1978: Rebuilt 2f Carb & Reconditioned Manifold

Mark of http://www.marksoffroad.net rebuilt my carb. Pretty nice, eh?

Anyone think the choke cable mount and that other arm in the top right of the second pic are bent? Are they supposed to be bent down like they are, or straight? They may have been like this when I sent it. Not much of an issue in any case.

I had my thermal reactor manifold sandblasted and I painted it with Aussie VHT Nu-cast manifold paint. While I had the can out I painted my air injector rail. The nipples for the air rail are new from Cruiser Dan.

You can't see the new carb linkage parts behind there I got from SOR.

I'll figure it out, but what are the two wires going to the carb? One sensor and one fuel cutoff/idle circuit?

What do I hook to the threaded fuel lines? I mean can I get something at Napa so I can connect a rubber fuel line to the hard line you can just see sticking out from under the air rail, just in front of the 2nd cylinder connection? I guess I'll just run a rubber line for now following the hard line to the fuel return that's blocked off down by the frame on the passenger side of the block.

I'd sure like to have all the original hard lines, but I've been looking for them for more than six months without much luck. I suppose I could buy a bender and make up a new set. They're metric?

I got the emissions manual from SOR when I got the linkage parts. Good stuff.

These, about a mile of vaccuum hose, a tune up and another couple hundred bucks in VCV thingees and I'm off to the smog man.

Looks pretty good.

Making new lines is not very hard to do. I don't think you will find a good transition part to mate a rubber hose up to the stock carb. Metal ines are better anyways.

I made new lines for my carb in an afternoon. I believe the metal lines should be 5/16" in size, go to NAPA and get the fuel /brake lines in that size. Roughly figure out the lentgh by bending a tape measure along the path of the lines. Buy a little extra length on each line to account for the bends.

To bend them a cheap bender will work, a medium cheap one will do a bit better. The stock lines are really more complicated than they need to be, just bolt up everything where it goes, like your air cleaner, the hoses to the smog rail, the alternator on the passenger side and so forth and see where the clear routes are. Don't run them over the valve cover, they run in front of it so you can take the cover off to adjust the valves without taking the lines off.

To mate it to your carb and fuel pump you will need a setup just like the fuel pump end of the line that you have now. I'm assuming you still have a remanent of a stock line on the mechanical pump. The nuts I got from Specter, but Cruiser Dan can surely get them as well. I think they are one size fits all.

To reproduce the brass bump under the nut, get some compression fitting washers, I think is the proper term. My NAPA has them in a display by the brake lines, but I usually get them at the ACE Hardware store in their plumbing isles. They should come in a 5/16" size.

Leave about an inch or inch and a half of striaght pipe on the ends, place your nut on first, then the compression washer. The first time you tighten the nut, will set where the washer seats. Push the straight part of the line into the carb fittings and the fuel pump as far as you can, then slide the washer up to the beveled area of the fitting and then start the nut. Keep the line in there good as you tighten the nut down fairly tight. The line may try to back out is the catch. Having a little stuck in there is a good thing.

You will need a nut for the two lines at the carb and on the pump. The return line can just be straight fuel line sticking out for a few inches near the distributor and a rubber line does tie that together. You can probably reuse the nut on your pump, just cut the line off to get it off, or carefully file the old brass washer off to slide it off.

Good luck, the fuel line is cheap, if you mess up, just try again, you may make one that fits pretty good, and then make another that fits a little better once you figure out all the bends you need to make. Good luck.

Ed, your pic of the carb looks better than the ones I took.

The accelerator pump arm is bent. It was not bent when I sent it out. It needs to run straight from front to back, 90 degrees to the pivot bolt. You should be able to straighten it by hand.

The choke cable bracket came from the factory the way you see it. I can post pictures of a few dozen others that look just like it.

You are not the only one that has asked about the fuel return line. At some point, I will pay to have a small batch reproduced. Until then MoCoNative's step by step instructions will serve you well. Especially the part about choosing your own routing. Factory wove them under the air rail and alongside the valve cover on the driver's side.

If I were you, making one for yourself, I'd follow MoCo's advise about running a 'cleaner' line outside the air rail to the front of the engine, then across the front of the valve cover, making sure you clear all your other engine ancillaries.

BTW, i think putting VHT on a manifold with a thermal reactor is

;p

Best

Mark A.

p.s. Linky no worky. I'm a dot net not a dot com.

65swb45 said:

Ed, your pic of the carb looks better than the ones I took.

Click to expand...

Wait until you see my new camera! 10mpix Canon G7 with a 440ex strobe.

65swb45 said:

BTW, i think putting VHT on a manifold with a thermal reactor is ;p

Click to expand...

I guess we'll see. You probably don't run dot5 brake fluid (yet) either.

65swb45 said:

p.s. Linky no worky. I'm a dot net not a dot com.

Click to expand...

Oops. Fixed.

Couple more pics

Here is my first set of hard lines that I made.

Looks good Ed. Front view looks 'spot on' factory. Side may be a little off.

Have you tried test fitting the air cleaner to see if the heat riser will interfere?

Best

Mark A.

65swb45 said:

Looks good Ed. Front view looks 'spot on' factory.

Mark A.

Click to expand...

agreed...that looks really clean. nice job.


malphrus

Those are great, come and remake mine, they look terrible compared to yours.

And you were apprehensive, well done. Order some nuts and get the compression washers and you are there.