93 landcruiser trans problems?

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Joined
Jun 12, 2007
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I have a 1993 landcruiser . when I put it into gear and the transfercase into the H position it seems to slip and also when I put it into park the vehical rolls I have overhauled the trans and put on two transfercases . when I put the transfercase into the l POSITION it does perfict engages fine and goes into park and will not roll . I have noticed in the transfer case ther is a center differintial coupling . The coupling seem to couple the pinion or carrier to the output shaft . Could this be my problem when I put it into a vise you can turn the center with some effort but it will turn:frown:
 
If you listen to what we are saying, we can help.

Start the truck, put the truck in low and make sure the ABS and center diff lock lights are on. Shut truck off. Remove the "Diff" fuse. in your interior fuse panel, the "diff" fuse is a 30A fuse on the right on the bottom row of fuses. Put the transfer shifter back in H and try it then. come back and tell us what happens.

Dave
 
thanks i will try this tomorrow i have inspected everything i also have to put back together the rear end before i try the fuse thing
 
93 land cruiser trans problem

thanks I put transfercase in the L position and removed the 30amp fuse . Then put shifter back into the H position and vehical is doing everything right what is my problem ? switch ,relay , module or what ? Thanks again for all your help Andy:confused:
 
thanks I put transfercase in the L position and removed the 30amp fuse . Then put shifter back into the H position and vehical is doing everything right what is my problem ? switch ,relay , module or what ? Thanks again for all your help Andy:confused:

YOU JUST (AND FINALLY) VERIFIED THAT IT'S A FRICKIN' DRIVE FLANGE!!!

(Congratulations. :))
 
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=160662 is the original thread about Andy69's '93 Landcruiser problem. At least at the moment, I wonder if the board has gone whacky and is moving threads around.

Andy, pull both of your front drive flanges. Those are the plates on the end of your front hubs. You will need to remove the dust cap, then the c-clip on the end of the axle you will see with the dust cap removed. Then the 6 nuts and conical washers that hold the plate on. Conical washers are sometimes a challenge to remove, https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=162750&highlight=conical is a thread which explaines several methods to remove them. (If that link doesn't work, search 'conical' in the 80 forum and click on the thread titled 'Rear axle studs'). You will likely find a bunch of metal shavings in the grease, and the axle stub splines and drive flange splines will be worn off. If not, come on back.

-Spike
 
could you explain which drive flange if its in the transfercase this is the third transfercase . could i have been getting bad transfercases? or could it be the center differential coupling is this also called a drive flange?
 
thanks I pulled them about a week ago found out the best way to remove the conical washers is to lossen the nuts and hit the center with a hammer being careful not to hit the nuts and or studs . I did not see anything wrong with the front end ,axles seemed to look ok???
 
See above post #7 for drive flange location.

Never mind.

-Spike
 
OK, for an easier drive flange test, just go remove both dust caps. Get a helper, get in the vehicle, replicate your problem (unlock the center diff by replacing the fuse you removed, make sure the transfer case is in high range, put the vehicle in gear, you should have the original problem you posted about), and have the helper watch the axle stubs. If either one spins faster than the wheel (if the wheel moves at all) then there's your problem.

-Spike
 
Thanks I have had all that apart from the dust cover to the hogshead on both sides and did not see anything sripped out all the splines looked real good . could that still be my problem?????Thanks Andy
 
YOU JUST (AND FINALLY) VERIFIED THAT IT'S A FRICKIN' DRIVE FLANGE!!!

(Congratulations. :))

It could still be something else, but definitely somewhere in the drive train. If any part is not transferring power to the wheel it will act the same way, although most of the possible breaks would render the truck immobile or make horrendous noises. You would think the drive flange slipping would make a bunch of noise, but apparently not. It could be one of the axles snapped nice and clean, or the spider gears or something.

If the truck is in gear, brakes off and not moving, and neither axle stub is moving independantly of the wheel, have the helper look under the truck and see which drive shaft is moving. If the front, then the problem is in the front axle, same for the rear.

DON'T REPLACE ANY MORE TRANSFER CASES.

-Spike
 
OK, for an easier drive flange test...

Even easier (won't point exactly to the drive flange of course, but will isolate the problem to the front end):

Engine off, tranny and (or) T-case in neutral, front wheels on the ground. Crawl under the vehicle and see if you can rotate the front driveshaft.

Curtis
 
I will absolutely crap myself if Andy comes back and says there's only one driveshaft on the truck.

-Spike
 
Even easier:

Engine off, tranny and (or) T-case in neutral, front wheels on the ground. Crawl under the vehicle and see if you can rotate the front driveshaft.

Curtis

That would be easier, but won't tell us anything about the drive flanges. It will tell us if the problem is in the front axle or not. Can't hurt, for sure.

Andy, if you try this method and the front driveshaft doesn't turn, also try turning the rear driveshaft.

And for God's sake (or, more importantly, yours) chock the wheels. :D

-Spike
 
Thanks i will look tomorrow all help has gone home anymore suggestion would be helpful .does the front axles or rather the front end keep the vehical from rolling in park or is it just the rear wheels? my origianal problem is vehical rollaway in park and slow or slipping in the H position but ok in the L position thanks see ya tomorrow tahanks again for all your help





l
 
Thanks I put both the trans. and transfer case in N and scotched both front and rear wheels .I could not turn front or rear drive shafts the vehical just rocked back and forth against the wheel chocks and I used a big pipe wrench Thanks Andy
 
If there's a broken part in either axle, or any part of the driveline after the transfer case, it will act as you describe. Park will not hold, and it won't have much if any power in high range. The reason the truck acts normally in low range is because both axles are mechanically joined by the center differential locker in the transfer case. In high range, the axles are independant of each other, so if there is a problem all your power goes to the broken axle, or more specifically to the broken part in that axle, and is lost. In low range, power is forced to go to both axles, so if either one is broken the other will move the truck. This is accomplished by the CDL, or center differential locker. It is activated when the transfer case is put in low range. If you pull the CDL (locker) fuse when it's activated (as you did per MoGas's suggestion) you disable the mechanism that would normally unlock the CDL when the transfer case is shifted into high range. By doing this, you verified that your transfer case is working exactly as it should (as I'm sure the other two you replaced were as well) and that you have a problem somewhere between the transfer case and the wheels. The most likely problem is the drive flanges, which is also the easiest to fix. It is also possible that some other axle part is broken. The easiest part to check is the drive flange, and also the most likely, so start there. You can do the check that CJF described all by yourself, and that might at least tell you which axle has a problem. I say 'might' because you say the truck moves, albeit slowly, in high range, so there is resistance and you may not be able to turn the driveshaft by hand even though something is broken. If you can't turn either driveshaft, you will have to do the test I described in post #14 to verify or eliminate the drive flanges as the problem.


-Spike
 

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