1993 landcruiser

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Joined
Jun 12, 2007
Threads
2
Messages
14
with vehical in shifter position H vehical moves slow like trans slip and when put into park the park pawl does not engage but when put into shifter position l trans engages hard and moves great and when put into park position park pawl engages fine have overhauled trans to start with thinking problem was at the trans no resolution so put in used transfercase still have same problem HELP!!!!!!!!!:frown:
 
It's a little unclear what you are saying.

What I am getting is that when you put the Tcase into Lo, the truck seems to drive fine. Do you mean it is operating as expected in Lo with the lower gearing?

When you put it into Drive it crawls. Is this the case for 1,2 and D? How does it work in Reverse?

Are you also saying when you move the shifter to the P position the Transmission does not go into park?

Any other details would be helpful, like have you checkied your fluids?
 
I don't know about the parking pawl but the other problem sounds lika a shift solenoid.
 
vehical crawls when in all gaer positions 1,2,d and reverse and does not go into park when in p position but does ok when in Shifter position L on transfercase selecter which has L & H on it
 
You more than likely have a problem in your front axle, although I suppose it's possible for it to be the rear axle.

When you put your vehicle in low range, it engages a differential lock in the transfer case- the electric motor you referenced in your thread in the chat section. You probably have a stripped drive flange on the front axle, or some other broken part in one of the axles. The drive flange is the most likely culprit. If any part of the drive line is broken, the vehicle will behave as you describe. There are several threads detailing the process of determining whether you have a stripped drive flange, search 'stripped drive flange'.

-Spike
 
put vehical on lift again and put shifter into L position and turned rear driveshaft and park pawl in trans. went into park position. placed trans. shifter back into N to free up park pawl then shifted transfercase into H position. put back on lift and turned both front and rear drive shafts shouldn't that eliminate the front and raer differentials? by doing this the trans. will not go into park position park pawl will not engage did i get a bad used transfercase i tore down the old transfercase and found the center differntial "a round hub thats splined in the center and splined on the outside " to turn i think it couples to the output shaft of the transfercase . I think it works a lot like an engine to out drive on a boat engine that has rubber inside .
 
put vehical on lift again and put shifter into L position and turned rear driveshaft and park pawl in trans. went into park position. placed trans. shifter back into N to free up park pawl then shifted transfercase into H position. put back on lift and turned both front and rear drive shafts shouldn't that eliminate the front and raer differentials? by doing this the trans. will not go into park position park pawl will not engage did i get a bad used transfercase i tore down the old transfercase and found the center differntial "a round hub thats splined in the center and splined on the outside " to turn i think it couples to the output shaft of the transfercase . I think it works a lot like an engine to out drive on a boat engine that has rubber inside .
 
Personally, I doubt you had a problem with your old transfer case or your transmission. You need to understand that your truck has 3 differentials, one in each axle and one in the transfer case. In addition, you have a viscuous coupler, which might be "a round hub thats splined in the center and splined on the outside " but I'm not sure, as you are difficult to understand. You also have an electric locker in the transfer case differential, which automatically engages when the transfer case is shifted into low range. That's key here, as it indicates that your problem is occuring after the t-case differential, although there is a minute possibility that the problem is in the differential itself. I've never seen or heard of that, and you've already swapped out the t-case, so I think you can rule that out.

From what I can understand from your posts, it sounds as if there is something broken in one of your axles- could be a differential, could be an axle shaft, could be a birfield, could be a front hub drive flange. The drive flange is the more common point of failure. In high range, power from the transmission is distributed through the t-case diff and viscuous coupler. The viscuous coupler attempts to ensure that you have some power going to both front and rear axles, but will allow slippage. It will slip less as it heats up. This probably explains why your truck moves at all in high range. If something in one of your axles is broken, all the power from the t-case will be lost at that point. The parking pall will not stop the truck because the broken part is allowing the drive train to spin independant of the transmission. In low range, the t-case differential locker forces equal power to both axles, which explains why your truck shifts normally, and more importantly why the parking pall stops the truck. I don't have the capacity to explain this better, but this forum has many threads which further describe what's going on, as well as some that detail how to determine if your front drive flanges are stripped. I would highly recommend you browse through the FAQ section at the top of the thread list, as well as use the search function. If you don't understand how your truck's drive train works, you are at a severe disadvantage trying to diagnose problems. Again, I seriously doubt you had a problem with your transmission or t-case in the first place, but it sounds as if you've spent a lot of time and money trying to 'fix' them.

It's also entirely possible that I have no idea what's wrong with your truck because I don't understand what you're describing. If you want more help from the folks here, I would suggest you learn how to use capitalization and punctuation to make your posts readable. I'm getting a headache trying to understand what you are writing, and I'm one of the more patient people here. You will get a lot more help from the many knowledgeable members if they can understand what you are saying without having to work at it. It's hard enough to diagnose a problem over the internet without having to decipher the meaning of the posts. Perhaps you could have a friend try to describe what the problem is if you are unable.

You might also give us some history- how long you've had the truck, did you buy it in this condition or did it get this way while you were driving it, your location, any modifications, repairs, maintenance, etc.

-Spike
 

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