100 Chapter of DIYMobileAudio (1 Viewer)

[dubdub20003]

Okay, it seems a number of us also spend time on DIYmobileaudio talking about car audio issues in the 100, so figured it would be beneficial to find a home for that discussion here on Mud. @Berkut10r, @suprarx7nut, @jerryb, @rbrave, @willyroo, @KillerBox @RoughOne, @OrlandoJon you're all tagged and invited!

There is this ridiculous build that has me wanting to rebuild my whole system. So clean. I have plans to pull carpet anyway, so once you're into that, it seems crazy not to take the opportunity to also run more cable! Almost cost you more not to do it, I think!

Who's got something interesting planned... or who has the perfect system up and running?

 

[rbrave]

I had been keeping track of most of my progress here: Modernizing a Non-Nav Stereo - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/modernizing-a-non-nav-stereo.1330331/

I’m currently updating my install to swap my stock amp for a Mosconi 6|10 DSP amp, and will be running Stereo Integrity TM65 mkiv in the fronts along with wide bands in the sail panels. Currently exploring options on the wide bands that aren’t visually offensive, and have BMR 2” coming in the mail. Also adding a sub, just built the box last weekend and hope to finish it next.

 

[Berkut10r]

Oh nice! Last night I finally got a working 3D model of the rear door panel and something that resembles a viable tweeter pod that goes in the stock location. Pod is based on OEM unit that I fiberglassed a 1" tweeter pod from Illusion Audio into it 6 months ago, I scanned the pod recently and will be tweaking the model for sometime. Later on a docket, a midrange bracket that would require minimal effort to open up a 3rd channel in the rear doors or replace the front door "slit" of an opening. Something along the lines of a Morel MM2 in a classy bracket that is not an eyesore, mounting requirement will be a tiny hole to feed the wiring through (rear doors) and 4 holes. Fasteners would be a hex bolt with a nut. This is an alternative to fiberglassing 3" rings into the door.

 

[Patassa]

Nav delete, so I could run a modern Pioner head unit to get wireless car play, android auto.

Door drivers are scan speak 6.5s, these drivers are spendy af but they have surpassed my expectations and there is no where to upgrade from here in this size. I made some custom mounting baffles/spacers in the doors out of acrylic. Ran new power wires back to the replacement amp. Most of the work and effort should go into property treating the doors with mass load vinyl, a foam isolation layer, and sound deadening material.

Running 2 way with the 2" BLAM widebands, mounted in pods up near the sail panels. Pods were made out of pvc caps and some swivel mounts I found on Amazon. I ordered some permanent ones that are made out of aluminum to go on the sail panel itself, just waiting on the install when I do some other work. No way to hide them, but I don't care how they look, the sound is incredible. I have them crossed pretty low to avoid separation issues and beaming from the woofers, Around 400hz from what I remember, they handle it fine. My ears are sensitive to hiss/sizzle/the very top end of the range so I don't miss dome tweeters at all.

I kept the stock rear door speakers that I can selectively play or not with my twk-88.
For sub, I got tired of messing around with the stock location after a couple of trials and errors and built a real box for a JBL GTI-12" that I can take out for trips, but otherwise lives in cargo area strapped to my fridge slide. It's a fantastic driver, one of the best SQ woofers ever made and can get louder than I have any business listening to at my age.

All time alignment, crossovers, EQing, etc is done through the Twk-88, worth every penny, not even worth doing a sound system without a capable DSP in my opinion.

And this is all powered with a 5 channel amp for front stage and sub and a small 2 channel for the rear door speakers. The amps and twk-88 are all under the passenger seat. You can create different "profiles" in the twk and with the click of a knob, I go from front stage and sub only, to front and rear both playing and fading ability for the rear passenger/passengers when needed.

This was the best I could do without getting radical and cutting holes in the dash. It's the best sounding system I've ever had, mostly down to, good door treatments, quality drivers, and the DSP tuning.

