100 lift guide (2 Viewers)

[JM63]

There are already quite a few posts about lifting the Land Cruiser 100, but I haven’t really found one that works as a clear guide on how to do it right—without wasting money on stuff you don’t actually need.


So here’s what I’m trying to figure out:

1. Upper control arms (UCAs):

• What do they actually do? Do they just correct front-end geometry, or do they help get more droop too? At what lift height are they unnecessary, and when do they become a must?

2. Diff drop:

• Is it really needed, or does it just limit your front ground clearance? When is it actually necessary?

3. Panhard bar:

• Better to go with an adjustable one or just relocate the mounting points?

4. Sway bar links:

• Worth upgrading or just a minor/visual difference?

5. Torsion bars:

• Are aftermarket ones really too stiff? For a truck without a steel bumper, is it better to stick with stock non-AHC bars?

I'm currently looking into replacing the suspension and leaning towards Dobinsons or Superior Engineering IFP. I'd prefer monotube shocks for the comfort and damping quality—twin tubes seem to suck at handling sharp, quick hits (like potholes, manholes, or railway tracks), making it feel super harsh.

Also wondering: is there a big difference between the standard IMS/MRR setups and the Long Travel kits? Do you actually get more usable wheel travel, or does the truck just sit higher with no extra flex?
I found only one video of a Dobinsons full "long-travel" setup on a J100, and the front shocks looked almost fully extended—like there was no downtravel at all.


TL;DR – I’m looking for a solid setup for a truck that’s mostly road-driven, but I want suspension that can handle off-road trails at a decent pace too. I know a J100 isn’t a Baja truck but still want something that’s fun, comfortable and capable.

 

[riffman12]

UCAs are mainly for getting the front geometry and alignment back into factory spec once you lift the front. I'm not sure what the amount of lift is where it's "required" but I've used my OEM ones on 2 cars with cranked torsion bars to match lifted rear springs. My only issue was a little more positive camber than I would like.

Diff drop is kind of a "pick your poison" between the life of your CV axles, and ground clearance. There's a long-standing debate on if/when they are needed.

The biggest issue with lifting an IFS 100 series is that a lift (in the front) can often hurt off road performance. As you lift the front, you're moving the front suspension further down in it's travel - thus reducing downward droop. This means more wheel lift on obstacles as you gain more ground clearance.

If it's a mainly road-driven Cruiser with occasional off road use, I think you'll find that less lift is more on these rigs - unless you're really going down a deep rabit hole (long travel etc.)

 

[anthonydiaz85]

2. Diff drop:

• Is it really needed, or does it just limit your front ground clearance? When is it actually necessary

I have an Ironman foam cell pro kit coming to me. I emailed the engineer over there to inquire about the need for a diff drop. He explained that most of their kits do not need a diff drop with the exception of the LC100/LX470. I ordered mine with the diff drop.

 

[GTV]

1- Aftermarket UCA's can correct alignment if you're unable to get there with your OEM UCA's. If your lift isn't that high and you can get correct alignment then you don't need aftermarket UCA's.

2- The more you lift the more you increase CV angle and wear. A diff drop keeps your CV's alive longer.

3- An aftermarket adjustable panhard rod will recenter your axle (side to side) after a lift.
Relocating the mounts will help to center the axle (but without the adjustability). The panhard rod is meant to be dead level at 50% suspension travel. Only if you've increased down travel you should look into relocating the mounts, a lift alone does not necessarily mean that you've increased travel.

4- If you've lifted so much that your sway bar to link bushings are visually in a bind then extended links are a good idea.

5- "Too stiff" is subjective. IMO if you don't have a lot of weight up front and/or aren't lifted too high aftermarket HD bars are unnecessary.

You get to the point of diminishing returns very quickly when you start lifting the front of a 100 series.