1" wheel spacers issue LX 570 (1 Viewer)

[TeCKis300]

Not Talking section width I’m talking treadwidth your tires are 10.4 inches. When I bought them you convinced me the widest treadwidth was the best thing for stability. If your tires tread width is wider the tires are going to stick out further.

Don't disagree with you. Just trying to stay on topic to sort out the issue with the spacer. For any particular tire, the whole tire needs to fit. Including making room for section width. While spacers are not my first choice, they are a useful tool to certain fitments.

 

[TeCKis300]

For comparison here is the back of a 2008 wheel. As you can see the cut out gets closer to the hub ring leaving more room for the nut to protrude. So you might be just fine if you don't have 2013 wheels.

View attachment 1766793

I think you did it! Solved the puzzle. So the root of the issue is the 2013 (and like style) wheels. Nothing to do with the spacer/studs/vehicle. The relief on the 2013 wheel is not adequate for a 1" spacer. Nor a .75" spacer.

This is critical to be aware of for people with similar wheels. Would hate to see someone lose a wheel and get into an accident. Another buyer beware issue when using spacers!

Resolution wouldn't too bad. Could easily grind the wheel just a tad in that tiny section where the stud just interferes. Or could even grind the studs/wheel. I would choose the non-critical and softer aluminum wheel, rather than the steel stud/nut parts. Just mount the wheel up, unmount it, and grind a tad of the witness imprints on the wheel.

I don't have a pic of the inside of my wheel, but here's what my spacer looks like. I may take a pic of my spare to see if the reliefs are like you posted.

 

[TeCKis300]

For comparison here is the back of a 2008 wheel. As you can see the cut out gets closer to the hub ring leaving more room for the nut to protrude. So you might be just fine if you don't have 2013 wheels.

View attachment 1766793

Your google-fu skills check out. Matches what I'm seeing on my spare.

 

[RyanR]

I haven't taken the wheels off to take pictures yet since it's raining here. But here are some of the spacers and nuts. As you can see I just laid them on the spacer and they protrude just a bit. My 2013 wheels definitely don't have cut outs on the backside.

View attachment 1766744

It is to be expected that your studs protrude a little bit. But that is crazy that the bolts supplied with the spacers protrude. That is definitely not good, the spacer + included hardware should create a perfectly flat surface for the wheel to mate to. On my BORA spacers the nuts definitely do not protrude at all.

 

[HGB]

I think you did it! Solved the puzzle. So the root of the issue is the 2013 (and like style) wheels. Nothing to do with the spacer/studs/vehicle. The relief on the 2013 wheel is not adequate for a 1" spacer. Nor a .75" spacer.

This is critical to be aware of for people with similar wheels. Would hate to see someone lose a wheel and get into an accident. Another buyer beware issue when using spacers!

Resolution wouldn't too bad. Could easily grind the wheel just a tad in that tiny section where the stud just interferes. Or could even grind the studs/wheel. I would choose the non-critical and softer aluminum wheel, rather than the steel stud/nut parts. Just mount the wheel up, unmount it, and grind a tad of the witness imprints on the wheel.

I don't have a pic of the inside of my wheel, but here's what my spacer looks like. I may take a pic of my spare to see if the reliefs are like you posted.

Would a 1.25” spacer work for a 2013 wheel?

 

[CharlieS]

1.25" spidertrax work on a 2013 land cruiser.

 

[Fishinsea]

Spacers are pretty much a no-no. Maybe you can find rims with suitable back spacing to give a wider stance.

Spacers are perfectly fine folks !!!!!!!! you don't want a huge space I will give you that but anything inder 1.50 is no problem, Hubcentric spacers are a must i beleive though and obviously you don't want the nuts holding the wheel spacers on protruding, thats just a s***ty design cheap spacer

 

[grinchy]

1" spacer here. Total generics. No issue with bolts, nuts, or vibration. Running 18" Tundra alloy five spokes and they have the pictured void in the casting allowing the 0.25" or so of wheel stud to protrude past the spacer body. The nuts are conical and do not protrude. I check and retorque them every tire rotation and no loosening at all. No loctite used here.

