers. Mud search has proven to be a useful tool, but very tedious i admit.
2. What kind of skids are you using?
If he'd make them, i'd totally buy budbuilt skids. Unfortunately, he doesn't. Which leaves me to find a set. Once again, not as many manufacturers.
Very nice truck and very well planned out.
Thanks! And if you make the move to a 100 you WILL be happy for certain.
1. In it's current state I would never consider using a revised UCA. The benefits are miniscule while the cost is high. I also believe you compromise durability (on the 100) because of the OEM design vs the UCA changing the CV droop and angle. I will not do anything on my 100 to risk durability unless the gains are HIGH and NECESSARY for what I do with the truck. Adding one-inch travel to the front adds almost nothing in capability. You want travel...add 2.6" to the rear via N74L shocks and the cost is a few bucks. You will blow away folks on the flex tests who have non-L's in the rear and UCA's in the front. You will keep the wheels down way more than they.
That said...IF a kit came along (ala last Grand Cherokee) that included new control arm(s), other bits, AND NEW KNUCKLES (knuckles being the key)...basically a kit that lifts say 4" and addresses everything "together"...I'll buy ASAP! Adding just an UCA...NO WAY.
2. I've got by with the factory skids though they've been banged out many times. When I get into a bad situation I always get a spot and crawl carefully. I'm not thrilled with the idea of adding even more weight via steel skids. The IFS and truck overall are maxed out in my opinion. For somebody else...those steel skids might be a must.
- Thread starter
- #52
LONG PAST-DUE UPDATE TO THIS THREAD:
PERFECT TIMING! Having replaced every other bushing under the rear of my 100, the lower arms bushings were finally gone as well. You should hear it articulate! EEK! So, the plan was to buy a set of Slee HD Lower Control Arms for the 80-series and install them onto the 100. This would require buying 80-series bolts, washers, and nuts as the 100 takes a smaller bolt-set. Then, to fit, we'd need to drill out the holes on the four arm mounts to 80-series size so the hardware fits. (Easy) The day I was going to order Slee's I seen the review of Wild West Fab's new high-clearance arms in 4WD Toyota Owner Magazine. The review by 4WDTO was excellent and the idea of added clearance was killer. The arm is of a bent design which adds needed ground clearance. I changed my mind and ordered from Wild West instead. (The same 80-series hardware was needed so I ordered that as well for about $40) Then the call came from Tim at WWF a few days later....."Hey, we're working on a second generation design, do you want to wait a week or so for those?". Tim explained that they are adding a on-arm "skid" to the front end of the arm where it attaches to the bushing tube. "This will add even more strength in the most vulnerable area of the arm" Tim said. I told him YES....I'll wait.
Info on his First Gen arms are in the mag:
Full details here. Watch for updates.
John Shotts (shottscruisers) : photos : Wild West Off-Road 2nd Generation High-Clearance Lower Control Arms- powered by SmugMug
While waiting for the arms I was observing one other POSSIBLE issue for use on the 100.
***We know the arms for the 100 and 80 are the same length. The mounts on both vehicles do differ some. While we're waiting for the arms, let's take a peek at the mounts to see if we anticipate any other issues. Here's a pic of the 80-series front mount. Looks like plenty of room for the larger bushing tube. And 4WDTO Mag already verified that. [:>)
***Here's the 100's mount. Looks like plenty of room as well for the larger tubing. WAIT....It looks like the top of the mount ends closer to the arm than in the 80. Considering these new arms will begin more parallel to the ground before articulation, will they hit the mount (semicircle above arm) when compressed? Let's verify......
***Here's a shot of the 80's semicircle area. It's about 1.5" from the stock arm top.
***Whoa! It's a tad under 1.25" on the 100. Less room to move before contact. WHOA #2.....The difference could be the angle of the arms on these trucks. The 100 sits at 3" and the 80 sits at 7". That means the 80's arm is at a greater angle and therefore it's farther from the frame's semicircle area. We shall see when we get the new arms. Meanwhile, we MIGHT need to trim the semicircle a tad so contact is not made on full compression.
