Builds 100 Guy Builds a 60 Series (1 Viewer)

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Started on the lights...

Here is how they show up with no instructions, no real packaging and no fluff. However they are packaged well and come with both the H4 pigtail we need plus an adapter for the Heeps.
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It has a nice heat sink back. If you look at the outter edge here on the rear you can see some raised castings that will interfere and not let the lamp sit flush into the headlight buckets. The 4 tabs are alignment tabs for a Jeep. I will break out the dremel and knock them off if longer screws don't get me where I want to be when I strap them in.
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One of the only downsides is the lights come with what Auxbeam calls Atmospheric glow... however they chose blue which I am pretty sure would not be smiled upon by my local LEO's. They do come with a daytime running light halo, which I do like and plan on using. So with that little issue it was time to crack them open and start modding the lights.

Here is the halo without the diffuser ring installed and the blue LEDs. They are all REALLY bright so my auto camera adjusted, the pic looks dark but the shop is lit up like an operating room so... there you go.
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After contemplating unsoldering some connections to pull the blue LED's from the system. That and or cutting the lead for the Halo and punching it directly into the power lead for the halo/atmospheric LED's I decided to go uber cheap and cover the blue LED's with some high quality electrical tape. Time will tell if it will heat up to much and move around but my gut tells me I am going to be fine. I left the big (yellow) LED's wide open, using one taped edge to cover the small Blue LED's.
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My harness should show today. I'll pop them in and wire them as soon as I get some breathing room to play in the garage.
 
Great to read your write ups
I just picked up a 60 and a set of 7” LED lights but ran into the same problem
Thanks for the link to the wire harness
 
Do you guys think I could possibly pull this bumper back to a straight(er) line if I put my winch on it from my other cruiser and tug it forward? Maybe find a buddy with a front end loader? I would just like to pull it back as straight as I can get it... I know it won't be perfect but the bumper is in good shape otherwise.

If you think I can do it, how would you rig it? I am thinking a tree saver around the outer edge with the bumper cap off and pull the winch line in and see what happens?

There could be better methods I am sure... but, I am a redneck at heart.


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I have wailed on this bumper mount with a dead blow hammer and I am getting zero movement.
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Another view so you can see what I am dealing with.
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I pulled mine back into place with a tree and a chain fall not as bent as yours i don't see why it wouldn't hurt to try its already bent
 
i flattened annie's bumper out in the vise and you almost can't tell
 
Get 'er DONE!

Strapped up with a tree saver and some thick cardboard so the bumper couldn't cut the strap under tension.

Easy rigging...
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Got it all snugged up, checked the rigging again and flipped the switch!
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While under tension I used the dead blow hammer to pound the mounting bolts and the bracket underneath as close to flat as possible. It was surprisingly simple, just a few clicks of the winch under tension and it pulled pretty straight. It is still twisted a bit, but I think I have an idea for that. Gotta' cut down a 2x6 to try my idea.
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Not bad for 10 minutes of work.
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We had a nice day and I had a few hours to tinker... always nice when those two things happen at the same time.

I received my new tail light lenses the other day. They came from Taiwan but they look identical to the TOYOTA OEM ones on the rig, same markings and everything. Quality seems really good, no flashing on the plastic, really clear and heavy for their size. I was stoked for the money I paid, took about 2-3 weeks to arrive.

As arrived... complete with Taiwan newspaper wrapping.
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This one needed it bad. Again, safety first so this was a simple thing that NEEDED to get done. My gaskets were in good shape, still soft and flexible I did need to bend some of the plastic dividers back into shape and realign the mounting tabs for the screws to get it all to line up and seal nicely again.
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Passenger side needed it too.
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And.... 8 screws later I was done. All lights work, cleaned up the back end pretty nicely and again, it NEEDED done. I checked all the wiring and cleaned the connectors while I was in there with some electric parts spray, then globbed a little dielectric grease in the terminals and she's good for another 20 years. (while posting this I noticed the gasket is misaligned at the side of the lens, I'll pop it out and tuck it into the gasket when I get a free moment again. )
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Next up I had to start tackling the wiring on the fender well. It was driving me nuts. There was so much going on there and I couldn't really tell why they did it the way they did but who knows why ANY PO does what they do... but it was his truck so good on him for having fun with it.

I started by chasing all the wires that were attached to this solenoid... heavy gauge leads had been run to the front and back of the truck with Anderson plugs for a winch/cradle setup. While that seems nice, I will either hard mount the winch to a new bumper or sell it to fund other things I want to do with this truck, but it'll likely stay with the rig in some form.

I pulled about 10 pounds of heavy gauge wire, nice stuff... nice to have around. I will likely recycle it into the 60 and use the cable for a "Big 3" upgrade with new grounds and power cables for the engine, alternator and starter. Sorry no pic not sure what happened to it.

Here is what I started with...
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And after chasing some wires and making sure I knew what I was snipping and removing I ended up with this. There is a bit more to clean up and a little bit of repair that I would like to do to the factory harness but I am going to sleep better tonight with some of the mess removed and a few unused things removed.
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And for the guru's anyone know what this is for?
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Here's a close up.
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Looks great. Those little things make all the difference.

You could use a little plastic polish to clean up those side markers to make the match!

That looks like an RFI suppressor. But I could be wrong
 
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Looks great. Those little things make all the difference.

You could use a little plastic polish to clean up those side markers to make the match!

That looks like an RFI suppressor. But I could be wrong

Like something to cut alternator noise? It looks like it had factory connectors on it.
 
Also, I had a friend @thetoyotaman recommend Bleach White Tire Cleaner... never used it in all my years playing with cars. It is good stuff, like use gloves and use it in the open air as it is pretty strong stuff. Sure did a good number on the ol' BFG KO2's

Before...
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And after a quick squirt and scrub down with a nylon brush... not bad.
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So I took on the old crusty factory mud flaps... same result.
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Cleaned up nice... even spotted a little of the remaining white lettering on the flaps.
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On another note... I busted my Snap-On ratcheting screwdriver trying to adjust one side of my drag link... trying to solve my death wobble issues, drivers side went smooth and easy. Took it in a full turn after following the 'Mud procedure of tighten, then back them off 1/2 - a full turn... the passenger side one busted my tools!

Gotta' order a Drag Link Socket and get after it.
 
Purists, you might want to fast forward to the next page now.


















On a side note. I am not going to mess with much in the way of body work and paint without a warm up... and in Montana, I expect that to happen sometime next spring! :D So, to close up the holes on the roof, I used an amazing product called duct tape :hillbilly: I even splurged for a roll of 3M's finest... and I got it color matched!


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Thanks Darren! I assume for the factory radio? I am sure it's already been bi-passed but I gotta' keep moving through what's been messed with and what needs correcting.
 

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