Adding AUX lights using the factory fog light wires (1 Viewer)

This is just a shorter version of an earlier, MUCH longer thread.. with simplified instructions for installing lights on the front of your 100 with an ARB, TJM, or any other bumper if you have removed the factory Foglamps or otherwise made them inoperable.

I finally found a set of lights to use that would give the "look" that I was going after with my 100..

Then I remembered that when I installed my ARB bull-bar, I had unplugged the factory Fogs, leaving the wiring, relay, and most importantly, the switch on my headlight stalk !!, But the fogs only worked on LOW beam..not HIGH !!

Well, after a bit of thought and asking some opinions (including IH8MUD readers)..I decided to try installing these BadBoys, using the factory wiring

I mounted the lights on the ARB bumper, keeping the nuts a bit loose for hooking up the wires and for the final aiming .. real simple, and they looked great !

And here`s the rest of the install...

First I located the factory plugs behind the bumper that I had rendered "useless" after the ARB bar installation

Instead of cutting off the plugs( I hate cutting off factory connectors !) I decided to use ScotchLocks to attach a pair of 18ga wires (which was about the same as the factory wiring) to run to the new lights..I only needed about 2 feet each of red and black wire per lamp... I cut back about 2 inches of the plastic protector around the 100`s wires (right behind the plug) so I could tap in with the Scotchlocks..and I was ready to go !

The positive (+) leads on the 100`s harness were Red/black..the negative (-) leads were White/Black.. Then I Scotchlocked the new wires to the originals .

I then ran the new wires up to each lamp, and did a quick check to make sure that they lit up when I turned on the Fog-light switch on the headlight stalk (with the low beams on)
..PERFECT !!

I slipped the NEW wires into some corrugated harness protector, tightly wrapped both the Scotchlocks and (original) wires with electrical tape and zip tied everything out of harms way..

And I was done !! (well for the most part !!)

I loved the lights. !..They looked awesome and were VERY, VERY bright...even with the 55W bulbs that were included !! (did I mention that the light even came with a COMPLETE wiring harness, relay and switch..ALL of which I didnt have to install !!? ) ...But one problemo...

They only lit when the low beams were on..they shut off when the highs were engaged due to the original factory design of the fog-lamps..

Well here`s what I did to get around this little "problem"....

I removed both halves` of the "clamshell" surrounding the steering column..

One gold phillips scew (aimed at an angle towards the driver underneath the steering wheel)..and then I turned the wheel left and right to reveal two more black phillips screws ( also facing the driver)..Then I "pulled" apart at the halves, separating them... NOTE: It might be easier to do this by first removing the dash panel (below the guages and behind the column)

Then I located the connector that plugs into Comb-switch, it is referred to as " C-16" in the Factory Toyota EWD, and is the 17 pin white plug on the left side of the steering wheel facing UP..

I then REMOVED pin #17 from the harness connector with a very small flat head screwdriver by carefully prying up on the pin retainer...wire/pin #17 is a Red/light Blue wire and is in the VERY BOTTOM RIGHT of the connector as you are looking AT THE CONNECTION SIDE AND PINS, WITH THE RELEASE TAB ON TOP ... You will also notice that this Red/lightBlue wire just simply "loops" right back into the connector as pin #10

Then I simply cut off the pin on the end of the wire, and ran it to a good ground.

BTW..The wire is JUST long enough (after you cut the pin off) to crimp on a small eyelet and attach it to the metal tab that hangs down from the column that the GOLD phillips screw (you removed earlier) screws into..

Now my new Hella lights work just like I wanted them to..With the factory wiring, the factory relay AND with
the factory switch... on both low AND high beams !!

HOW FRIGGIN` EASY WAS THAT ?!

EDIT...

After input from other readers...May I make a few suggestions while doing this mod..

When making the connections between wires, try to avoid the Scotchlocks..It seems some peeps have had issues with the long-tem durability (solder or crimp the wires together with a high-quality connector)

And DO NOT run lights that have a considerable draw (65W+) or "high power" lamps..the factory wiring/relay wont hold up to the higher pawer requirements !!

