Spring-Over Costs (1 Viewer)

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S

Snaggin Wagon

Joined
Dec 7, 2005
Threads
2
Messages
11
Location
Langley, BC.
Hi everyone,

Could someone tell me how much a professional spring-over-axle and high-steer conversion should cost ($CAD) for a 1988 HJ61 JDM?

I just bought this rig a couple of months ago. It's my first TLC and so far I love it.

Trevor
 
Snaggin Wagon said:
Hi everyone,

Could someone tell me how much a professional spring-over-axle and high-steer conversion should cost ($CAD) for a 1988 HJ61 JDM?

I just bought this rig a couple of months ago. It's my first TLC and so far I love it.

Trevor
Click to expand...

Where are you located?

In the 40 series and 60 series sections there has been lots of talk about SOA conversion costs where shops have done it, or costs for doing it yourself.

In either case, if you are shopping around for a shop to do it, I would highly recommend you ensure apples are being compared to apples with quotes: Cut and turn of the front axle, and a rear anti-wrap setup.

There are a number of highsteer companies out there. One Canadian compnay that supplies a number of retailers is http://www.ottindustries.com/. Also, I have heard nothing but good about Luke Porters highsteer, and he has supplied RHD setups: http://www.4x4labs.com/

I know Brad was talking about an issue with the length of the cables for the lockers, but do not know his solution. Perhaps he will post up.

hth's

gb
 
Last edited:
I did the SOA on my 61.

I had the boys at aqualu cut and turn the front housing. I tried using a regular axle housing and did not like the u-joint angles. About $400 delivered to your door. Worth it IMOP.

The rear housing can just be rotated cutting off the old spring mounts. New Mopar spring mounts $15

All new U-bolts with 40 series plates $100 (I had the plates)

I went with lukes high steer arms and one ton GM ends with custom tie rod and drag link (a friend bought the taps needed) $330 for the arms, $200 for the ends and $100 for the DOM tubing. You WILL hit the oil pan on a 12H-T. You need to flip the front springs AND offset the spring pin hole on the axle housing by 1"

Brake lines front and rear need to be longer. I used mini truck lines from Napa. $50

Front cable locker will be fine; the rear will have to be longer. I haven't completely fixed this yet. The cable is still sitting on my bench with an extension on it. I used a small hiem joint at one end and solid mounted the other to the OEM cable. I modified the end that goes to the actuators on the floor. You also need to adjust the mounting bracket by using a spacer. The indicator wires must also be longer. princess auto for the parts $50

The parking brake needed to be moved.

You will need new longer shocks. I also relocated my upper shock mounts in the back and used ford towers in the front. I now have 14" of travel fr/Rr. I went with bilstien shocks. $400 for the shocks, $40 for the front towers.

I totally removed my front sway bar and made extensions for the rear. $10

I would also plan on a complete front end rebuild. Seal/wiper/gasket kit with trunion bearings $133. Wheel bearings $120.

Plus fluids and misc nuts and bolts. I am sure I have missed something.

I didn't modify my drive shafts but the front one is on the way out. It will get a long spline shaft and a double cardan joint when it goes.

So it looks like I spent $2000 for a complete SOA with all new steering components and a rebuilt front end.

YIKES a guy should never add this @&@&@&@& up!!!:eek:
 
I know that Mudrak down here charges $3,500+ for a SOA conversion...thats with him doing everything...
If you do all disassemble / reassemble work yourself and use your stock springs but have a pro do all your welding, it should end up costing about $2,000 - 3,000 USD depending on what you want to do....these are the things to consider (if you want to do it right):

Axle rebuild kit w/ bearings - $175
Cut & turn axle + new perch's - $350 - $400
Track bar for rear - $350
Add a leafs - $50
Shackle reversal - $200
New shackles - $200
Shocks - $300 - $500
New CV drivelines - $400 - $800 (if you need 2)
High Steer - $550
Ext Brake lines - $100

Now there are some things you can try and do w/o like CV drivelines, track bar, Shackle reversal etc....but how bad do you wanna break a pinion in the middle of nowhere?

I saw a guy at Pismo with a 60 who had less than $500 into his SOA....all he did was weld some extended arms to his stock steering arms so as to raise his steering linkage up then he just swaped the axle on top of his springs and made some funky shock mounts.....hell, he didn't even cut & turn or rebuild his axle. It actually looked suprisingly clean. Here is a pic

Personally I'd go balls out if I were to do a SOA....I like reliability
 
Last edited:
dieselbigot said:
Axle rebuild kit w/ bearings - $175
Cut & turn axle + new perch's - $350 - $400
Track bar for rear - $350
Add a leafs - $50
Shackle reversal - $200
New shackles - $200
Shocks - $300 - $500
New CV drivelines - $400 - $800 (if you need 2)
High Steer - $550
Ext Brake lines - $100

Personally I'd go balls out if I were to do a SOA....I like reliability
Click to expand...


