FJ80 Overheating (1 Viewer)

thermostat
fan belts
radiator hoses
fan clutch
water pump
radiator


Last three are the $$$ parts. After 13 years and 160k miles I wouldn't feel bad about replacing everything listed above. Presumably the belts aren't orginal, everything else could be.

If you keep driving it as is you will be replacing the head gasket. Check coolant for any oil floating on top. Check engine oil on dipstick for any milky grunge. I haven't change the water pump on an '80 so can't say if it can be done without pulling the radiator. I have pulled the radiator and can say doing that is not difficult.

Pat,

How long have you had this vehicle?

DougM

Hi DougM,

I've owned the car for 6 years; one owner prior to me. Well maintained by Toyota, but the prices are getting high and I can do most of what needs to be done and want to learn about the stuff I can't do (yet). I appreciated the advice and suggestions and will give them a try. I think the idea of the FSM is something I will pursue.

Having a little trouble getting the radiator out (sorry, I was that far into it when I posted this). Are there any bolts on the bottom of the radiator or just the 4 bolts on the top? Seems stuck.

Also do I need to remove the a/c condenser? Seems a little tricky and it sounds like I have to bring it to a tech to get it discharged before I remove anything (and I would rather not do that if I don't have to remove it).

Where do I get a Factory Service Manual, other than Toyota, or is that the only option. Sorry to be a pain, but this is new to me. Thanks in advance for your help,

Pat...

sounds like a sticky or broken thermostat to me....pops open and WHOOOSH, otherwise no flow...

pressure test for leaks, if none, thermostat, fan clutch, water pump all suspect.

I put my money on the thermostat.

or we could do a contest and place bets on how long your engine will last if you keep on overheating into the red zone. Could be entertaining. Could have a betting pool!

(yes, that bad!)

E

e9999 said:

or we could do a contest and place bets on how long your engine will last if you keep on overheating into the red zone. Could be entertaining. Could have a betting pool!

(yes, that bad!)

E

Click to expand...

I'm surprised it held up with going into the RED zone multiple times.

Here goes my after market gauge rant....at 220 degrees my oem gauge shows a hair above 9 o’clock so the RED zone is above 250 degrees. YIKES

Pat get it figured out before you see RED again...this is not good for your Cruiser

Phil

Having a little trouble getting the radiator out (sorry, I was that far into it when I posted this). Are there any bolts on the bottom of the radiator or just the 4 bolts on the top? Seems stuck.

Click to expand...

You need to remove the long bolts going through the resiliant mounts on the side of the radiator.

Also do I need to remove the a/c condenser? Seems a little tricky and it sounds like I have to bring it to a tech to get it discharged before I remove anything (and I would rather not do that if I don't have to remove it).

Click to expand...

No, but it helps to be able to move it around somewhat to access the rad mount bolts.

Where do I get a Factory Service Manual, other than Toyota, or is that the only option.

Click to expand...

Ebay, Dan, dealer, etc.

Pat,
the second guy who posted on this thread is dan,
get to know him as not only is he a nice guy but he is also the parts manager for a toyota dealership. Here is ballpark what you are looking at:
1. thermostat, ok htis one is easy to do and please use the oem stat, am is crap and oe is not much more money.
2. rad cap, again oe, the pressure should be at 9 lbs if memory serves me correctly.
3. fan clutch. this could be the best $100 you spend on the truck. I replaced mine at 165k and helped quite a bit with cooling issues. one other thing to do while you are in there is just replace all of your belts with oem belts. the am belts are cogged differently than the primary on the oem. it is quieter and you can throw the old ones in the back for spares.
I would be willing to bet this wwill solve your problem if you were to do all three. the water pump might not need to be done but if you have the rad out of the way and the belts off it wouldnt be that much more work. also if you get the water pump get the two little hoses that go in adn out of it and do those while you are there.
this is just my opinion but if youve got it open just do all you can your looking under $500 in parts for everything mentioned and you will be a lot further ahead once you are done.

If you want a second opinion check out the 3FE forums on yahoo groups. really good source of info out there for the 3FE motor.
Dave

Man, you're going about this the hard way. Before pulling the rad I'd check other stuff. Were it me, I'd stop taking it out and put the bolts back in, refill with a new thermostat and then work through some other stuff. On the FZ's I believe the headlamps and a bunch of other crap must come out to get the radiator out. Cut your losses and bolt it back together as I think the odds of a radiator issue are WAY low.

DougM

if you get the radiator all the way out, check the power steering cooler and lines- if it needs replaced, might as well do it now.

id bet on thermostat or fan clutch, my 91 came close to red and replaced the thermostat, so far so good.