 

[MongooseGA]

This is all well above my pay grade but I'm looking forward to following along with the stereo builds.

 

[Patassa]

Sorry double post

 

[rbrave]

Oh nice! Last night I finally got a working 3D model of the rear door panel and something that resembles a viable tweeter pod that goes in the stock location. Pod is based on OEM unit that I fiberglassed a 1" tweeter pod from Illusion Audio into it 6 months ago, I scanned the pod recently and will be tweaking the model for sometime. Later on a docket, a midrange bracket that would require minimal effort to open up a 3rd channel in the rear doors or replace the front door "slit" of an opening. Something along the lines of a Morel MM2 in a classy bracket that is not an eyesore, mounting requirement will be a tiny hole to feed the wiring through (rear doors) and 4 holes. Fasteners would be a hex bolt with a nut. This is an alternative to fiberglassing 3" rings into the door.

I will happily evaluate sail mounting options! Especially of the unobtrusive variety. Interested to know if you have played with the BMR 2” - they are super cheap but low sensitivity, will need to see if they will have enough output for my tastes before installing.

 

[Berkut10r]

How To Sound Deaden Your Car Doors - The Right Way! - https://resonixsoundsolutions.com/how-to-sound-deadening-car-doors/ < knowledge bank about deadening.

 

[Berkut10r]

I will happily evaluate sail mounting options! Especially of the unobtrusive variety. Interested to know if you have played with the BMR 2” - they are super cheap but low sensitivity, will need to see if they will have enough output for my tastes before installing.

Hey, I will update my thread and here when I get something that I am willing to have other people use. As far as BMR goes, no I haven't used them but if they suck, you are only out of 19 dollars . In that size range, my go-to is the Dayton RS75. The whole Dayton RS lineup is go-to, tried and true. And as far as sensitivity goes, most of the drivers are below 90db threshold in that size range. Here is one with uber high DBs that is reasonable priced and is a proven performer for decades.

Infinity 203S Kappa Series 2" Midrange Speaekrs

Infinity 203S Kappa Series 2" Midrange Speaekrs

www.woofersetc.com

 

[suprarx7nut]

Okay, it seems a number of us also spend time on DIYmobileaudio talking about car audio issues in the 100, so figured it would be beneficial to find a home for that discussion here on Mud. @Berkut10r, @suprarx7nut, @jerryb, @rbrave, @willyroo, @KillerBox @RoughOne, @OrlandoJon you're all tagged and invited!

There is this ridiculous build that has me wanting to rebuild my whole system. So clean. I have plans to pull carpet anyway, so once you're into that, it seems crazy not to take the opportunity to also run more cable! Almost cost you more not to do it, I think!

Who's got something interesting planned... or who has the perfect system up and running?

I didn't even need to click the link to know which ridiculous build you were talking about, lol.

I miss my previous 100 with the upgraded system. Somebody recently came into the ADGU shop with a nice DSP system with a Teyes head unit, Focal components and stealth sub upgrade. I didn't get to demo it properly, but just randomly cranking up whatever was on the radio while pulling it in and out of the shop, it sounded great.

 

[Njck22]

This is my build from a few years ago. I've since built a new sub cabinet for 2 x 12" BA subwoofers, Swaped the alpine 500 for a Kicker 800 watt sub amp, and rockford Punch 600.4 for the mid ranges. Also laser cut a new fuse holder, no more rotting plywood. Still sounds good and turning up the subs is a nice party trick. Would like to get a nicer amp for the midranges eventually.

 

[dubdub20003]

Nice sounding builds. I have double din Alpine to that tiny JBL 8channel dsp amp, all JBL speaker… they are 2ohm, so it squeezes all there is out of that small amp. The sub is a DVC 2ohm sub, so even though the amp will not let you bridge any channels, the sub still sees 2 channels of watts. The sub is a Rockford Fosgate 10”, in a down firing ported box in back. For a super simple system, it sounds good enough. Essentially, like a modern mid-range OEM system. Oh and a bunch of damping and sound blocking throughout… save for the roof.

