Builds 100 Guy Builds a 60 Series (1 Viewer)

[REZARF]

Keeping with the lighting theme, I swapped out the old incandescent bulbs for LED's. I used @pfran LED panel for the middle row dome light since I had a spare laying around and an Amazon special LED bulb for the rear dome light. My rear cargo light wasn't working in the 60 when I got it. The switch was pretty boogered up and my attempts to save it failed. My new roof section gave me spare dome lights front and rear so that was cool. I was able to get the switch working on the spare rear cargo light, but it still isn't coming on with the doors open. I suspect the switch as mine wasn't working till I tightened everything back up and hit it with some electrical connector cleaner and worked the switch back and forth.

Obviously you'd need to turn the bulb 180* to get it to shine out of the lens instead of just getting poser shots... don't ask me how I know.

Man, this thing really cranks. The light output is amazing. I am not looking for mood lighting in the back of the 60, I just want to find my gear at night and this fits the bill.

So my manual switch works great now but I gotta figure out why I am not getting the light to come on with the hatch/doors. Any thoughts? My center dome light works great and works as intended either manual or with the doors.

 

[74fj40]

The color difference is amazing just from polishing! Great updates. Keep it up

 

[REZARF]

I have been spending quite a bit of time in the FAQ section (see what I did there newbs? ) and I have got a lot of great ideas for the 60, from tips and tricks to quick effective mods. One that I came across was the 4Runner wiper Mod. Essentially you swap out the odd-ball screw on wipers that came on the 60 with a nice fresh set of 4Runner wiper arms.

I picked up a set of wiper arms off eBay for about $20 bucks and a couple of new wiper blades from Costco for another $6 each and for abouy $30 bucks I have DRAMATICALLY improved my wind shield wipers. This is so easy everyone should be doing it.

"New" parts ready to go...

Old wipers with their screw on mounts...

This one is a literal 10 minute mod.

Maybe the best $30 mod one can do on a FJ60. And mine came with the mounting nut covers to boot.

 

[REZARF]

Last thing we knocked out tonight was adjusting the hood. The leading edge sat back about 3/16" or so and some paint was rubbing off at the rear edge of the hood along the cowl. So we loosened up the hinges and springs, tapped things to loosen them with a rubber mallet and slid the hood forward the distance needed to get the hood lined up. That one had been bugging me!

Best "before" shot I have but not the correct angle...

Now the body lines match up.

And I picked up a good even reveal line for the rear of the hood. No more scraping on the cowl.

 

[REZARF]

I am debating if I should pop in LED's all around for the marker lights, parking lights, turn signals, rear brake lights etc. I need to get in and diagnose/replace my rear marker light bulbs and I am getting the itch to just go all in and swap all the bulbs out at once. I wonder if I will still get my turn signals to blink at the right speed... I thought I read something about that somewhere?

Thoughts?

 

[civil offroad]

I am debating if I should pop in LED's all around for the marker lights, parking lights, turn signals, rear brake lights etc. I need to get in and diagnose/replace my rear marker light bulbs and I am getting the itch to just go all in and swap all the bulbs out at once. I wonder if I will still get my turn signals to blink at the right speed... I thought I read something about that somewhere?

Thoughts?

@REZARF Been a long time lurker of your 100 build. I say get everything on the LED's

So to get you on the right speed of the LED Blinker, you'll need a resistor inline with the turn signal circuit.

Heres a sample of what I am talking about.

https://www.amazon.com/Resistors-Signal-License-Warning-Cancellor-x/dp/B004EDF8HY

Good Luck

 

[REZARF]

@REZARF Been a long time lurker of your 100 build. I say get everything on the LED's

So to get you on the right speed of the LED Blinker, you'll need a resistor inline with the turn signal circuit.

Heres a sample of what I am talking about.

https://www.amazon.com/Resistors-Signal-License-Warning-Cancellor-x/dp/B004EDF8HY

Good Luck

Thanks man, I appreciate the link

 

[White Stripe]

I have all led lights for exterior lights except for turn signals, I figure it's not much benefit to replace the turn signals from incandescent since they don't operate for long periods and should last 10 or more years with just new replacement bulbs. Those headlights look bright, do they seem to blind other drivers much? That's a nice roof u scored.

