Stress, the plates are made for 4 degrees of caster IIRC. Have fun. You'll be glad you did it.
97 is "wandering" the road.... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter StressPuppy
- Start date
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CharlieS
GOLD Star
The trunnion bearings are the ones in both the top and bottom of the axle housing the birfields. 2 per side, 4 total.
Yes, I think you either use plates OR caster correction bushings. From what I read here, the plates give more caster correcton than bushings. You use stock toyota bushings with the slee plates.
On the brakes, I'd start with the simple stuff. Flush your brake fluid, and replace the stock pads with 100 series fronts and stock 80 series rears. Mine stops like a dream with this setup.
Braided stainless lines are unnecessary on a street car, if you ask me. On a race car, yes. Street car, no. We don't inpsect our street car lines nearly as frequently as we do with race cars and the stainless lines will trap dirt and abrade away at the inner rubber core. Not a good setup, unless the braid is sheathed.
Charlie
Yes, I think you either use plates OR caster correction bushings. From what I read here, the plates give more caster correcton than bushings. You use stock toyota bushings with the slee plates.
On the brakes, I'd start with the simple stuff. Flush your brake fluid, and replace the stock pads with 100 series fronts and stock 80 series rears. Mine stops like a dream with this setup.
Braided stainless lines are unnecessary on a street car, if you ask me. On a race car, yes. Street car, no. We don't inpsect our street car lines nearly as frequently as we do with race cars and the stainless lines will trap dirt and abrade away at the inner rubber core. Not a good setup, unless the braid is sheathed.
Charlie
- Thread starter
- #23
I'm planning on rebuilding the front axle anyway, so maybe between the trunion bearings and the caster correction it should drive like a dream.
I hear you on the SS lines. I'll be replacing the lines, just probably OEM. Need to check the thickness of the rotors too. If they are ok, i'll probably just get them turned.
I currently have the correction bushings in place, but they are not doing the trick. Guess I'll be on the phone.....
I hear you on the SS lines. I'll be replacing the lines, just probably OEM. Need to check the thickness of the rotors too. If they are ok, i'll probably just get them turned.
I currently have the correction bushings in place, but they are not doing the trick. Guess I'll be on the phone.....
semlin
curmudgeon
don't toss your OME cc bushings yet. It looks to me like you have the OME medium lift (you have listed two sets of front springs so I am guessing). The caster plates may overcorrect for your truck in which case you might want to re-install the OME bushings backwards to compensate.
Does anyone know the geometric measurements of the OME bushings and the slee plates?
Does anyone know the geometric measurements of the OME bushings and the slee plates?
Semlin, i'm not so sure you can "over compensate" the caster. Well, i mean 12 degrees is obviously way too much, but 4 or even 5 is not necessarily a bad thing IMO.
StressPuppy said:
Then are we going to to do this? I'm ready to repay for all your help and garage time you've given me so let's set up a time. I've been looking into the adjusting of the LSPV for mine so we can do your's too. I'll give you a call later.
semlin
curmudgeon
won't it make the steering heavy and also cause driveshaft alignment issues?
- Thread starter
- #28
Heffenoche said:
Yes, looks like I will be doing:
Front axle rebuild
Caster plates and OEM bushings
Brake Caliper rebuild
Brake lines (rubber) replacement
Tie Rod/Relay Link ends replacement
Brake pad replacement (100 series in front)
LSPV adjustment
I think this is more than I did for you!!! Not obligated to help. I'm going to give Dan and Slee a call to order the parts.
Yes, it does make the steering a little heavier, but it's not bad. If your u-joints are ok, it shouldn't cause major driveline vibes. I guess i just assume that as soon as you start messing around with your truck you should expect a little vibration or rattle.
- Thread starter
- #30
Just spoke with Ben at Slee. (Great guy!!) He said that bushings give about 2 degrees of correction and the plates give about 4 degrees. If I put the stock bushings in I would be at about -.5 and 3.5 with the plates. But it could end up more than 4, which he said was not good and he would not recommend it.
He said to check the wheel bearings (jack up the front end, grab the tire top and bottom and see if there is any play) and that the 305s may cause the truck to grab grooves in the road a bit more.
He said I could put stock bushings in and try the plates, just don't weld them, and have it checked. If all is ok, weld and be done. If it is over, put it back. Worst part is the pressing in and out of the bushings.
The tires may have something to do with it, but not as much as I think there is.