One cool thing, I wired a switch in the dash to route the sub signals to the OEM sub, that I swapped out for a tiny 6” Memphis DVC, so when I need to move something, I still have a little bass. Totally better plan in my mind than reality, but still worth it. 4 wires in and 8 out! Took forever to find the right switch!

As I said in open, thinking of a rework of most everything. Thinking of new carpet… and that means the lower trim has to come out all around, and it also has to come out foR the roof, so might as well treat that as well… and if everything is out, probably the best time to drop new wire for new system… which brought me to that system in the first pic. My biggest problem now? Most class D amplifiers are not worth showing!

Was waiting for someone to show a center console built into a sub! Gotta be possible!

 

[Patassa]

I will happily evaluate sail mounting options! Especially of the unobtrusive variety. Interested to know if you have played with the BMR 2” - they are super cheap but low sensitivity, will need to see if they will have enough output for my tastes before installing.

Seeing as how those are $8 drivers, admittedly, I've never used nor heard them, but in my 25+ years of dicking around with car audio, I have tried lots of seemingly "cheap, easy" solutions. There aren't any. It doesn't have to be expensive, but it does have to be a quality install, quality drivers, and quality processing. Otherwise, you're signing up for upgrade-itis, perpetually.

 

[rbrave]

Upgradeitis, in this case, is going from a 2-way to 3-way setup. Not opposed to that, but worth considering options before I cut into door panels or start custom prints/glass for my LC pillars or sails. I am running all new wire so it will be ready if I go a different direction.

3” speakers look giant sticking out of the skinny a-pillar. What model Blam are you running in yours? They look like 2-2.5”?

 

[Patassa]

Upgradeitis, in this case, is going from a 2-way to 3-way setup. Not opposed to that, but worth considering options before I cut into door panels or start custom prints/glass for my LC pillars or sails. I am running all new wire so it will be ready if I go a different direction.

3” speakers look giant sticking out of the skinny a-pillar. What model Blam are you running in yours? They look like 2-2.5”?

Yep, 2"

https://www.blam-audio.com/en/produit/speaker-lfr50/

 

[Patassa]

How To Sound Deaden Your Car Doors - The Right Way! - https://resonixsoundsolutions.com/how-to-sound-deadening-car-doors/ < knowledge bank about deadening.

Yeah pretty good stuff in there. It's a huge pain to do this, but the only way to get decent mid-bass from the door drivers.

 

[Patassa]

Upgradeitis, in this case, is going from a 2-way to 3-way setup. Not opposed to that, but worth considering options before I cut into door panels or start custom prints/glass for my LC pillars or sails. I am running all new wire so it will be ready if I go a different direction.

3” speakers look giant sticking out of the skinny a-pillar. What model Blam are you running in yours? They look like 2-2.5”?

If you can live with the very non stock look, the, 2-3" widebands eliminate the need to go 3 way in my non-expert opinion. But I get it, some people can't stand looking at stuff like this. I don't LOVE it, but I don't hate it and love the sound.

 

[rbrave]

To give you a size difference with the BMRs - here the are next to the CDT Unity 2”, which uses the same basket as your Blam. They look like they will fit behind the stock sail panel with a little modding. Just got these in after being on the road this week, will get them tested this weekend.

 

[dubdub20003]

Say, has anyone’s system pushed them to need a HO alternator? I stick with
OE for almost all parts, but guess this may strain it. Believe there is a sequoia alternator that drops in, and puts out more, but have not researched.

Looking at 2 AB and one class D amps… may add up.

 

[Patassa]

Say, has anyone’s system pushed them to need a HO alternator? I stick with
OE for almost all parts, but guess this may strain it. Believe there is a sequoia alternator that drops in, and puts out mote, but have not researched.

Looking at 2 AB and one class D amps… may add up.

I went all class D to avoid the need to upgrade.