 

[CuCruiser]

Missed this the first time around I guess.
Anyway, I put in a LED compatible flasher Novita EP32 I think it was. It's a little faster than normal, wish it were slower but it's not obnoxious.
I think (hope) the sharp flash of LEDs catches peoples attention better. Plus it looks cool

I took a video of the brake lights, where left was LED and right was incandescent. I was surprised how much faster the LED registers. Worthwhile IMHO.

 

[REZARF]

Those headlights look bright, do they seem to blind other drivers much? That's a nice roof u scored.

Thanks the roof was an amazing score...

I haven't had anyone flash me thinking my brights were on yet. However, I feel like all the signs and reflective stuff along the road REALLY brightens up when I them on. I am kinda wondering if people are just being tolerant or if they're too bright but I'll report back if I get some upset folks. There is no perceived cut off with the beam patter that I can see.

 

[tclark]

I was surprised how much faster the LED registers. Worthwhile IMtHO.

Yeah it's quite a difference, definitely worth it imo. I haven't done the 60 yet but have a few other vehicles. Gives those behind you just a bit faster warning which is always a good thing.

 

[REZARF]

Finally got around to turning the passenger side drag link... got a drag link socket and wow, you can’t loose with one of those.

The passenger side took 3 full turns to bottom out! Backed it off 1/2 turn and reinstalled the cotter pin...









...maybe that will eliminate my death wobble. My kids freaked when we had a slight wobble the other day and we renamed it “fun wobble” now they think it’s a joy ride!

I’ll post up the results when I can spin it around the block.

 

[REZARF]

Errrrr, death wobble remains. Gonna’ pull my springs and shackle bushings next and see how they’re doing. That’ll allow me to check the steering stabilizer, tie rod ends and I’ll check the knuckles and wheel bearings.

Man, this is frustrating.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Check your relay rod end at the pitman arm. Large slotted end that can be tightened. Common for this to be loose due to lack of maintenance, and cause loose steering.

 

[REZARF]

Thanks @GLTHFJ60 I have adjusted both drag link ends... I was hoping that was it. It wasn't.

 

[74fj40]

Maybe I missed it, but have you had your tires balanced?

 

[REZARF]

Yeah they were freshly mounted and balanced right after I bought the truck. No tire issue seemed to arise. I am going to put it up in the air this week and make sure everything is properly torqued, inspect my bushings and dampener, and adjust the preload on my front wheel bearings, if I don't see anything obvious I'll likely swap out the TRE's and go from there.

 

[74fj40]

Hey Drew, any updates?

 

[SteveH]

I'm enjoying reading your build thread. Those rust free parts you got were/are sexy.

I would skip putting LEDs in all the lights. When I got my '95 FZJ back from the guy I sold it to, he had had replaced all the marker lights with LEDs and a number of them had failed. To add insult to injury, the one time I installed 'super high output Sylvania backup lights' in my FJ62, they were about 10% brighter than the incandescent bulbs. Total waste of money there. I would install LED arrays in the dome lights, since those seem to be reliable and a lot brighter.

 

[REZARF]

Hey Drew, any updates?

Nah, I haven't touched it in a month. I still chasing the death wobble and need to start throwing a little money at parts to start eliminating some possible culprits. Before I do that, I am going to pull the front springs, check the bushings, address the broken helper leaf, go into the knuckles and trunion bearning and make sure its all in spec. If it is, then I am going to buy some new TRE's and drag links and see where we get.

I do plan on returning the interior to stock in the next week or so.

I'm enjoying reading your build thread. Those rust free parts you got were/are sexy.

I would skip putting LEDs in all the lights. When I got my '95 FZJ back from the guy I sold it to, he had had replaced all the marker lights with LEDs and a number of them had failed. To add insult to injury, the one time I installed 'super high output Sylvania backup lights' in my FJ62, they were about 10% brighter than the incandescent bulbs. Total waste of money there. I would install LED arrays in the dome lights, since those seem to be reliable and a lot brighter.

Yeah, I am going to stay with the incan bulbs unless they burn out then swap them over to LED as needed.