From David from Toyota 4WD Toyota Owner Magazine:
OK, the arms are in. There are REALLY HEAVY DUTY. I am glad I waited. VERY GLAD. The pics don't do justice. These arms are HUGE....almost slider huge. I waited until the last minute to take pics so they aren't that great. Once they are on (later today) I'll take better ones.
I luv the newly added skid plates on the second gen models. Should help to protect the weld making them even stronger!
The rear of the bar touts a skid as well.
Bent arms offer added clearance compared to straight ones.
TEST: Pretend this is a ledge or rock you need to climb. Resting on the arm will stop progress unless you hit it and risk bending.
You need about 6-more inches before the tire climbs the "ledge". Will the new arms afford the needed clearance to climb the "ledge"? Check back AFTER the arms are on.
I CAN SEE WHY ZARTMAN GAVE THE REVIEW HE GAVE! Dear Lord.....why has nobody made arms like these until now?
The 80 and 100 series super weak spot wheeling-wise are these frickin' arms. They are long, hang down and catch everything. When they catch you stop, or you hop, or you bend, or you get strapped.
Aftermarket arms don't address this. Sure, they are stronger but you still hang. HOW IN THE HELL HAVE 80-WHEELERS LIVED WITHOUT ARMS LIKE THESE WWOR ALL THESE YEARS? NUTS!
Pic one....the cooler is your rock/ledge. You are stopped in your tracks.
Pic two....the cooler is your rock/ledge. Your tire simply climbs up. The difference in clearance is amazing!
This pic allows you to visually see the gained clearance over a straight arm. It also shows the new 2nd Gen skid on the bottom front of the bar which adds more strength (Zartman's didn't have these). WOW!
Lastly....Those arms are tucked out of the way and for good. Add in the super strong steel over stock....cool! Looking at the 100, the rear drive shaft looks like it's still higher above ground compared to the arms. That's good as well.
Last pic shows you the change. Before in the rough stuff you had to place your vehicle so these would clear:
L arm
R arm
Driveshaft
Now....position your vehicle to clear the rear shaft and that's it!
TIM LUND HAS A WINNER HERE! THIS IS A MUST FOR ANY SERIOUS 80 OR 100 SERIES FOUR-WHEELER. THE PICS DON'T LIE! WHERE OH WHERE HAVE THESE BEEN? The 80's have been out for 17-years!
By the way...the install was easy. Drilled out the frame holes to 80-size and slapped on 80 hardware....done.
One example of why the "bent arms" help:
The video shows how a straight arm would have been hit, bent, or hung on. Click the link:
John Shotts (shottscruisers) : photos : Wild West Off-Road 2nd Generation High-Clearance Lower Rear Control Arms
Stills from the video (though the video shows it better):
Approach. Look what the rear arm area is headed for:
Look where the ledge was going to hit. Yes, the lower arms. Good things I had the WWOR arms.
BUMP! After seeing discussion about arms in the Picture Section I went back and re-read this thread. David Zartman's (4WD Toyota Owner Magazine) posts from the Rubicon are of great importance to us 100-owners. I suggest starting at page 1. Lots of info.
Update from me over the past 2 years I've run these lower arms:
***They are PRICELESS! FJC's, 100's, 80's...dragging, bending, stopping progress from the lower rear arms is a huge problem in the rocks. A J-shaped arm addresses this. You rarely ever touch your arm to an obstacle as they are out of the way.
***No driveshaft issues. The DS is still tucked up and away and is easy to avoid when you're not worried about hanging up on the arms. Plus, like David said in his post...we're already worrying about clearing our rear diff and that usually results in clearing the driveshaft as well. It's AWESOME to only worry about the diff/driveshaft vs 3 things...diff, L arm and R arm.