You can do the cut and turn yourself or
find someone who knows how to do it. Perches - $50
Track Bar again do it yourself. Tubing? - $75-$100
If your springs are in good shape I dont think you need add a leafs - $0
SR (Really need it? Possibly, also heard of people making their own. - $0-$250
New Shackles - $100 or less if you do not mind used. - $100
Shocks - No way you spend $500 on shocks
unless you got $ to burn. Use Doetsch Tech 8000 prerunner
$30 something ea. @ summit. Shocks- $150-$200
No clue on cost of Driveshafts??
High steer http://www.4x4labs.com/products/steeringarms.html - $550
Extended brake lines Maybe - $50
get the NAPA extensions as long as your other lines are in good shape.

Thats $975 total if you do most of the work and order some of the parts. + the cost fo the driveshafts. (Which I have heard you need.) All of these prices are US sorry I dont know the conversion.
 
Here in Panama ( relatyve cheap manual labor vs yours ) 1500 USD all ..

turning and rebuild front axle, rear traction bar, CV driveshaft front ( 45ª) high steer etc ..
 
Thanks for all the info guys. It actually sounds cheaper than I expected to do it right. Brad, how does your truck handle now?

Greg, I'm in Langley. I think Ciaran told you about my truck when he came out to do some work for G&S a couple of weeks ago.

Thanks again, this board is a wealth of knowledge.
 
Well, I love it. The rear sway bar makes a big difference. I diodn't notice an improvement using the front and that is why I removed it.

Just some back ground. I started off with a stock truck (duh) added a belton lift with 33 tires, did a SOA with the beltons on 35" tires, removed the beltons and used the stock springs with 36" tires added 5.29 gears, axles spacers/IFS hubs, a 2" body lift and have 38" tires.

You can check out some of my progress http://www.toontoysforums.ca/viewtopic.php?t=738

So my current set up is stock springs, 5.29 gears, 2" body lift and 3" wider axles. It's my favorite.

If I get Jen a truck, it will be set up with SOA on stock springs and 35" tires. I will not waste my time with lifted springs again.
 
The Dude said:
I will not waste my time with lifted springs again.
Click to expand...

One day I will have to join the dark side with a truck and see :D

gb
 
I can drive my HJ-60 SO 9" overal lift ( no body ) 37" MTR Shackle Reversal, OME suspension, 4.55 R&P marks low gear set with one finger in my steering wheel with no problems .

2.26 R and 2.34 Left .. caster measurements .. no problems on hiway at 120km/h cruise speed.
 
89s rule said:
You can do the cut and turn yourself or
find someone who knows how to do it. Perches - $50
Track Bar again do it yourself. Tubing? - $75-$100
If your springs are in good shape I dont think you need add a leafs - $0
SR (Really need it? Possibly, also heard of people making their own. - $0-$250
New Shackles - $100 or less if you do not mind used. - $100
Shocks - No way you spend $500 on shocks
unless you got $ to burn. Use Doetsch Tech 8000 prerunner
$30 something ea. @ summit. Shocks- $150-$200
No clue on cost of Driveshafts??
High steer http://www.4x4labs.com/products/steeringarms.html - $550
Extended brake lines Maybe - $50
get the NAPA extensions as long as your other lines are in good shape.

Thats $975 total if you do most of the work and order some of the parts. + the cost fo the driveshafts. (Which I have heard you need.) All of these prices are US sorry I dont know the conversion.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

I think what I was trying to illustrate was the high end costs if you went all out..best of everything...including having someone do all your fab work. If you don't know how, and you don't own a welder, who the hell will make a track bar for $75? I think I also pointed out how inexpensively you could do it and used the example of someone who spent less than $500. Thx for picking apart my post though:flipoff2::)
 
Brett, i agree, if you are paying a licensed shop to do the work the labour rate will outweigh the cost of the parts.
cheers
 
why would you want spring over, I know it will lift your truck up, and is cheap, but the leafs seem to almost act like ski''s wiith momentum, getting you though mud and snow, when they are on top of the axle, it is weaker and doesn't give the same ski effect.

JMO
 
Eric Winkworth said:
why would you want spring over, I know it will lift your truck up, and is cheap, but the leafs seem to almost act like ski''s wiith momentum, getting you though mud and snow, when they are on top of the axle, it is weaker and doesn't give the same ski effect.

