What to look for when buying an FJ40? (1 Viewer)

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fyton2v

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What to look for when buying a FJ40?

I've got a UZJ100 and I'm gonna try and convince my wife we need a FJ40. Can anyone help point me in the right direction to find out the things one needs to know before I buy one?

Here's a little more info:
I'd like to keep this thing pretty much stock (at least to begin with). Not looking at doing SERIOUS wheeling.

How much rust is too much?
How many miles on the original engine before I should be worried?
3 speed tranny vs. 4 speed?
Any particular years that are better than others?

Thanks much!
 
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I think it would be safe to say that rust (or lack of it) is more important than everthing else put together; after all, you can't drive around in something that isn't there anymore. The problem is that rust is like an iceburg, you only see the tip. If looking at a cruiser, take a good look underneath at all of the metal, and decide if it's something you can fix yourself or can afford to pay someone to fix properly. Unfortunatly, a normal body shop is not generally set up to deal with rust.

Miles; if it's running good now, it will probly run a little longer (plus it can be rebuilt).

4 speed is preferred.

Some say '78 is about the top year (I don't know)

Anyway, I would read through past posts to learn lots from some knowledgable owners.

All just my opinion.
 
Great decision. Don't hurry into it, because what you buy your going to want to keep and work on for years to come. Before you shop for price you should decide what you want and what you are going to do with it.

If you want to drive on the highway the 4 speed would be better and 33 inch or larger tires.

I would be more concerned about engine compression than miles. Miles don't tell you if an engine was rebuilt and what kind of shape its in.

The 2F engine is one of the toughest engines ever made. The vehicles them selves are failrly simple without computers. You also can still buy parts for them new. Great communities of support out there to help with issues.

below is my personal opinion

1) What year. Most prefer post 76 due to front discs and 2F. 80+ (except for pimps) are suppose to rust easier. 78 seems to be the coveted year, but I personnaly would grab a 79-83 if the price was right and I was looking. Landpimp says his 82 is great on the road. Go to the FAQ at the following link:

http://www.birfield.com/tlcfaq/

2) What are you going to do with it? If you are going to wheel in it at all, then you don't want a perfectly restored rig or you will worry about the paint. Are you going to wheel or do the more agressive rock climing? Rock climbing requires SOA and Power Steering. I am more into just trails and have a lift and no power steering. Sounds like you don't need an SOA by the type of wheeling you want to do.


Once you figure this out and decide what year and features you want then you need to list the priorities of what shape your new rig needs to be in. For me the Engine has to be in good shape. It can cost $2-$3K for a full rebuild or around $1K just to nurse a tired engine.

My second priority was if the body could be repaired. This means dremel out the rust, arc weld steel in the whole and then bondo only to smooth the surface. Then you can paint your rig your self fairly in expensively, but it will be a 5ft paint job. Looks good from 5ft away.

The next items, are leaks around tranny, transfer case, axles and wheels.

Thats my opinion, let us know what you want to do. Expect to put another $1 tp $2K into your cruiser after you get it. Take your time and make sure your happy with what you pick.

40's are a kick. I love mine.

Ken
 
What's SOA?

Good info thanks...

I would be going over some bumpy trails and easy to medium difficultly hill climbs. Pretty much tooling around some of the easier areas in the Sierra Nevadas. The 76 - 78 seems like the ticket because of the 4 speed tranny and disc brakes. I do not see myself making a rock hopper. Since I want it to be a nice looking truck I'd like to avoid rust. Sounds like it would be a pain to fix. I'll start doing some research and frequenting this board.

Thanks again.
 
The stock suspension (Springs) are attached to the bottom of the axle. You can add a lift by swapping springs and/or shacles that provide lif to the vehicle, this is called an SUA (Spring Under Axle).

In an SOA(Spring Over Axle), the axle knukles need to be turned and the springs are installed to the TOP of the axle. This by itself provides 6 inches of lift.

Do a search, a lot of people will say how wonderful they are. I have a 4 inch Skyjacker SUA lift and am very happy with it.

Ken
 

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