***For those who still demand straight arms. I suggest you do not settle for 100-series thinner/lighter aftermarket arms. Instead, shop for extreme-duty 80-series arms. They exist in a tube as heavy as the Wild West's. I suggest you take those larger size and super beefier arms and fit them to the 100. It's easy...4 new 80-series bolts and 5-minutes worth of drilling. Sure beats lighter-duty stuff and with little effort.
J-arms are the way to go though. This wheel is really drooped. Where's the control arm? There's nothing there to catch if this was a spot with a huge rock ro ledge. Just imagine it! What an improvement! Go read Zartman's posts! He knows how to write and his posts make sense.
PERFECT TIMING! Having replaced every other bushing under the rear of my 100, the lower arms bushings were finally gone as well. You should hear it articulate! EEK! So, the plan was to buy a set of Slee HD Lower Control Arms for the 80-series and install them onto the 100. This would require buying 80-series bolts, washers, and nuts as the 100 takes a smaller bolt-set. Then, to fit, we'd need to drill out the holes on the four arm mounts to 80-series size so the hardware fits. (Easy) The day I was going to order Slee's I seen the review of Wild West Fab's new high-clearance arms in 4WD Toyota Owner Magazine. The review by 4WDTO was excellent and the idea of added clearance was killer. The arm is of a bent design which adds needed ground clearance. I changed my mind and ordered from Wild West instead. (The same 80-series hardware was needed so I ordered that as well for about $40) Then the call came from Tim at WWF a few days later....."Hey, we're working on a second generation design, do you want to wait a week or so for those?". Tim explained that they are adding a on-arm "skid" to the front end of the arm where it attaches to the bushing tube. "This will add even more strength in the most vulnerable area of the arm" Tim said. I told him YES....I'll wait.
Info on his First Gen arms are in the mag:
Full details here. Watch for updates.
John Shotts (shottscruisers) : photos : Wild West Off-Road 2nd Generation High-Clearance Lower Control Arms- powered by SmugMug
While waiting for the arms I was observing one other POSSIBLE issue for use on the 100.
***We know the arms for the 100 and 80 are the same length. The mounts on both vehicles do differ some. While we're waiting for the arms, let's take a peek at the mounts to see if we anticipate any other issues. Here's a pic of the 80-series front mount. Looks like plenty of room for the larger bushing tube. And 4WDTO Mag already verified that. [:>)
***Here's the 100's mount. Looks like plenty of room as well for the larger tubing. WAIT....It looks like the top of the mount ends closer to the arm than in the 80. Considering these new arms will begin more parallel to the ground before articulation, will they hit the mount (semicircle above arm) when compressed? Let's verify......
***Here's a shot of the 80's semicircle area. It's about 1.5" from the stock arm top.
***Whoa! It's a tad under 1.25" on the 100. Less room to move before contact. WHOA #2.....The difference could be the angle of the arms on these trucks. The 100 sits at 3" and the 80 sits at 7". That means the 80's arm is at a greater angle and therefore it's farther from the frame's semicircle area. We shall see when we get the new arms. Meanwhile, we MIGHT need to trim the semicircle a tad so contact is not made on full compression.
From David from Toyota 4WD Toyota Owner Magazine:
I'll chime in since I am the lucky first buyer of the Wild West Offroad Fab high-clearance arms
Lots of high-quality aftermarket, straight rear arms are available, and all have one thing in common--they are heavily beefed up. Now why would they all be made ultra heavy-duty unless lower control arms are vulnerable to impacts and damage, right? Exactly...because the designers know, as we owners do as well, that the OEM arms are vulnerable. They WILL take hits off-road and they are much too weak to handle it. John uses welded-on steel to reinforce his in anticipation of this. In short, aftermarket heavy duty arms are actually made to impact, grind on and bounce off rocks; while the Wild West arms are made to clear over them with no contact.