JMO
Click to expand...

big mud, needs big tires, which need big lift.

They are talking 35 and up tires, mostly 37's/ otherwise it can all be done much simpler with arched springs.

IMOP its only for the big mud guys and also guys who want a big truck.

watch Tapages videos to see the big stuff in action. Thats were this is needed.
when you are turning such big tires that in essence you are trying to float on the mud.................I like rocks and gravel hils.
 
Great write up man, seems like you missed almost nothing.

Your truck simply rocks, nice work.

Rob

The Dude said:
I did the SOA on my 61.

I had the boys at aqualu cut and turn the front housing. I tried using a regular axle housing and did not like the u-joint angles. About $400 delivered to your door. Worth it IMOP.

The rear housing can just be rotated cutting off the old spring mounts. New Mopar spring mounts $15

All new U-bolts with 40 series plates $100 (I had the plates)

I went with lukes high steer arms and one ton GM ends with custom tie rod and drag link (a friend bought the taps needed) $330 for the arms, $200 for the ends and $100 for the DOM tubing. You WILL hit the oil pan on a 12H-T. You need to flip the front springs AND offset the spring pin hole on the axle housing by 1"

Brake lines front and rear need to be longer. I used mini truck lines from Napa. $50

Front cable locker will be fine; the rear will have to be longer. I haven't completely fixed this yet. The cable is still sitting on my bench with an extension on it. I used a small hiem joint at one end and solid mounted the other to the OEM cable. I modified the end that goes to the actuators on the floor. You also need to adjust the mounting bracket by using a spacer. The indicator wires must also be longer. princess auto for the parts $50

The parking brake needed to be moved.

You will need new longer shocks. I also relocated my upper shock mounts in the back and used ford towers in the front. I now have 14" of travel fr/Rr. I went with bilstien shocks. $400 for the shocks, $40 for the front towers.

I totally removed my front sway bar and made extensions for the rear. $10

I would also plan on a complete front end rebuild. Seal/wiper/gasket kit with trunion bearings $133. Wheel bearings $120.

Plus fluids and misc nuts and bolts. I am sure I have missed something.

I didn't modify my drive shafts but the front one is on the way out. It will get a long spline shaft and a double cardan joint when it goes.

So it looks like I spent $2000 for a complete SOA with all new steering components and a rebuilt front end.

YIKES a guy should never add this @&@&@&@& up!!!:eek:
Click to expand...
 
in deep mud your Spring being under you axle acutally help you stay on top of it with some momentum, theres a reason toyota put them like that!

Strength is one
and two is it work better off road because you don't have as much axle to get caught up on

I dunno, its just my Opinion, if you need big tire that bad go for it!@1
 
Eric...
sorry but I've gotta chime in here....
first, there is no differance in strength sping over or under.
second if... you are draging you springs in mud you will bog down so fast
you wont know what happened.
springs do not act like "skis" and if you had ever driven a Correctly SOA wagon
you would be next in line to get one.
there... thats my 2 cents.... fwiw
Dave
 
Eric Winkworth said:
why would you want spring over, I know it will lift your truck up, and is cheap, but the leafs seem to almost act like ski''s wiith momentum, getting you though mud and snow, when they are on top of the axle, it is weaker and doesn't give the same ski effect.

JMO
Click to expand...


Eric Winkworth said:
in deep mud your Spring being under you axle acutally help you stay on top of it with some momentum, theres a reason toyota put them like that!

Strength is one
and two is it work better off road because you don't have as much axle to get caught up on

I dunno, its just my Opinion, if you need big tire that bad go for it!@1
Click to expand...

I strongly disagree with this. The springs are the first thing to "grab" and suck you under. Then it's those pesky U-bolt plates that are hanging down with four big bolts just waiting to get hung up in the mud. I know first hand that a SOA is much better then a lifted spring for ground clearance with less things to get get cuaght up on. Not over all ground clearance as your dif does not move, but total available ground clearance.

Second, I think that it is axle wrap that you are thinking as aposed to strength. This is solved with a anti-wrap bar. I haven't isntalled one yet, but it is def needed.

I'll post up a picture of my front end. It is very clean with the tie rod behind the axle and the u-bolts facing up. A lot less to get caught up on mud and snow.

If Wayne would ever build a SOA, he would tell you the same thing... :D

Radd Cruisers said:
Great write up man, seems like you missed almost nothing.

Your truck simply rocks, nice work.

Rob
Click to expand...


Thanks Rob, that's a huge compliment. :)
 
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