1/2 or 3/4 ply for platform?

[WTITW]

Building a rear seat delete platform. Im prototyping with cheap plywood but plan on finishing with baltic birch.

Does anyone know what the manufacturers are using (i.e. goose gear/ adgu)? Three-quarter seems like overkill but half inches a little thin unless braced properly.

 

[Silent Neuroman]

I'm embarking on a similar effort next week. I will be using 3/4 because that is what is leaned up in my garage from other projects. If I had to buy something it would be 1/2.
S.

 

[WTITW]

I'm embarking on a similar effort next week. I will be using 3/4 because that is what is leaned up in my garage from other projects. If I had to buy something it would be 1/2.
S.

Okay, great. I think I’ll stick to 1/2 since Im building it on a big ass aluminum bar like some of the manufacturers do.

 

[TheNomad]

I think if there is any type of support in the middle then 1/2 will def be ok. I had 3/4 around and i have one large drawer with no center support. I would probably go 1/2 next time. Even if it flexes when getting on and off its the nature of wood and when laying down the load is spread.

 

[Roody]

Paging @JDUB fab

 

[JDUB fab]

1/2” with support should be fine. I’m going to use 1/4” aluminum as that’s what I have laying around, with some support so it doesn’t flex. I plan on moving the key sensor and the wires that run along the edge to get a little closer to body level.
@jakemccurdy you utilizing the cut file posted in another thread? Or building your own template?

 

[WTITW]

1/2” with support should be fine. I’m going to use 1/4” aluminum as that’s what I have laying around, with some support so it doesn’t flex. I plan on moving the key sensor and the wires that run along the edge to get a little closer to body level.
@jakemccurdy you utilizing the cut file posted in another thread? Or building your own template?

Building my own unless a great one exists. My plan is to build the platform and make a video and post .ai or .dxw files for my design. Got any good designs I can refer to? Aluminum deck sounds good if you can brace it well. I looked into HDPE and it's not that cost effective or much better than baltic birch with a coat of bedliner.

There are things I like and don't like about Goose gear and Air Down gear up which are the two I've researched most. The Goose gear design would be super easy to knock off but it's weak with minimal metal. Air Down gear up has the right idea with the aluminum bar but I hate idea of sliding boxes over that huge slab if I don't have drawers in.

I'm going to try to combine the best of both in my design by putting the flat bar underneath.

Prototyping with a piece of mid-grade plywood (42.125x41.5" covers from the sill to the back of the seats) . I just reused the factory covers that go behind the wheel wells for now and I think I'll put a power panel in there for my fridge on the L side. Probably just cover the gaps with ply like Goose gear. Going to use @THEOZMAN 's 3rd seat harness for the fridge/usb panel.

 

[JDUB fab]

Check out this thread, @KNR made a great file. Havnt cut it out yet on my CNC but hopefully will in a couple weeks.

3rd Row Delete And Rear Drawer Build

I finally got around to documenting my rear base plate and drawer build. I used 1/4" aluminum for the base plate, top plate, front and side wings. The box frame was made with Tnutz extrusions. The drawer boxes are galvanized metal. Front latch was a goose gear latch. I drew up the base...

forum.ih8mud.com

Even without a CNC one could print it at staples on a plotter and trace it on a piece of wood or something.

 

[WTITW]

Check out this thread, @KNR made a great file. Havnt cut it out yet on my CNC but hopefully will in a couple weeks.

3rd Row Delete And Rear Drawer Build

I finally got around to documenting my rear base plate and drawer build. I used 1/4" aluminum for the base plate, top plate, front and side wings. The box frame was made with Tnutz extrusions. The drawer boxes are galvanized metal. Front latch was a goose gear latch. I drew up the base...

forum.ih8mud.com

Even without a CNC one could print it at staples on a plotter and trace it on a piece of wood or something.

That's a beautiful build but I want to keep mine simpler so someone without a CNC machine could do it. Also, isn't all that aluminum heavy? 1/4" aluminum is 2-3x the weight of 1/2 baltic birch. I think I'll skip the side flares behind the wheel wells since those are ideal locations for power anyway. Super jealous you guys have access to CNC machines though...

 

[JDUB fab]

That's a beautiful build but I want to keep mine simpler so someone without a CNC machine could do it. Also, isn't all that aluminum heavy? 1/4" aluminum is 2-3x the weight of 1/2 baltic birch. I think I'll skip the side flares behind the wheel wells since those are ideal locations for power anyway. Super jealous you guys have access to CNC machines though...

Agree about the weight, I have a CNC router too.. so I can cut wood if needed. I was actually planning on cutting a wood version first, to check the file for accuracy as aluminum is crazy expensive.