So we know OEM arms are a weak/low hanging point, and the aftermarket has responded with arms built to withstand those impacts--there is clearly a market for them. Now, any impact is going to be an impediment to forward progress. If we can avoid impacts, our momentum isn't affected, and our ability to get over the obstacle is greatly increased. With these arms, you don't hit as many rocks to begin with, so trails and obstacles are easier to compete. If you do hit them, the Wild West arms are plenty heavy duty enough to handle it.
One other thing to keep in mind is whenever a lower control arm makes contact with an obstacle before the tire does, the arm is unloading the tire to a certain degree, thereby lessening the contact pressure. In effect, lifting the tire off the ground and decreasing overall traction at that corner.
I've taken the Wild West high-clearance arms across the Rubicon and will do so again here in a few weeks for the Rubithon run and let me tell you, it's great having one less thing to catch my 80-series Cruiser on. The less hits, the higher clearance, the better!
Cheers,
OK, the arms are in. There are REALLY HEAVY DUTY. I am glad I waited. VERY GLAD. The pics don't do justice. These arms are HUGE....almost slider huge. I waited until the last minute to take pics so they aren't that great. Once they are on (later today) I'll take better ones.
I luv the newly added skid plates on the second gen models. Should help to protect the weld making them even stronger!
The rear of the bar touts a skid as well.
Bent arms offer added clearance compared to straight ones.
TEST: Pretend this is a ledge or rock you need to climb. Resting on the arm will stop progress unless you hit it and risk bending.
You need about 6-more inches before the tire climbs the "ledge". Will the new arms afford the needed clearance to climb the "ledge"? Check back AFTER the arms are on.
I CAN SEE WHY ZARTMAN GAVE THE REVIEW HE GAVE! Dear Lord.....why has nobody made arms like these until now?
The 80 and 100 series super weak spot wheeling-wise are these frickin' arms. They are long, hang down and catch everything. When they catch you stop, or you hop, or you bend, or you get strapped.
Aftermarket arms don't address this. Sure, they are stronger but you still hang. HOW IN THE HELL HAVE 80-WHEELERS LIVED WITHOUT ARMS LIKE THESE WWOR ALL THESE YEARS? NUTS!
Pic one....the cooler is your rock/ledge. You are stopped in your tracks.
Pic two....the cooler is your rock/ledge. Your tire simply climbs up. The difference in clearance is amazing!
This pic allows you to visually see the gained clearance over a straight arm. It also shows the new 2nd Gen skid on the bottom front of the bar which adds more strength (Zartman's didn't have these). WOW!
Lastly....Those arms are tucked out of the way and for good. Add in the super strong steel over stock....cool! Looking at the 100, the rear drive shaft looks like it's still higher above ground compared to the arms. That's good as well.
Last pic shows you the change. Before in the rough stuff you had to place your vehicle so these would clear:
L arm
R arm
Driveshaft
Now....position your vehicle to clear the rear shaft and that's it!
TIM LUND HAS A WINNER HERE! THIS IS A MUST FOR ANY SERIOUS 80 OR 100 SERIES FOUR-WHEELER. THE PICS DON'T LIE! WHERE OH WHERE HAVE THESE BEEN? The 80's have been out for 17-years!
By the way...the install was easy. Drilled out the frame holes to 80-size and slapped on 80 hardware....done.
One example of why the "bent arms" help:
The video shows how a straight arm would have been hit, bent, or hung on. Click the link:
John Shotts (shottscruisers) : photos : Wild West Off-Road 2nd Generation High-Clearance Lower Rear Control Arms
Stills from the video (though the video shows it better):
Approach. Look what the rear arm area is headed for:
Look where the ledge was going to hit. Yes, the lower arms. Good things I had the WWOR arms.
BUMP! After seeing discussion about arms in the Picture Section I went back and re-read this thread. David Zartman's (4WD Toyota Owner Magazine) posts from the Rubicon are of great importance to us 100-owners. I suggest starting at page 1. Lots of info.