 

[bloc]

Spacers are perfectly fine folks !!!!!!!! you don't want a huge space I will give you that but anything inder 1.50 is no problem, Hubcentric spacers are a must i beleive though and obviously you don't want the nuts holding the wheel spacers on protruding, thats just a s***ty design cheap spacer

Spacers negatively impact scrub radius depending on tire diameter, add forces to the hub bearing and suspension pivots they weren't designed for, and double the chances of serious problems from loose lug nuts. Yes, all of this would be worse with a 3" spacer vs 1.5, but the forces and geometry are still there.

I guess all of that can be considered "no problem" by some people. But unklwedy's point of a proper offset wheel being a much better option is absolutely correct.

Edit: no hate, but seeing a 6" bracket lifted 4runner in your sig confirms some people's standards for "fine" are different. You won't see many people here that would install a bracket lift on a 200 if it were even available.

 

[nwfl4runner]

A good spacer is the same as aftermarket wheels with a different offset. I wouldn’t go for 1” as you do deal with studs and engagement, 1.25 is safer and you won’t notice the extra .25. Just don’t cheap out, a good set is all of what, $250 for 4? Spidertrax or Bora, and just use loctite. A blow torch is better than a loose wheel.

 

[Fishinsea]

Spacers negatively impact scrub radius depending on tire diameter, add forces to the hub bearing and suspension pivots they weren't designed for, and double the chances of serious problems from loose lug nuts. Yes, all of this would be worse with a 3" spacer vs 1.5, but the forces and geometry are still there.

I guess all of that can be considered "no problem" by some people. But unklwedy's point of a proper offset wheel being a much better option is absolutely correct.

Edit: no hate, but seeing a 6" bracket lifted 4runner in your sig confirms some people's standards for "fine" are different. You won't see many people here that would install a bracket lift on a 200 if it were even available.

As for the 6" lifted 18 4runner in my sig, its my daughters, she's 17 years old and her first vehicle and thats what she begged for. You try to Explain that to her if you would, you would be doing me a favor.

As for trying to put a bracket lift on a LC200 ,that would be about as retarded as your statement above " no hate " lol GFYS
I believe my my OME 2" lift SPC UCA set-up on my 2018 is tastefully done but will no way meet the standards of your LC200 Cheers mate

 

[bloc]

A good spacer is the same as aftermarket wheels with a different offset.

No, it’s not. It is ten studs and nuts per wheel vs five. Quality parts and proper assembly will obviously help avoid issues but it is not close to the same as solid metal as an integral part of the wheel itself providing the offset change.

Cheers mate

Same to you

 

[TeCKis300]

Spacers negatively impact scrub radius depending on tire diameter, add forces to the hub bearing and suspension pivots they weren't designed for, and double the chances of serious problems from loose lug nuts. Yes, all of this would be worse with a 3" spacer vs 1.5, but the forces and geometry are still there.

I guess all of that can be considered "no problem" by some people. But unklwedy's point of a proper offset wheel being a much better option is absolutely correct.

Edit: no hate, but seeing a 6" bracket lifted 4runner in your sig confirms some people's standards for "fine" are different. You won't see many people here that would install a bracket lift on a 200 if it were even available.

To clarify, the moment one fits a larger overall diameter tire, is when the stock offset is no longer correct and optimal. It can be said that a spacer can correct for proper scrub radius in this situation.

For a roughly 33" tire, the proper offset for optimal scrub radius is approximately 42mm. By fitting a 1" spacer in my case, for an effective offset of ~35, my fitment is closer to correct than without it (stock offset is 60mm). Note that while 1.25" spacers may be convenient to source, it puts offset further out of optimal (~25mm offset with a stock wheel)

I agree with your points in general, but so long as all the necessary attention and precautions are taken when fitting a spacer, then it can be a reasonably good solution. In some ways preferable to the wrong offset that stock would be, or lower load ratings of aftermarket wheels, or the very wrong offset (combined with lower load ratings) of many aftermarket wheels.