Good stuff, however I personally recommend not using "scotchloks". I have seen (and repaired) many electrical installations which have come unstuck using "scotchloks". If you want to do a job properly, any electrical job that is, try to refrain from using scotchloks, they really are a nightmare when they start to fail and you have intermittent connections etc. Many people use them on trailer towing sockets which end up causing grief. A better way is to cut the wire and rejoin it and the new extre wire with a screw type connector or by using a crimp connector, preferably one that does not have a "split" in the inner tube. (These are harder to find and more expensive but don't let go down the track like the split ones). The advantage of the screw type is of course you can add or remowe wires at will.

Two comments, I am with 100TD on the schitlocks. Never, ever, ever use those. They are the devil.

2nd, instead of using the circuit to run the lights directly, use that to trigger a relay that feeds the lights from the battery. The fuse is small and if you add a hi wattage light you are going to blow the fuse or burn the wiring.

100 TD said:

Good stuff, however I personally recommend not using "scotchloks". I have seen (and repaired) many electrical installations which have come unstuck using "scotchloks". If you want to do a job properly, any electrical job that is, try to refrain from using scotchloks, they really are a nightmare when they start to fail and you have intermittent connections etc. Many people use them on trailer towing sockets which end up causing grief. A better way is to cut the wire and rejoin it and the new extre wire with a screw type connector or by using a crimp connector, preferably one that does not have a "split" in the inner tube. (These are harder to find and more expensive but don't let go down the track like the split ones). The advantage of the screw type is of course you can add or remowe wires at will.

Click to expand...

Great advice 100TD...

I have used Scotchlocks for years on many of my vehicles without a single problem, but I also live in area where rain, snow and moisture in general, are
for the most part non-existent.. That may have a bit to do with my luck with these types of connectors, I dont know...(?)..I have noticed however, that unless the Scotchlock is crimped/locked and wrapped just perfectly..it WILL come back to haunt you later !!

I DO know, as you mentioned, that there are MUCH better ways of attaching or connecting/joining wires than Scotchlocks ...I am just lazy, so I tend to use the hardware included with the electrical item or I break out the lifetime supply of Scotchlocks that I have in the garage.

Thats why we are all here...To put forth suggestions to make everything work as well as possible, especially during the INITIAL installation of an item !!

Thanks for the input !!!

I should have mentioned another way, that is to strip back a bit of insulation and wrap and solder the wires together and then reinsulate. I am also with Christo on his comments, his point about using a seperate relay and fused battery feed, controlled from the existing circuit is the go. That way you don't get any voltage drop to your lights and you don't cook the original wiring which is miniscule in size. For others contemplating this, Slee offroad probably sell harnesses (i haven't looked) for this purpose, or if not, would sell you the components I expect, or put you on to someone who does.

sleeoffroad said:

instead of using the circuit to run the lights directly, use that to trigger a relay that feeds the lights from the battery. The fuse is small and if you add a hi wattage light you are going to blow the fuse or burn the wiring.

Click to expand...

I also agree with this Christo..The main reason I decided to use the factory wiring/relay/switch (etc) was because the lights I installed are only 55W..they are not a considerably high wattage for the OE wiring.

I asked several techs before I even started the project, and they all agreed that as long as I used the 55 Watters, I would be ok.

I also purchased 100w bulbs for these lights, but I wouldnt even consider using them unless I ran ALL NEW wiring, a heavy duty relay, and a stouter switch.

I can only imagine what those 100w bulbs would do to my current setup

I agree with Christo...............why? because everyone else did and I like to kiss ass

but my aftermarket fogs have been run like this for 1-2 years, using the OEM wiring, with 55 watt bulbs. Yeah yeah yeah..............someday I will do it right with a relay trigered by the switch........but thats someday

As it is only the fogs, then it doesn't matter if it fails particularly, no big loss, the point I'm trying to make is to try to do jobs right the first time, instead of going back and fixing 5 times at later dates!! (We all suffer from this syndrome at some time or other I think!) Also if you are working on a critical circuit such as your headlights, then it is more important, as it is not a lot of fun losing your lights while you are driving at high speed when it is pitch black, can be extremely dangerous for you and others..

