FJ62 Radiator removal (1 Viewer)

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A

AZLC

Joined
Jun 28, 2005
Threads
24
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83
Location
Peoria, AZ
My FJ62 is running hot. Almost hit red on run up I-17 towards Flagstaff. I have replaced the following in the last month. Water pump(oem) and Fan Clutch(oem) and most hoses(oem).

During install of fan clutch I noticed a radiator leak from the area of seam between lower tank and fins - not sure though. It is hard to see while it in the truck. I tried to plug with repair kit. Seems to have helped a little bit.

I tested the thermostat today. Opened in hot water about 10mm, in spec. I replaced the thermostat anyway with oem and took another run up I-17. It did a little better. The thermostat I replaced looks nothing like the oem one and was lacking rubber o-seal on top.

Now here is where I may be a penney wise and a pound foolish.

If I was to get it fixed in Phoenix, who should I go to?

I am up-to-date on the replacement choices (oem$550, MAF$625+, Performance Radiator$231).

And, FSM says I have to discharge AC and remove the front of truck to get it out. Is this true?

Since the truck did like highway hills, I stress tested the new Aussie locker in the rear at the Bumble Bee turnoff(pipeline trail). It did really well!:D
 
Yup the AC has to be discharged....real gay.

I had toyota quote me, they too thought it was a fairly ez job, so they quoted low, and they stood by thier quote when they discovered it was a more in depth job.
 
Do not discharge the AC.

Have you checked the timing?

I have a performance radiator and think it is a good deal even if it fails before an OEM one would. And I am an OEM kind of guy.

Knipe your fan shroud when you have it out and belt changes etc will be much easier. WTF, you may ask. Search here or the 3FE list via birfield.com and you will see. Basically, it is cutting the fan shroud in half horizontally leaving upper and lower parts. Then you just remove the upper part to provide much easier access to stuff. Like me, I am in the middle of a water pump install and it was so much easier with the shroud Kniped.

Dunbar
 
Just to be clear - So I can move the condenser around and not discharge AC. That $hit is gold. It is good to hear feedback on performance radiator. I set the timing about 3K ago when I did valve adjustment. Will do on fan shroud. The major scratches on my left wrist just healed from the fan clutch replacement.

 
AZLC said:
If I was to get it fixed in Phoenix, who should I go to?
Click to expand...

Ron Davis Radiator is in Phoenix and they make beautiful stuff.
A fellow there (Doug Schultz) has an early Bronco, and his radiator is a work of art. They may be pricey, but maybe not. It is worth it to check them out.

Andrew
 
Correct. You can do it without discharging the AC. I freaked when I first read that but it is nonsense. You can use a piece of cardboard to protect both the radiator and condenser fins when accessing the bolts behind the condenser that hold the radiator in.

Remove the battery tray and the job is easier. Also, a ratcheting 12mm end wrench will help a lot.

Dunbar

AZLC said:
Just to be clear - So I can move the condenser around and not discharge AC. That $hit is gold. It is good to hear feedback on performance radiator. I set the timing about 3K ago when I did valve adjustment. Will do on fan shroud. The major scratches on my left wrist just healed from the fan clutch replacement.

Click to expand...
 
Thanks for the support and info. It's a small world - Andrew mention Doug Schultz and his Bronco. Right after 9/11 we went to Moab with Doug and his family. Like a lot of people the past-time, Doug is a good guy. He was in the middle painting his Bronco Viper red when the attack occured. The doors of his Bronco were not done. So, Doug and his daughters painted the American Flag on each door.

Normally, I am not one to look at pictures, but the pictures taken on that trip are a joy to view.

Tim
 
Call up BAP import parts they beat performance's price for me. Just make sure you get the correct one, their book listed an 80's rad for my 62. And I was able to get it in without opening the A/C system. I would highly suggest you start oiling your at coolant lines or developa plan to replace them if they don't make it. In the end mine had to be cut out and replaced.

If you want to drive down to Tucson I'd give ya a hand on this job.
 
The new radiator is in. I went with a performance radiator product. Removing the battery and tray helped a bunch. While the transmission lines were off I did a rodney flush(that sounds weird) with new Mobile 1 synthetic ATF(13 qts). It is running good, but have not stress test it. May be tomorrow.
Tim
 
I took a run up to sunset point yesterday. The same run that caused the truck to run warm. I ran it hard as I could - no problem. :D The gauge barley moved. It sat just above the second white line.
 
That is a small world. Doug is a great guy. I love his rig and patriotism.

He comes out to wheel with us (So Cal Broncos) at Big Bear Bronco Bash in June. I am sure he wouldn't remember me by name, but if you told him I am the guy with the uncut rig that didn't run right because the timing was way off (an embarassing lesson learned), he would probably remember.

Andrew

AZLC said:
Thanks for the support and info. It's a small world - Andrew mention Doug Schultz and his Bronco. Right after 9/11 we went to Moab with Doug and his family. Like a lot of people the past-time, Doug is a good guy. He was in the middle painting his Bronco Viper red when the attack occured. The doors of his Bronco were not done. So, Doug and his daughters painted the American Flag on each door.

Normally, I am not one to look at pictures, but the pictures taken on that trip are a joy to view.

Tim
Click to expand...
 
Update on this issue. On my 62 I was able to remove the body piece that the hood release bolts to. 6 bolts. I was then able to get a wrench on the top radiator bolts with the condenser in place.
 
Resurrecting this thread...

I'm trying to take the radiator out of my 62. I've gotten as far as loosening the AC condenser and have gotten all but the last two bolts out for the radiator.

The two trouble bolts are in the bottom left hand side (facing the engine), the same side where the AC plumbing comes in. I can't get enough separation to get a tool on those two bolts. The condenser seems to be hung up by the hard line running back to the compressor. Any bright ideas?
 
(note: I read CSA's posted link. It's a handy write-up, but it skipped the part about how they got the condenser out of the way for the two bolts I mentioned above. Any help will be appreciated as I am dead in the driveway until I get this fixed.)
 
From what I remember, you shouldn't have to take out those two bottom bolts... Those are for the radiator support that has the rubber bushing. Once you get the top two bolts out (one on each side). Then you take out the bolts that hold the dryer on. Then ubolt the bolt that holds on the bushings on the bottom of the radiator on each side (the bolts are in a vertical orientation). Once you've done that, the radiator should pull out. This was how I did it the last time on my truck, but it could have been missing those bolts... I remember taking them out of my last 62 and scraping my fingers up pretty good.

Post up some pics maybe?
 
Thank you for helping me avoid grinding away the rest of my knuckles. lessons learned the hard way...

After getting a break in the heat wave I finally got the radiator out and to the shop for repair. I hope I didn't make a leak in my AC system pushing it around to get those bottom bolts. That would just about make me never want to turn a wrench on my own truck again.

I need to get a full manual for this truck.

Thanks again!
 
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