Update from me over the past 2 years I've run these lower arms:
***They are PRICELESS! FJC's, 100's, 80's...dragging, bending, stopping progress from the lower rear arms is a huge problem in the rocks. A J-shaped arm addresses this. You rarely ever touch your arm to an obstacle as they are out of the way.
***No driveshaft issues. The DS is still tucked up and away and is easy to avoid when you're not worried about hanging up on the arms. Plus, like David said in his post...we're already worrying about clearing our rear diff and that usually results in clearing the driveshaft as well. It's AWESOME to only worry about the diff/driveshaft vs 3 things...diff, L arm and R arm.
***For those who still demand straight arms. I suggest you do not settle for 100-series thinner/lighter aftermarket arms. Instead, shop for extreme-duty 80-series arms. They exist in a tube as heavy as the Wild West's. I suggest you take those larger size and super beefier arms and fit them to the 100. It's easy...4 new 80-series bolts and 5-minutes worth of drilling. Sure beats lighter-duty stuff and with little effort.
J-arms are the way to go though. This wheel is really drooped. Where's the control arm?
There's nothing there to catch if this was a spot with a huge rock ro ledge. Just imagine it! What an improvement! Go read Zartman's posts! He knows how to write and his posts make sense. 
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Current generation arms are supplied with hardware that fits both the 80 and 100, so the above does not apply anymore.
- Thread starter
- #54
were there any clearance issues with the wwor arms and the front mount when you had upward articulation of the axle?
- Thread starter
- #56
Nope! Everything works awesome. Wouldn't trade these for anything!
John, Such a awesome thread. Bravo!!
Now the real question, Will the great Mr. Slee sell a OME kit (ARB1032) with swapped out rear N74L shocks with all the necessary hardware/bushings for the 100 Series????
OR
is this a moot point with the addition of all the Nitrocharger sport shocks over the last year or so??? I would think it would still be relevant.
More research here I come LOL...
Now the real question, Will the great Mr. Slee sell a OME kit (ARB1032) with swapped out rear N74L shocks with all the necessary hardware/bushings for the 100 Series????
OR
is this a moot point with the addition of all the Nitrocharger sport shocks over the last year or so??? I would think it would still be relevant.
More research here I come LOL...
I have been talking to Glenn with Radflo shocks about making a rear 2.5" extended length shock for the 100 series.
It's basically be an 80 series 3" lift shock (vs 2" lift) that has ~2" more travel, valved for the slightly heavier 80 series, and with 100 series mounts on either end.
- Thread starter
- #59
Ya, Slee's provided the full solution for a lot of folks. Same solution works with the Sport-type as well.
Latest lifts on the market for 100 series
Hey great write-up! I just got a "new" used 100 and came across this in my research. Also in my research I have found a lift by extremelandcruiser.com that will do 4, 6, 8" lifts in a method similar to say a Procomp Chevy IFS lift moving the whole front-end down essentially. Has anyone seen it or tried it or heard anything about it? I called the guy and it's about $5k for the 4" kit.
Another lift I found is by justdifferentials.com which adds to the typical torsion bar/coil spring kit by adding upper control arms and longer shocks to add down travel. It looks pretty sweet. They have spec'd some King shocks (or bilstein's) for this application. Have you or anyone heard about, seen, tried this setup?
Thanks!
Hey great write-up! I just got a "new" used 100 and came across this in my research. Also in my research I have found a lift by extremelandcruiser.com that will do 4, 6, 8" lifts in a method similar to say a Procomp Chevy IFS lift moving the whole front-end down essentially. Has anyone seen it or tried it or heard anything about it? I called the guy and it's about $5k for the 4" kit.
Another lift I found is by justdifferentials.com which adds to the typical torsion bar/coil spring kit by adding upper control arms and longer shocks to add down travel. It looks pretty sweet. They have spec'd some King shocks (or bilstein's) for this application. Have you or anyone heard about, seen, tried this setup?
Thanks!
