Where's the birf...faq?

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scottm

scottm

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The links to birf info were helpful. I know guys have asked for pics, do we have an ih8mud faq I can contribute to?

I didn't read an easy way to get the inner seal out, but this worked for me: With a drift distort the seal on one edge, carefully. Pry it out on the opposite edge easily.

That tapered drift also saved me from losing the snap ring, I stuck it in the threaded hole on the axle end so the snap ring couldn't fly across the garage.
Distort the seal.webp
Pull the seal.webp
 
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Great drift for the knuckle races. It's the smallest of three in a $15 set I picked up at Sears. I can't make them at the machine shop that cheap, even without the knurling and chamfering. It fits the cutouts for this purpose perfectly.
Drift.webp
 
I drove in the wheel bearing races and seals with big sockets. Here's the 2-1/8" that fits the wheel nut. I greased the hub before driving in the race, then degreased with brake cleaner to get out any shavings generated. I push a lot of bushings and bearings at work, tight fits like that often generate shavings. I also chipped a little chrome off my sockets. Thats what I use my 3/4" and 1" drive sockets for the most, pressing in big stuff.
Bearing race driver.webp
 
You cheated...IIRC, the T-type seal puller ($10 at Autozone) was the recommended method for getting the axle and wheel bearing seals out.

Any reason why you seperated the hub and disc assembly?

:cheers:
Rookie2
 
The best bearing packer ever, a ziplock sandwich bag. Freezer bags are a little stiff.
Bearing packer.webp
 
What the heck's in the tub to the left of your baggie? A box of eels??

DougM
 
Stuff that oozed from the birf. My cat brought me a dead mouse during the operation, it was more pleasant. I epoxied the floor in preparation, it was nice not having to clean all that goo off cement.

Thanks for the phone help bro!
 
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A T-type seal puller would have made your life much easier with that axle seal for $10 ;) . Also, IMO if you separate the hub/disk assy you need to have them turned together to make sure they are centered.

Good idea w/ the socket (hope it was craftsman!) - I used the "upside down" old race and a drift once it was too far down.

Nice to be done eh?

:cheers:

Tucker
 
tucker74 said:
Also, IMO if you separate the hub/disk assy you need to have them turned together to make sure they are centered.
Click to expand...

FSM shows marking the hub & disk for reassembly. New disk on one side, seems to be balanced still.

tucker74 said:
Nice to be done eh?
Click to expand...

Err, rears to go, then start on my truck. I'll pick away at it over the summer.
 
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Did the same job last week with new rotors, used the same brass drift set from Sears. Messy job, but not hard. I used the T-type seal puller with some success. Good job with the pics!
 
I've seen a few seal pullers, I'm not sure what the T-type puller is. From my research it sounded like everyone had trouble with that seal, so I assumed the pullers weren't working out. I got a grip on it with the prybar, but it wouldn't budge 'till I deformed the seal. Anyway, I wouldn't post solutions that involved specialty tools. I'll probably haul an arbor press home next time, not a helpful hint for most guys.

I'm still wondering what pics are still needed for a faq, and where to submit them.
 
Scott,
As I recall, we need some pics of the tools. You have one of the hub socket (the fancy Sears one.) I am almost positive we *had* a pic of the T-type seal puller but it wasn't with the FAQ. A pic of the Harbor Freight spring scale would be nice to have along with the 3 brass drifts lined up with something to give the tools scale.

That's all I can think of now but review Jim's post in the Tech section for a complete list of tools.

-B-
 
there is a Harbor freight scale shown on their site, the skinny one is 55lbs and $4 (they have a bigger one around that's 50 lbs). 55 lbs may be too much to do preloads (about 10) perhaps, though ?
E

added: going by memory it looks very similar to Marlin Crawler's so maybe would work OK anyway?
 
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In my Fj80, the pinion seal is on the back of the third member and theres a small metal ring that goes around where the seal is. Should I just grab a crow bar and pry it out or what?
 
nyk438 said:
In my Fj80, the pinion seal is on the back of the third member and theres a small metal ring that goes around where the seal is. Should I just grab a crow bar and pry it out or what?
Click to expand...

My philosophy was, if I have a new one, go ahead and destroy the old one getting it out. My only other oil seal was on the back of the hub you see on the floor as I drive in a new race. Posts and links I read indicated getting under it with a screwdriver or two and working around loosening it. That seemed to work well.
 
Ah, I'll be making a trip to the dealer to get that part, then out comes my friend mr. crow bar......
 
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