1/4 eplitcal suspension??? (1 Viewer)

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you should be able to get DOM from any steel yard, it is a common structural tube

Take a look in your yellow pages and see what’s near by. Prices seem to very depending where you are in the country. Prices around here are around $4 a ft for 2" ~1/8" wall last a checked (few months back)

you could also sleeve your links if you decide they aren’t up to the task but want to rock the same joints

here is a good thread in pirate that trys to “dumb down” approaching building a link suspension.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=168577


:beer:
 
Hey guys if your looking for a good read on the subject of tube vs pipe and all thats in between there is a good article in Febuary 2006 Petersen's 4Wheel entitled "Pullin Tube". Check it out, its pretty informative.
 
I thought the links that Fullsize posted gave a pretty good explanation of the differnt types and processes of tube. On another note, the only place I have found atound here to get DOM tubing is a company in Salt Lake called Marmon Keystone. I will be picking up some 2" x .120 later this week, price quoted was $3.10 per foot. I talked to two or three pipe supply houses around town and they all buy from them. Cage construction coming soon!
 
Alan, i think Metal mart in Lehi also sells this..... but most people i have talked to have gone to Marmon Keystone....i've bought mine from Rocklogic or their is a place on the frontage rd of 2100 S. but they only has small quanties (20' or so)

might give them a call just to see, but i know Marmon is in SLC and metal mart in lehi... the drive might cancel out the savings....

also, i've heard of people shipping DOM from California, with shipping included, it's still cheaper than buyin it here, although the prices change about as much as gas, and could easily be more money now..
 
That's OK fullsize, I see your point, I got your point, and with alittle help. Full-metal will too. I appreciate the fact that your main concern is for the safety of the system which of course directly effects the safety of the occupants. I garantee you that when his 40 rolls out of the shop it will be safe. He has pretty well been on his own with this project from the start. He has done a lot of reading, studying and fabricating. With the generous help of people like you, Medusa, Mace, Woody and the countless others, we here will all get a great education in suspension. Thank you.
And Woody, I don't know where you got the info on pipe, but that was great! I have been in the Mechanical end of the building industry for 25+ years and had never seen that. Thanks to you also.
 
Update...

Ok So I Sold My Rollbar, Got 110$ Out Of It... Hoped For More... But Thats Ebay... Did Loads Of Research On Mud/Pirate And decided To Cut Of All Of My Link Mounts And Re-do Them... Im Going With 2 1/4"(2.25)
KREW Tubing 1/2"(.50) Wall, 3/4" Weld In Inserts,
And A 3/4" x 3/4" Jimmy Joint... Inserts And Joint Im Getting From Rocklogic...
 
Full_M3tal said:
Im Going With 2 1/4"(2.25)
KREW Tubing 1/2"(.50) Wall, 3/4" Weld In Inserts,
And A 3/4" x 3/4" Jimmy Joint... Inserts And Joint Im Getting From Rocklogic...

Damn dude, I thought you were gonna get strong stuff? :flipoff2:

Sounds beefy.. (I assume you meant Hrew?)
 
Ya Sorry Hrew... Found Out 1/4" Wall Is To Small And Bend On Vehical Presser On A Rock, Found .4375 wall Works Best... So Im Just Going Straight To .50 (1/2") Wall... Aslo Found Out Dom When It Hit And Objest That It Will Take The Impct And Absorb It.... But With Hrew It Will Asorb The Shock Then Vibrate Thru The Metal For Less Impact.... More Or Less:

Dom: Metal Bump Stop
Hrew: Rubber Bump Stop...

Atleast This Is What Im Told At The Distributor The Sells The Tubing In Salt Lake...


But Now Im In Complete Redisign Of My Links, And Torching Every Thing Off And Making It Better

(Got Beef?)

Oh Ya My WB Is 109" Right Now Might Stretch It Out More For New Links... Some Where Around....112"-116"....
 
I used 1 1/4" OD X 5/16" wall DOM tubing ,then you end up with a .625 ID and you can just tap it for 3/4" fine thread.
 
Problem with the smaller diameter links is that they are not as strong as larger diameter tubing...
1.25" barstock is significantly weaker that .250 wall 2" tubing..
 
Mace said:
Problem with the smaller diameter links is that they are not as strong as larger diameter tubing...
1.25" barstock is significantly weaker that .250 wall 2" tubing..


I have only damaged 1 in 14 years and that was from racing it in a tuff truck event and landed wrong on the cars, at a high rate of speed. Since I quit racing it in tuff trucks I haven't broke any.
 
the 1.5" OD and .4375 wall lowers on mine are bent....roll it a couple times and use the link as a landing point, and you want it solid...since the uppers don't take any direct contact, they can get away with thinner.

my lowers will be 2" solid alum soon enuf....
 
You mean basically 2 leaf springs put together???


Sounds like a big freaking headache..
 
woody said:
the 1.5" OD and .4375 wall lowers on mine are bent....roll it a couple times and use the link as a landing point, and you want it solid...since the uppers don't take any direct contact, they can get away with thinner.

my lowers will be 2" solid alum soon enuf....

Keep 'em on the wheels woodrow! :flipoff2:
 
Take a 32" long link made out of mild steel

If it is 1.25x .5 wall it only takes 1,100 lbs to bend it.

If it is made out of 2" .250 wall it will take 3,300 lbs to bend it.

2" .500 wall = 4,500 lbs

And 7075 AL barstock = 7,000 lbs

If you have a heavy rig it is much nicer to build big..
 
Mace said:
You mean basically 2 leaf springs put together???


Sounds like a big freaking headache..

No, You Take One End Mount Of The Leaf. Mount It To The Frame... Then The Other Side Of The Leaf Mount To The Axle Like A Quarter Elip.... Tike A Pipe Mount To Frame Down Towards Leaf With Plate On End To Hit The Center Pin.... You Can Kind Of See It On Profitts Cruiser Heres The Page:

http://www.proffittscruisers.com/tigger/photo7.html
 

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