1/4 eplitcal suspension???

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but, the mounts can be anywhere

That is not really true for two reasons. 1) If you place your springs on the outside of the frame, you need to have an axle that is sufficiently wide to accomodate the outboarded springs. Your sig states that you have a mini rear axle. I am not convinced that is wide enough to outboard the spring packs.

2) Quarter elliptical springs set up this way (as on many of the Proffitt Cruisers) produce a large amount of drop because the spring pivots at the front of the spring. On a traditional 1/4 the spring pack is anchored to the frame. This means that the arc that the axle moves in is totally determined by the geometry of the links. If the spring can also move in an arc, the suspension will be messed up unless the arc of the springs is the same, or very similar, to that permitted by the link geometry. You can't just slap the springs and the links together if you go that route -- you need to make sure the link geometry (arc) and the spring arc are integrated. IMO, this is a much more difficult arrangement to get right.

BTW an "full elliptical" spring is the traditional buggy spring, with one spring pack concave up and th eother pack concave down and th etwo springs joined by shackles on both ends.:D
 
Before,And Kinda After...

Ok Heres Some Pics For My Top Single/Tri That Went To The Axle. At Center Of Hole Was 4" So I Cut That Of... And Put A 3/8" Plate Box On The Top For 2 Links To Come Off..
2161190_62.webp
2161190_63.webp
2161190_64.webp
 
Full_M3tal said:
Ok Heres Some Pics For My Top Single/Tri That Went To The Axle. At Center Of Hole Was 4" So I Cut That Of... And Put A 3/8" Plate Box On The Top For 2 Links To Come Off..



Any chance you could post up some larger pics and maybe another close-up or 2?? I wouldnt want to judge your set-up based on such small pics:cool:
 
Sorry About The Small Pics... Its Te Only Way To Not Fill Up My Attahments So Fast... Need To Get Silver Star... But ALll The Larger Pictures Are On My Cardomain Page On My Signature....


-Medusa

Thanks For The Knowledge.. Didn't Think Of That Very Much.. Im Putting The Sptings On The Frame... My Axle Is Going About 7" Inwards From The Back.


So Far On The Build... I Am Going To Have To Set My Engine In Before I Build My Link Arm Brackets.... Today I Made Some Engine And Trans Mount.. Hope To Have It Set In Soon....
 
This Is Confusing, Buy A Star And Get Some Bigger Pics... Its Worth It With All The Info Were Getting From The Gurus....





Caps Rocks!!
 
bandy rooster said:
Caps Rocks!!
Boy, I am going to come out there and beat you up.....


:flipoff2:
 
Not saying that this is the "best" way to have a truss on a mini axle, but I am a lot more comfortable with it then your current set up...assuming that it is a "finished" upper mount.

The tube helps truss the axle, because they really are spindely little piles. Where the 3 braces come down to the housing, it was plated with 1/4" plate. I just get nervous about these housings tearing with out lots of weld area on 'em, i.e. T100 spring perches.

Mace:flipoff2: You like my limit strap!
willysminiaxle.webp
 
LAME said:
Not saying that this is the "best" way to have a truss on a mini axle, but I am a lot more comfortable with it then your current set up...assuming that it is a "finished" upper mount.

The tube helps truss the axle, because they really are spindely little piles. Where the 3 braces come down to the housing, it was plated with 1/4" plate. I just get nervous about these housings tearing with out lots of weld area on 'em, i.e. T100 spring perches.

Mace:flipoff2: You like my limit strap!
I was just about to comment on your sweet limit strap ;)
 
LAME said:
Not saying that this is the "best" way to have a truss on a mini axle, but I am a lot more comfortable with it then your current set up...assuming that it is a "finished" upper mount.

The tube helps truss the axle, because they really are spindely little piles. Where the 3 braces come down to the housing, it was plated with 1/4" plate. I just get nervous about these housings tearing with out lots of weld area on 'em, i.e. T100 spring perches.

Yeah I Still Plan on Boxing It The Rest Of The Way In... And Using Pipe And Plate For Side Supports... And Also One Shaped Like A "U" To Go From Back Of The Bracket To Bottom Back Of Diff..
 
peesalot said:
Noone is gonna throw the flag on niners bezel foul ?


Old photo was tying to get it to cool better, it has since been rectified. :flipoff2:

Look in the Avatar :grin:
 
Why are you not sinking the box on to the top of the axle tube. it will be strong and not look as gey.
 
If i were doing a 1/4 elliptical suspension i would find someones that did it right, solid and simple and mimic there suspension to the best of my abilities. I think a novice builder should learn through the process of what others have done and what works properly rather the the trial and error process you seem to be goin through. this is obviously taking alot of time and I think it would you would be better off finding one thats already done and copy it rather then just wingin' it..
.

it seems as though the higher you make that mount the less for it will take to rip off at the bottom where it was mounted, i'm not sure about this but the leverage your give the mounting point at the top would make it easier to tear off the top of the diff.
 
bandy rooster said:
it seems as though the higher you make that mount the less for it will take to rip off at the bottom where it was mounted, i'm not sure about this but the leverage your give the mounting point at the top would make it easier to tear off the top of the diff.


No, the forces seen at the weld between the upper link mount and the axle are not created by the link, they are created by the center of the axle. So the weld sees the same forces regardless of the length of the upper link mount.

The upper links will see less force tho..
 

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