I suppose the main problem I have found with Scotchloks would be that there are many different ones for different jobs and there are different ones for different wire sizes, some actually have 2 different size wire channels in the same connector for tapping from a slightly bigger wire to a slighty smaller wire. This different selction causes problems, as a lot of the time the wrong size connector is used on the wrong size wire, or the wires are put in the wrong side of the connector.
This causes joints that are not ideal and poor contact which creates intermittant connection or high resistance and heat and ultimately failure.

Most of the faults I have seen would have been caused by the causes above and generally associated with currents above 5 amps, but another problem is when a small scotchlok is used on a large wire, and the IDC(Insulation displacement connector) blade displaces more than insulation and actually cuts into the wire and causes problems in the initial circuit as well.

The hard thing to judge is what is the actual size of the conductors in the wires you are about to fit the connector to. The ones on the vehicle range in size but so does the amount of insulation covering them, and different manufactures make different size wire with the same size covering(insulation).
If you can stay away from using them, do so, if you have or want to use them, try to make sure the correct connector is used for the correct size wire, and be careful of the ones that take 2 different size wires, and try not to use them in higher current applications. My .02

Landpimp said:

I agree with Christo...............why? because everyone else did and I like to kiss ass

but my aftermarket fogs have been run like this for 1-2 years, using the OEM wiring, with 55 watt bulbs. Yeah yeah yeah..............someday I will do it right with a relay trigered by the switch........but thats someday

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OMG !

Who hijacked Pimps username ?.. We ALL know he`s not an a$$ kisser !

Yeah, I think I`ll be fine using the stock wiring with the 55W bulbs for...ummm.. ever (?)...I am sure Toyota built in a bit of a " safety zone" for the Fogs..besides, I was running some higher wattage bulbs (than stock) in the fogs before I removed them for the ARB installation

I am glad to hear that others have not had any problems with this set-up..

I was starting to second guess myself (and my techs) , but now I feel 100% confident about recommending this mod to the masses...

Whats that smell..it smells like burning wires....!!

100 TD said:

As it is only the fogs, then it doesn't matter if it fails particularly, no big loss, the point I'm trying to make is to try to do jobs right the first time, instead of going back and fixing 5 times at later dates!! (We all suffer from this syndrome at some time or other I think!) Also if you are working on a critical circuit such as your headlights, then it is more important, as it is not a lot of fun losing your lights while you are driving at high speed when it is pitch black, can be extremely dangerous for you and others..

I suppose the main problem I have found with Scotchloks would be that there are many different ones for different jobs and there are different ones for different wire sizes, some actually have 2 different size wire channels in the same connector for tapping from a slightly bigger wire to a slighty smaller wire. This different selction causes problems, as a lot of the time the wrong size connector is used on the wrong size wire, or the wires are put in the wrong side of the connector.
This causes joints that are not ideal and poor contact which creates intermittant connection or high resistance and heat and ultimately failure.

Most of the faults I have seen would have been caused by the causes above and generally associated with currents above 5 amps, but another problem is when a small scotchlok is used on a large wire, and the IDC(Insulation displacement connector) blade displaces more than insulation and actually cuts into the wire and causes problems in the initial circuit as well.

The hard thing to judge is what is the actual size of the conductors in the wires you are about to fit the connector to. The ones on the vehicle range in size but so does the amount of insulation covering them, and different manufactures make different size wire with the same size covering(insulation).
If you can stay away from using them, do so, if you have or want to use them, try to make sure the correct connector is used for the correct size wire, and be careful of the ones that take 2 different size wires, and try not to use them in higher current applications. My .02

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Damn 100 TD !!

That was so good, it belongs in the "Scotchlok FAQ" section !!

