1" Front Wheel Spacers Added

[wngrog]

I run 1" spacers from www.performancewheel.com

They cost me the same as simple 5 on 5.5 ones. I think they were $120 shipped for the pair.

 

[uHu]

Track width change

For the actual measurements of track width when lifting, I took the AHC for a ride.
When lifting 38 mm (to H) from Normal height setting, the track went down by 10 mm.
When hoisting another 38 mm (to the end of the shocks) the track width was reduced by another 18-20 mm.
Then I tried the Low setting, down 50 mm from N, and the track increased by 6 mm. In Low, the lower arm looks ~ horizontal.

So, without calculating or measuring exactly, if you lift 2" (51 mm), the track will be ~ .6" (15 mm) narrower.
In addition, you might want to look at stability with regards to higher center of gravity, as Hoser mentions above.

BTW, anyone can measure this w/o ahc, just use a jack.

 

[Snook]

I didn't do the rear because only the front track is effected by lifting

I am considering adding 1.25" spacer in the rear because during the extreme frame twisting, the 35" MTR sidewall is rubbing inside the wall, not the ceiling as I expected. So adding spacer will move the tire a bit away from the wall, my guess.

Rubbing the wall is not bothering me however it added lots of fiction as if something is holding me back, forcing me to add more gas than I normally want to.

At first I thought of putting 1" steel extension to lower the rubber bump to stop the rear axle from going too high but the rear flexiblity is reduce.

Regards,

 

[spressomon]

Thanks.. I actually sent Christo an email earlier today to ask him about spacers... Approximately what did they run (ballpark)

Thanks again

I think they were $190ish...sorry it's been awhile.

 

[dclee]

I am considering adding 1.25" spacer in the rear because during the extreme frame twisting, the 35" MTR sidewall is rubbing inside the wall, not the ceiling as I expected. So adding spacer will move the tire a bit away from the wall, my guess.

Rubbing the wall is not bothering me however it added lots of fiction as if something is holding me back, forcing me to add more gas than I normally want to.

At first I thought of putting 1" steel extension to lower the rubber bump to stop the rear axle from going too high but the rear flexiblity is reduce.

Regards,

Snook, is this only happening on one side of the truck? If so, it might be the slight movement of the axle sideways as the truck is lifted. I wonder if Christo's adjustable rear Panhard (or adjustable joint) would work on the 100. Christo?

Once I lift, I'd like to get the rear axle re-centered (even if it's only off by a few millimeters).

 

[beachcruiser]

Great info... I will follow up with Christo and some pics when it comes together... Thanks

 

[sleeoffroad]

We should have 100 series adjustable panhard rods pretty soon.

 

[spressomon]

We should have 100 series adjustable panhard rods pretty soon.

Good timing....as I was thinking about making my own...but no time. Christo...any idea with 2" lift how much correction would be needed?

 

[Snook]

Snook, is this only happening on one side of the truck? If so, it might be the slight movement of the axle sideways as the truck is lifted.

The tire rubbing is even on both side, same location.

However, my stiff rear coil spring (forgot which 6XX it is) has sagged a bit so I may need 1 1/4" spacers and adjustable panhandle after installing a stiffer coil springs which will lift it even more.

Regards,

 

[CrusrDug]

The 1" spacer that we are talking about is actually more commonly called a wheel adapter. Wheel adapters have their own studs. So basically, you fasten the adapter onto the existing studs and then fasten the wheel onto the new studs.

If you wanted to use spacers (the ones without it's own studs), I am guessing you could do 1/4" or so. Basic rule of thumb is that you want at least 6.5 turns on the nut when fastening wheels. But you also want the stud to protrude past the nut/wheel mating surface.

Here is a picture of the wheel adapters we are using. It is also called an adapter because it is commonly used to change the bolt pattern. Notice the special low profile tapered lug nuts--those actually fasten to the existing studs (and not where they are pictured) because you need to also need to get a socket wrench into that tight space.

Does the 5/8 lug stick out past the spacer? I was asked when I was ordering today if the wheel has pockets to accommodate this. Otherwise, the studs would need to be ground down. They thought the 1 in adapter may not be thick enough. I know a lot have used these type of adapters, but I thought I would ask before I pulled my wheel
Thanks

 

[hoser]

I'm not sure what you mean by 5/8 lug but yes, the existing lugs will stick out ~ 1/4" past a 1" wheel adapter. Yes, the OEM alloy wheels have pockets that can accomodate the lugs and part of the lugnuts. No grinding down of anything needed.

 

[CrusrDug]

Thanks. That's what I was looking for. See- you knew

 

[LEXCRUISER]

Is there any vibration or shaking when putting the adapters?

 

[spressomon]

Is there any vibration or shaking when putting the adapters?

Not with mine.

 

[calamaridog]

Is there any vibration or shaking when putting the adapters?

If you already have vibration and shaking it will still be there...

 

[spressomon]

FYI: Christo (Slee Offroad) is considering having 3/4" wheel spacers made for the 100. Call him for details.

 

[LEXCRUISER]

Thank's!