Thoughts on Power Pack from MAF (1 Viewer)

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Shinichi

Shinichi

Joined
Mar 28, 2006
Threads
77
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569
Location
Basalt, Co
I am in the middle of putting new springs on my Cruiser, and in the process I have removed my exhaust from the cat back. Seeing how tired all the old OE stuff is, I want to clean up my engine too. Smog regulations are not an issue, but money, as always, is. Man-a-Fre is advertising a "Power Pack" that seems to have everything needed to really clean up, simplify, and update the engine. It is not cheap, but seems resonably priced for all new stuff. I plan on owning and driving this truck for a long time, so doing it right the first time is important.
My question is, will this "kit" noticably improve the drivability of the Cruiser? If a complete (harness, fuel tank, head, ect..) FJ62 fuel injection system was available, would this be a better project in the long run. My motor is strong and clean running for a 200K+ motor. I have no illusions of having a hot rod 2f/2fe, I am interested in cold starts, hot starts, off-road driving, and relative FJ60 economy.

Thanks
 
If you want to simplify the engine compartment, do a proper desmog. Then just have your carb and distributer rebuilt for this setup. Add some headers and you just built your own, simpler "power pack" for less and with all factory parts.

Switching to FI would require more effort, probably cost more, but would definitely up the cool factor.


...my two cents
 
promises, promises

I did the same thing on an old 40 and got an overall average 2 mpg increase in mileage… and more power which probably encouraged me to keep my foot in the throttle more. About a net increase of 12.5%... gas mileage wise at $ 3.00 / gal it would take a while to recover the cost of $ 1,565 + freight in savings for gas costs. You'll have to do the math to see if it works for you.

You might do better to rebuild your stock carb and add the header if you are just set on having one… personally, I do not buy the 4mpg claim since I never got near that local or highway. It could be a 4mpg difference between a very poorly tuned engine and the power pack.
 
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I think the price is the killer. Someday I think having all that stuff would be cool, but not yet. I am going to start with the 6-1 $150 header sans cat and use the 2 1/2" exhaust kit. I will make an extension where the cat would be. I will do my best to de-smog the stock carb and clean things up there a bit. Does any know of an idler pully to replace the smog pump, or is gutting it the only option?

Got my springs today, now I just need the time to put them on.:)
 
Shinichi said:
Does any know of an idler pully to replace the smog pump, or is gutting it the only option?

Click to expand...

I think that SOR has one. Have heard that JimC sells them too.
 
lovetoski said:
I think that SOR has one. Have heard that JimC sells them too.
Click to expand...

I have the one that JimC sells on my 87. It is a sweet, well made unit at about 1/3 of the price of SORs. If youre into billet bling, by all means, buy the one from SOR. If you want to spend around $100 for a good functional piece, give JimC a call. He is FJ40jim here on Ih8mud.

--not affiliated with JimC, just a satisfied customer.--

Hodag

PS. JimC will also rebuild your carb and recurve your distributor after the desmog.
 
Shinichi,

What springs did you end up buying? I live in Glenwood, have seen the Cruiser in your avatar pic. Is it the one that has been parked for a bit in a field just off 82?
 
Money well spent

As another one of Jim's pimps, I would recommend that you send him the carb and the distributor and get him to guru you through a desmog. You will have $300 in the carb rebuild/set up, $100 in the distributor, $100 for the smog pump replacement idler pully and another few bucks on spark plugs, vacuum hoses, and if needed, plug wires. He will set it up for your altitude if need be. That's doing it right the first time. If your engine is fresh, you go with 33 inch tires, keep your right foot under control, you will get 15+mpg.
In regard to exhaust, the Toyota tailpipe/muffler combo (stuff behind the cat) is about $135 which is reasonable. However, those little rubber isolators can be expensive (the ones with the 4 10mm bolts). I think I got mine from C-Dan. I took my CAT and cut the flanges off and took them to a local muffler guy. He welded a straight pipe to the exact length of the CAT and I stuck it back on. That way I could use my existing stock exhaust pipe hangers. It works great but you will get more sound than with the CAT, which does considerable sound dampening.
 
alpendubber said:
What springs did you end up buying? I live in Glenwood, have seen the Cruiser in your avatar pic. Is it the one that has been parked for a bit in a field just off 82?
Click to expand...

That is the one. I had been watching it for almost two years and it never moved. The owner put another vehicle up for sale on the same lot, so I took a shot in the dark and called him about it. He stopped driving it because it was overheating, but it was just an air bubble in the system. After two years of not being driven, we just put a battery in it and it started. I figured out the cooling issue the next week.

Anyway, I traded some used ome springs for my stockers from someone who bringing his soa rig back down to earth. It is a sick rig, but a little bigger than he wanted I guess.

As for the HO and his pimps, sounds like that stuff (and help) is the way to go. Do you have pics or a wedsite? My first priority is to connect my axles back to the truck, then I will be in touch. Bling is not really my thing, I am not opposed to good looking stuff, but value and fuction come first.

Alpendubber, I just met John at Clear Vue in the Basalt Buisiness center. If you get up that way check out his 40, he did some cool stuff, including flat tube fenders and a highly modified (by him) Proffitt 4-link.
 
http://www.man-a-fre.com/pa/powerpackfj60.htm

They make some big claims...Not for Californians...
fj60powerpack.jpg
 
don't know how jim calls the DUI dist cheap. Even before Performance Distribubers was machining GM HEI bodies to fit F, 2F motors , there was K&L
of california. Even in 1980 an HEI setup was nearly 300.00. I looked into producing them myself but by the time i machined all new bodies , gathered the
new components and assembled the package I couldn't come to market with enough savings over Performance to justify the work.
The GM HEI still holds it's place amoung the performance people as the best OEM ignition ever built. Which is why companies go to the trouble of fitting them to Ford, Dodge, Toyota , AMC , Rover, Jeep and others. Toyota ignitions will never gain that honor
I bought a 78 new, and in 1980 I installed HEI from K& L (long retired) the stock ignition couldn't hold a candle to it when it came to low end pulling. To it's favor ,the stock ignition was fully waterproof ,howver i don't ever remember drowning out an HEI.
 
That is why I wanted to hear some actual feedback. Now I am wondering if the the DUI and related items are worth the price, or is having the OE distributor "recurved" (something I have not heard of before) the more prudent way to go.

Jim C, can you explain the cost and effect of a "recurve" and how it is better than HEI. If I don't go with Fuel injection, I am sold on the OE carb being rebuilt...
 
lcwizard said:
the stock ignition was fully waterproof ,howver i don't ever remember drowning out an HEI.
Click to expand...

Beat me to it. Can a DUI be waterproof. I don't plan on being submerged, but water crossings are not out of the question.
 
I teamed up with Don Robbins in the ARCA rock crawling events during the first five years. Our first truck was a 77 FJ40, street legal (in Az) we ran a high compression 2F in front of a SM420, with FJ60 axles., 38" swampers We ran the fully electronic ignition from a 78 2F. With the stock ignition we could not
pull below 650 RPM. It was the only thing about the six cylinder that frustrated us. We changed to HEI and all of a sudden we had a truck that would idle up a wall a roll over backwards.It would keep firing without missing down to 350 RPM
 
The HEI doesn't drown easily.
But if you're worried, it has a vent screen on the bottom that can be siliconed over making it more waterproof. This isn't recommended if you're going to exceed 7500 rpm in your motor with any regularity.
I hear Toyota frowns on this
 
lcwizard said:
if you're going to exceed 7500 rpm in your motor with any regularity.
Click to expand...

That's funny!
 
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