Proper fitting IMO include
1) Torquing all lugs on the spacer 2x when fitting. Once when first installed. Another time after about ~50 miles. (similar to all new aluminum wheels, things can take a set once mounted)
2) Apply blue lock tight on hidden lugs, on second round of torque
3) It's preferred to be on or over torque specification (within reason!) than under. Under is bad, breaks lugs and looses wheels.

 

[nwfl4runner]

No, it’s not. It is ten studs and nuts per wheel vs five. Quality parts and proper assembly will obviously help avoid issues but it is not close to the same as solid metal as an integral part of the wheel itself providing the offset change.

If your studs are going to fail, or lug nuts going to fail, they don’t know they’re failing on a spacer vs. a wheel. Installing them incorrectly isn’t the spacers fault. I don’t disagree with your premise by any means, but in a practical sense if spacers can handle KOH, most folks here should be OK.

 

[bloc]

To clarify, the moment one fits a larger overall diameter tire, is when the stock offset is no longer correct and optimal. It can be said that a spacer can correct for proper scrub radius in this situation.

For a roughly 33" tire, the proper offset for optimal scrub radius is approximately 42mm. By fitting a 1" spacer in my case, for an effective offset of ~35, my fitment is closer to correct than without it (stock offset is 60mm). Note that while 1.25" spacers may be convenient to source, it puts offset further out of optimal (~25mm offset with a stock wheel)

I agree with your points in general, but so long as all the necessary attention and precautions are taken when fitting a spacer, then it can be a reasonably good solution. In some ways preferable to the wrong offset that stock would be, or lower load ratings of aftermarket wheels, or the very wrong offset (combined with lower load ratings) of many aftermarket wheels.

Proper fitting IMO include
1) Torquing all lugs on the spacer 2x when fitting. Once when first installed. Another time after about ~50 miles. (similar to all new aluminum wheels, things can take a set once mounted)
2) Apply blue lock tight on hidden lugs, on second round of torque
3) It's preferred to be on or over torque specification (within reason!) than under. Under is bad, breaks lugs and looses wheels.

That’s exactly why I said depending on tire diameter.. in fact some of what I have learned about scrub radius is from your posts.

My point stands. Adding another face to the system and doubling the fasteners increases the potential for trouble compared to the proper solid wheel. It isn’t the same. I’m not saying it can’t work.. and your method is the exact kind of thing anyone considering spacers should be paying attention to, but it’s not the same, and to say it is is misinformation.

OR.. tundra long arm swap!

 

[bloc]

If your studs are going to fail, or lug nuts going to fail, they don’t know they’re failing on a spacer vs. a wheel. Installing them incorrectly isn’t the spacers fault. I don’t disagree with your premise by any means, but in a practical sense if spacers can handle KOH, most folks here should be OK.

KOH rigs don’t often get forgotten about for 50k miles then haul people’s kids down the highway at 80mph.

And let’s not forget this whole thread wouldn’t have been posted if OP used a wheel with 1” different offset..

 

[nwfl4runner]

KOH rigs don’t often get forgotten about for 50k miles then haul people’s kids down the highway at 80mph.

And let’s not forget this whole thread wouldn’t have been posted if OP used a wheel with 1” different offset..

I’ll agree with that 100%!

 

[Rigger]

Very happy to learn that the problem was solved.

 

[highfructose]

1” spacers seem to fit on stock 08-11 lx570 wheels.

Does anyone know whether 0.75” spacers will also fit on those wheels?

 

[grinchy]

1” spacers seem to fit on stock 08-11 lx570 wheels.

Does anyone know whether 0.75” spacers will also fit on those wheels?

They fit the hub fine. But the hub stubs will protrude past the spacer. Some wheels have a void/pocket that the hub studs can go into on the back of the wheel. Some don't.