Frame Repair and Rust

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Project60

Project60

Joined
Jul 26, 2006
Threads
33
Messages
577
Location
Thornton, CO
I decided to start a new thread on this and take it outside of my build thread because it is such a specific question. Sorry for the length, but searching reveals no direct answers.

I am at the point where I am ready to refinish the frame. I have rust in the rear C-Channels and by the rear spring pins. Some of the body mounts need reworking. The rear cross member needs to replaced or new metal welded in. If you haven't already seen them, look at pictures here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=128847&page=6


My original plans for the frame are as follows:
  • Remove C-Channel from rear of frame, weld in 3/16" sheet to box in the frame. Reattach body mounts and rear shackle hangers.
  • Cut out metal by rear spring pins and replace with new metal (I think 3/16" was factory?). Add a long patch plate over the new metal to add some strength to the area.
  • Sandblast frame.
  • Paint frame with Rust Bullet (or similar) and topcoat for looks.
My concerns are as follows:
  1. I can't sandblast inside the frame rails as there are very few holes in it.
  2. I can't paint inside the frame rails as there are very few holes in it.
  3. I have seen people do sandblasting and paint in the 45 section and they have large round holes on the inside of the frame rails to work with.
  4. With no protection on the inside of the frame, will rust just start over as the water/mud enters the frame and has no way to exit? Since I can't sandblast the inside, the rust will still be there.
Options I see left :
  1. I am not asking what paint/coating works the best, but the only way I can see getting to the inside is hot acid dip/galvanizing. I have seen prices from $250-$500 to do this. Anybody know a place in the Denver area?
  2. What is the real danger of doing nothing to the inside of the frame? I am not looking for a 100 year life span, but I would like to get 15-20 more years.
  3. Can I cut access holes on the inner frame and add additional patch panels around the holes? This would give me access to the inside, but the extra material would help the weakened frame. (A LOT of work!).
  4. Do they make long sand blasting attachments? I could do this and soak the inside with paint (lay it on REAL thick and let it run).
Thanks all!
 
i think that once rust truely gets ahold of a frame, external repairs are only temporary for the reasons you mentioned. dipping would be the best way to remove the rust properly for repairs but I wouldn't glavanize until all the work is done.

have you considered just replacing the frame? In CO I would think you have access to some pretty solid ones. might save you a lot of time and headache....
 
Cut of those brackets, cut out the rot, weld in new steel, weld the brackets back in place, paint as much as you can and spray the inside with used ATF (or something thicker) using a Schultz Gun (it will retard the rust).

Just keep it oiled.

I just did mine with tremendous results.

passenger-side-rot.jpg

passenger-side-cut-open.jpg
Anthony-welding1.jpg

Anthony-welding3.jpg

driver-side-rot.jpg
 
Last edited:
Rig of Mortis said:
Cut of those brackets, cut out the rot, weld in new steel, weld the brackets back in place, paint as much as you can and spray the inside with used ATF (or something thicker) using a Schultz Gun (it will retard the rust).

Just keep it oiled.

I just did mine with tremendous results.
Click to expand...



That was my plan for a fix as well. Might add another plate over the top of it.

Anyone oppose adding holes to the inner frame rails and adding patch plates around them? That way I could paint the inside?

Sorry for the crude picture, but image patch below with hole(s) in it every so often (stolen picture... sorry). It would be on inner frame rail too :doh:.

frame.jpg
 
Decision Made

Alright, I made a decision. I am going to repair the existing frame (not that bad).

Yota-Yard, in Denver, has a few 60 frames that are available. I can come and pull it for $200. Done that once already, I will pass.

I have been doing some reading and I will add a wand to the end of my pressurized sand blaster. That should get the inside of frame fairly clean. Maybe add a few small holes to get the wand inside.

I am not quite sure how to apply the paint yet. Maybe a roller? In the end I will coat it with an oil. this should get me 15+ more years.
 
You should grab the good frame for $200. That's a bargin. It will be much more satisfactory and likely less work then welding up all that rust. I am assuming you have the abilities to swap the frame if you can weld in all that patch work.
 
D'Animal said:
I will sell you my 60 frame for $200.00.

It is already "pulled" and just sitting there in my shop.

location is central California. no rust.
Click to expand...

Want to trade?
 
Cruiserdrew said:
Want to trade?
Click to expand...

LOL!

I will be using your 40 series to mock up the body mounts for the 60 series so it will be easier to install the 45 series extended cab.

If my Chevy K5 Blazer does not sell I'm thinking about using it for base of the 45 series Extended Cab Project. I really don't want to.
 
Anyone got any ideas how to replace the cross member that the rear shocks mount to? Thanks.
 
toyman317 said:
Anyone got any ideas how to replace the cross member that the rear shocks mount to? Thanks.
Click to expand...

Find a pipe that you can drive right through from one side to the other then weld it in place. The bend in the crossmember is not crucial for anything that I noticed when I replaced it on my previous frame.
 
I have a frame related question - my 60 has lived in Colorado it's whole life.

I am hell bent on doing my 60's restoration without pulling the frame.

Will i be able to get to the top of the frame to paint it when i replace my body mount bushings?

I am thinking i can pull one side jack it up and brush rust bullet in there before i put the new bushings on. I can get to the rest of the frame pretty easy.

I am also eventually going to have someone cut out and weld in new channels in the back where they are rusted.
 
Last edited:
Fantom said:
Crap! - if only I was closer I'd buy it.
Click to expand...

Mat, look at my frame when I see you next. If you like it, I can get one for you but you'd need to either have it shipped or come down south to have it installed (the installation is VERY reasonable)!
 
5280Hawk said:
I have a frame related question - my 60 has lived in Colorado it's whole life.

I am hell bent on doing my 60's restoration without pulling the frame.

Will i be able to get to the top of the frame to paint it when i replace my body mount bushings?

I am thinking i can pull one side jack it up and brush rust bullet in there before i put the new bushings on. I can get to the rest of the frame pretty easy.

I am also eventually going to have someone cut out and weld in new channels in the back where they are rusted.
Click to expand...

You will be able to get to some of the frame by doing this. The areas you might have trouble getting into without lifting the whole body are the body mount "dishes" themselves.

Getting rid of the rusted C-Channel isn't too bad. It would be a pita with the body still on.
 
You will be able to get to some of the frame by doing this. The areas you might have trouble getting into without lifting the whole body are the body mount "dishes" themselves.
Click to expand...

Thanks man,

If i'm replacing the rubber bushings at the body mounts, won't the frame dishes be right there?
 
cruiser_guy said:
Mat, look at my frame when I see you next. If you like it, I can get one for you but you'd need to either have it shipped or come down south to have it installed (the installation is VERY reasonable)!
Click to expand...

One day I am coming to visit you for just that reason :) oh and to talk cruisers and see the area ...
 
5280Hawk said:
Thanks man,

If i'm replacing the rubber bushings at the body mounts, won't the frame dishes be right there?
Click to expand...

I looked at my frame last night, and yeah, you can do it. Easiest way is to lift the body, paint, dry and lower body back down. Lot of work and won't be as nice as sandblasting, but should work.
 
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