With the exception of not knowing exactly which OME shocks are on my truck, I have Slee's Heavy Load 1.5" Level Stance Lift Kit.
100 Series General Tech and Classifieds (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter wngrog
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Timing belt sticker says 2006 at 112K. I have 198k. Nervous about water pump more than belt, which appears in good condition. Will let educated eyes check it out. After I determine if that's $700 I'm on to suspension.
in the event it needs it Graves & Stoddard or Integrity? I have heard yall mention both. (ill probably do baseline fluids, water pump, and belts all at once)
in the event it needs it Graves & Stoddard or Integrity? I have heard yall mention both. (ill probably do baseline fluids, water pump, and belts all at once)
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SHUSH said:
Integrity.
Based on various mud threads, it's clear that TB breakage is rare (if Ive ever even heard of a failure). My original one was just replaced on my 100 at 167k. Now, while I wouldn't recommend going that far, the 90k interval shows to be conservative. If I were you, I wouldn't look at changing the TB until at least 125k. And as for the WP, most of the records I recall were from a Toyota dealership. So, if the WP was changed, it's probably OEM and should be good for a WHILE! Just my opinions...
We must be reading the same stuff....gonna have someone eye ball the belts and if good focus on suspension and revisit belts at 230k
Papalud said:
If you get it for the wife I'll trade you front bumpers. She don't need no ARB. Cash and home brew can be discussed.
I think most of CLC has OME gear. I know several have the 2.5 medium (im leaning this way heavily) but does anyone run Ironman gear (the 2" kit is about $7-800 but has no diff drop)
From what im reading Slee's 2.5 in OME kit is the best bang for the buck, allbeit on the high end at $12-1300.
From what im reading Slee's 2.5 in OME kit is the best bang for the buck, allbeit on the high end at $12-1300.
I've read some pretty convincing threads that the diff drop is a waste of money.
Ill research MORE. The queen seems ok with the idea. All slees kits come with it. Wonder why?
It stands to reason if you watch your cvs for leaking and can stop it if they do then why have a kit to drop the diff 1 in?
Why don't you get the ironman and then we will have different gear in the Club. I know Brock (mud name) and has been very happy with his. I would give it serious consideration considering it is a lot cheaper than OME. The main reason I went OME is because I found used OME springs.
I don't have a diff drop but I only have a 1.5" lift. I also have leaking CV axles that now need to be replaced. They are original to the truck and had I caught the leaking grease soon enough, I might have been able to save them. Seems from my memory from reading threads on the matter that if you are running a 2.5" then you want a diff drop.
If I were going with a 2.5", I would go ahead and buy the diff drop. Bump It Offroad makes a diff drop that is cheaper than Slee. I am always interested in good quality products but also don't want to spend too much money when there other products are on the market that do just as well for less money. I would give the Bump it a shot if I were to purchase one now.
Because you are putting a lot of strain on the axles since the angles are out of spec. From what I remember reading, once the axles have been in the same angle for a while, that when you lift, it causes them to leak and you can't really avoid it. You can attempt to clamp them to prevent all the grease from being slung out. You can also get a reboot kit and doctor them up yourself. I believe you can rebuild the entire CV axles too.
Like Papalud said, lots of threads on the 100 forum discussing both sides of this topic. Just have to read up on them and make an educated guess from the discussions.
I use Integrity for all my work. When I bought my truck it had 138K and the original timing belt. I had Integrity change the TB/WP and baseline all the fluids. It was 960. I felt that was a good deal considering the Dealer wanted more than that for just the TB.
I would highly recommend Integrity. They only work on Toyota and Lexus. I have called them on the phone and asked for advice. I spent 15 minutes on the phone and they knew I wasn't giving them my business for the work. Genuinely good people.
I have to book 3 weeks in advance for an oil change. They are that busy so plan ahead!!!
smm3 said:
A few months ago when the dealership mistakenly told me my AHC computer was bad I got a price from ACC in Atlanta I put a 2.5" Ironman lift on after ripping the AHC out.
Price was around $1500 including the time to rip out the AHC. So without the AHC to worry about you ought to come in significantly cheaper than OME. And IronMan has tons of good reviews.
That being said, the OME stuff that I put on the 40 was very high quality...
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Graves and Stoddard did my TB/WP ($740) and have done work on several cars for my family. Very honest as well and good to talk to on the phone too. Don't think you'll go wrong either way.
That seems about inline with Integrity. I don't know anything about Graves and Stoddard but if you like them, then I think you are correct. Can't go wrong either way.
- Thread starter
- #1,318
Run that timing belt and wp. Don't change s*** that is not broken on a 8000 truck.
Suspension. Try the Ironman. It will be fine. Especially at 30% off old man emu.
It's not the strain on the CVs it is the angle on the boots changing. They will leak if you crank the TBs or lift it.
Nothing a hose clamp won't fix.
Suspension. Try the Ironman. It will be fine. Especially at 30% off old man emu.
It's not the strain on the CVs it is the angle on the boots changing. They will leak if you crank the TBs or lift it.
Nothing a hose clamp won't fix.
He has spoken. Thanks for all the input lots to think about.
Warning SHUSH doesn't shush in this post
do you like the IM lift? have you had any other lifts on a 100 to compare? do you have a diff drop kit?
ive read about 20 threads and gone in circles...found 3 guys running/ like IM but kits are scarce,
alot of cult following for OME kits. many vendors sell them and they have a long GOOD history.
Essentially either is good. Some say IM rides better on road, but only 1 guy on all the threads had run both.....so ALL the rest is conjecture as they haven't run both products.....end state..its' a crap shoot.
I want atleast 2 inch of lift and its a mall cruiser (mild wheeling at best with no heavy gear on either bumper)
I found an OME 2 inch kit for $800 no diff drop
Slee has the 2.5 OME with diff drop for $1075
I found IM 2 inch for $681 and Bump it off road has a diff drop (if desired) for $200
So it boils down to 3 things: cvs leaking, $, and piece of mind. I believe that IM wil require more work on cvs down the road while slee's kit address the cv issue out the gate. YES some clamps will negate the leaking but I believe the issue is still there...soo
Yall want me to be the IM tester but who is gonna help me fix my jacked up cvs?
probably gonna try to drive Ron or Spivey's (both OME 2.5 I believe?) and make a decision......this is stressful I need a
do you like the IM lift? have you had any other lifts on a 100 to compare? do you have a diff drop kit?
ive read about 20 threads and gone in circles...found 3 guys running/ like IM but kits are scarce,
alot of cult following for OME kits. many vendors sell them and they have a long GOOD history.
Essentially either is good. Some say IM rides better on road, but only 1 guy on all the threads had run both.....so ALL the rest is conjecture as they haven't run both products.....end state..its' a crap shoot.
I want atleast 2 inch of lift and its a mall cruiser (mild wheeling at best with no heavy gear on either bumper)
I found an OME 2 inch kit for $800 no diff drop
Slee has the 2.5 OME with diff drop for $1075
I found IM 2 inch for $681 and Bump it off road has a diff drop (if desired) for $200
So it boils down to 3 things: cvs leaking, $, and piece of mind. I believe that IM wil require more work on cvs down the road while slee's kit address the cv issue out the gate. YES some clamps will negate the leaking but I believe the issue is still there...soo
Yall want me to be the IM tester but who is gonna help me fix my jacked up cvs?
probably gonna try to drive Ron or Spivey's (both OME 2.5 I believe?) and make a decision......this is stressful I need a