Heffenoche - after we did yours, did you get an alignment? What did your caster come out to? I drove yours and don't remember it wandering much at all. Do you think it wanders?
Hey, it's only time and money, right? Just replace it all!!!
Anything else while I am spending money?
He said to check the wheel bearings (jack up the front end, grab the tire top and bottom and see if there is any play) and that the 305s may cause the truck to grab grooves in the road a bit more.
He said I could put stock bushings in and try the plates, just don't weld them, and have it checked. If all is ok, weld and be done. If it is over, put it back. Worst part is the pressing in and out of the bushings.
The tires may have something to do with it, but not as much as I think there is.
Heffenoche - after we did yours, did you get an alignment? What did your caster come out to? I drove yours and don't remember it wandering much at all. Do you think it wanders?
Hey, it's only time and money, right? Just replace it all!!!
Anything else while I am spending money?
If the plates over-correct, lift the front some more. You know you want to anyway...
Stress what is the toe measurement from your readout?
- Thread starter
- #34
Complete settings:
Front Caster
Left: 1.45
Right: 1.59
Front Camber
Left: .28
Right: .14
Front Toe:
Left: .10
Right: .07
Rear Camber:
Left: .10
Right: .13
Rear Toe:
Left: .31
Right: .21
Rear Thrust Angle: .26
So, with what Ben at Slee said, and with what ConcreteJungle states, what should I do? Redo the axle first and see what happens? Or go ahead and do the plates? Or all of the above?
Heffenoche is gonna wish he never knew me!!!
Front Caster
Left: 1.45
Right: 1.59
Front Camber
Left: .28
Right: .14
Front Toe:
Left: .10
Right: .07
Rear Camber:
Left: .10
Right: .13
Rear Toe:
Left: .31
Right: .21
Rear Thrust Angle: .26
So, with what Ben at Slee said, and with what ConcreteJungle states, what should I do? Redo the axle first and see what happens? Or go ahead and do the plates? Or all of the above?
Heffenoche is gonna wish he never knew me!!!
Back to stock bushings, add caster plates and lift it higher if the caster is over-corrected...
Camber looks good, toe looks good.
Camber looks good, toe looks good.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Don't use the plates to fix something that might not be caster related. Your measurements are on the low die but not that bad. Check wheelbearings and trunion bearings first
- Thread starter
- #37
Just ordered all the front axle rebuild stuff from c-dan. Should ship out today and I should see it early next week. I'll redo all of that and then check it. If still a problem, I'll replace the bushings and put on the Slee plates (I've already ordered the stock bushings from Dan).
Sounds like I have a lot of "FUN" ahead of me. I'll keep you posted.
Sounds like I have a lot of "FUN" ahead of me. I'll keep you posted.
sleeoffroad said:
How does one do this?
I know I should just go check the FSM, but any prior hands on experience beats the FSM.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Only sure way tio check the condition is to take apart and inspect:
- Thread starter
- #40
Ok, stuff is on the way to rebuild the front axle. Better safe than sorry. I'll do that first and see where that takes me.
While driving yesterday (hadn't driven in a week or so as my wife had it), I noticed that there is play in the steering that could also be thought of as wandering. Or would seem to make the situation worse. The vehicle starts to wander and you have to turn the steering wheel quite a bit to get it to correct.
Think of this: Watching a TV show with a car scene in it. Driver is going straight, but is moving the wheel side to side so it is not so boring. We all know this is crap and they would wreck. Well, you can do that in my LC! So when it starts to head in a direction I don't want, I start to move the wheel a little bit to correct. Doesn't do anything. Move it some more. And some more. Finally corrects now move it back to the center (bigger move than it should be).
What could be doing this??
(I'm just a basket full of fun, aren't I?)
While driving yesterday (hadn't driven in a week or so as my wife had it), I noticed that there is play in the steering that could also be thought of as wandering. Or would seem to make the situation worse. The vehicle starts to wander and you have to turn the steering wheel quite a bit to get it to correct.
Think of this: Watching a TV show with a car scene in it. Driver is going straight, but is moving the wheel side to side so it is not so boring. We all know this is crap and they would wreck. Well, you can do that in my LC! So when it starts to head in a direction I don't want, I start to move the wheel a little bit to correct. Doesn't do anything. Move it some more. And some more. Finally corrects now move it back to the center (bigger move than it should be).
What could be doing this??
(I'm just a basket full of fun, aren't I?)
