100 series / lx470 alternator replacement quick tips no pictures

[UZJ100LC]

have a spare connector on hand

does anyone have a toyota part number for this connector?

 

[daohaus]

Original alternator just got taken out.

 

[Malleus]

does anyone have a toyota part number for this connector?

If you mean the harness side connector housing, the number is cast into the rear of the housing. If you mean the alternator side connector housing, no.

 

[MUDnHUNDY]

Notes after doing this on a '99 LC:

Process:

• My process ended up being same as the OP, ponytl. The alternator came out the bottom after removing the radiator hose.
• There are two transmission cooler hard lines at the bottom just behind the radiator. I needed to loosen a positioning bracket so I could slightly push away those hard lines when pulling the alternator through.
• There's a wiring bracket on the alternator that I removed to make the alternator easier to pass through the small openings later.
• The power steering pump doesn't have to be completely removed and suspended, but it's easy enough to do it anyway and gives you extra room for dealing with the alternator wiring that is challenging. But technically there is enough room to free the alternator if you remove the two lower power steering pump bolts and back out the top bolt most of the way.
• I wasted a lot of time trying to pull the alternator out the top because I didn't want to drain radiator fluid...just do it, keep it clean, and re-use it with a paper towel straining on refill. From the top back, there's no way to remove the alternator unless the exhaust manifold comes off, and even then I'm not sure, as the power steering pump mounting area is an obstruction. From the top front, either the power steering pump needs to come out (see "chowcares alternator" YouTube video) or the fan and maybe shroud need to come out, which then requires a crow's foot wrench to properly retorque the fan. I didn't want to open the power steering fluid system or mess with fan torquing.
• Different years of the 100 seem to have slightly different mounting hardware for the power steering pump, PS pulley, and alternator.
• The three-prong electrical connector was not fun to remove. When standing at the right fender and reaching your left hand down to the back of the alternator, the push tab that needs to be squeezed is on the upper side of the connector facing you, below a rubber boot that says "PUSH". There is no push tab on the back side of the connector. I was able to free it by standing on a step and using my right hand to brace the front of the alternator while using my left thumb to lever against the back case of the alternator, using that thumb to simultaneously depress the tab and push the connector off. As you'll see when you get in there, it's very difficult to get a good squeeze on the connector because your left hand fingers can't get a good grip on the back side of the connector to pull. It can be done with the alternator still hanging on the upper stud but pulled out a bit or it can be done with the alternator off the stud and the right hand holding its entire weight (both have their challenges). Fortunately, even after 25 years and 200k, the connector was still robust and not brittle, as others experienced. I'm guessing leaking fluids and/or prior mechanics using pliers could break the connector.
• After refilling the coolant, the purge procedure is as simple as warming up the engine, turning the interior heat on high, having a helper hold 2000 RPM, then squeezing both large radiator hoses. After the engine cools, top off the reservoir to FULL.

Parts:

• The threads have spoken and an original rebuild or Toyota Reman will save a lot of headaches or worry about future failure.
• My dealer had ordering choices of a reman 80A for $215, a reman 100A for $138, and a new 80A for $541. I chose the reman 100A and it was an exact fit to the OEM 80A I had removed. Kept the failed OEM 80A to rebuild myself.
• The new alternator won't have the side wiring bracket. Don't leave the old one on your core return!
• Spin all your pulleys after removing the serpentine belt. It's a great time to check that they spin smoothly but do come to a stop and don't free spin, as when the bearing is wearing out. I needed an idler pulley.

Troubleshooting:

The battery light began flickering on a 1-hour road trip and stayed on for the final 15 minutes of the road trip. Voltage at the battery was the same with engine running and stopped. Serpentine belt tension was light, but still turned pulleys and ran all accessories.

• I ran these alternator tests from ChrisFix, which will tell you if the alternator itself is putting out charging voltage or not and if the wiring between the alternator and the battery is damaged. The fuses/box at the positive battery cable can fail on the LC. Note that it's difficult, but we can access the B+ post on our alternators without removing anything other than the plastic cover at the post. Careful not to get burned by the exhaust!
• I replaced the serpentine belt tensioner, hoping to avoid the alternator removal. Although the tensioner was out of spec and the belt was loosish, it was not the direct cause.
• I removed the OEM alternator and changed the brush kit for $17 myself. I did this troubleshooting and it passed all of the tests, though the diode tests it would sometimes pass and sometimes not. The FSM also has alternator checks I didn't see until after the fact. I gambled and reinstalled the OEM alternator with the brush kit, but ultimately I think the diode pack was bad.

Torques:

Alternator large upper mounting nut and lower mounting bolt: 39 N-m (29 ft-lbs)
Alternator B+ nut: 9.8 N-m (87 in-lbs)
Power Steering Pump bolts: 17 N-m (13 ft-lbs) ***mine were still loose after reinstalling and test driving, so I wrench-tightened them a little further.