Unless you are SURE of the compatability of the Scotchlok to the wires you are splicing, it is yet another reason to avoid this type of connector.

Thanks for taking the time to bettter explain why they (Scotchloks) are not the best choice !

Lee

I just pulled the 17th pin on the white connector, cut the end, and then grounded it, now my ipf fogs don't turn on at all. Before they were working like normal with low beams and turning off with high beams, any ideas?

mine did same thing so ended up running it off battery and ignorning the stalk switch for factory fogs that are no longer there..... drilled a round hole in panel and the round black rocker switch for the RIGID looks factory almost.

Brock said:

mine did same thing so ended up running it off battery and ignorning the stalk switch for factory fogs that are no longer there..... drilled a round hole in panel and the round black rocker switch for the RIGID looks factory almost.

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Hey Brock,

I edited my comment from my phone, but i guess the edit didn't save.

I fixed it.

So, i guess i don't know how to count pins on a plug, i guess.
I couldn't understand what orientation the OP was referring to when looking at the plug.

I was thinking he was looking at it from the wire side, but it was actually the plug side. So if you are looking at it from the plug side, i pulled the lower left wire out and put it to ground. (Bc if you are looking at it from the wire side, it is the lower right red/blue wire). It was 3am and i had just got done installing shocks and wiring the lights, i was tired, haha.

So i just took the plug out and placed it back into the other pin hole and now the IPF fogs work on low and hi beam.

For the RI LED bar, i just used the the switch that came with it for now, drilled a hole through a blank switch and mounted it next to the power mirror controls.

mine is wired now....hahahaha but if I add a 30inch bar where yours is....then might try to use the stalk control one more time. LOL

Please tell me how....

sleeoffroad said:

Two comments, I am with 100TD on the schitlocks. Never, ever, ever use those. They are the devil.

2nd, instead of using the circuit to run the lights directly, use that to trigger a relay that feeds the lights from the battery. The fuse is small and if you add a hi wattage light you are going to blow the fuse or burn the wiring.

Click to expand...

So I understand that the wiring is ok for a 55W system, but I was considering "doing this the right way". so do you use the power wire from the factory fog light harness and use the presence or absence of 12 volts to trigger a relay that then powers the lights from a dedicated line from the battery?

diagram?

thanks


dustin

If you're replacing the factory lights with something similar, such as the lights inside the ARB sahara bar/03+ deluxe bar, you can just wire them to the factory wiring. As long as the lights dont exceed 55w there's no harm I can see just using the wiring that's there.

drp96a said:

So I understand that the wiring is ok for a 55W system, but I was considering "doing this the right way". so do you use the power wire from the factory fog light harness and use the presence or absence of 12 volts to trigger a relay that then powers the lights from a dedicated line from the battery?

diagram?

thanks


dustin

Click to expand...

Like loud said, under 55w is okay

I did the 35w HID for my AUX fogs connected to the oem wiring. Its basically the same as installing an HID kit in your headlights
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series...-700-hid-conversion-utilizing-oem-wiring.html

I have read through that thread. I dont see any info about putting in a relay. THe way I understand Slee's post 5 years ago was that if you were to run higher wattage, you should put a relay in.. this is what I am wondering about.... if 55w is cool, and that is bright enough, then that is what i will do.

drp96a said:

I have read through that thread. I dont see any info about putting in a relay. THe way I understand Slee's post 5 years ago was that if you were to run higher wattage, you should put a relay in.. this is what I am wondering about.... if 55w is cool, and that is bright enough, then that is what i will do.

Click to expand...

Cant speak for 55w halogen fog lights, but the 55w HID converted Hella lamps were more than what I expected

You are correct. If you want to run additional lights that would push the current rating above what the OEM wiring can handle, you would install an auxiliary relay, which would have the relay coil powered by the OEM light wiring and a new fused 12VDC circuit through the relay's N.O. contacts to power the new lights. Then, you would just be confirming that the relay contacts and power wire sizing is correct for the new lights.

I hope this helps.