Rear engine seal replacement

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Blue60

Blue60

Joined
Mar 16, 2003
Threads
201
Messages
615
Requesting all ideas/techniques for rear engine seal replacement...I've already ruined one being as careful as I could be and working by myself! I hate to drop the oil pan to do so. it seems if I had someone to center the seal in place as I lightly tapped it in with a plastic hammer or dowel it work just fine, especially with a light coat of white grease.

Any ideas?

The pilot bearing removal/install worked great using PH's idea of carriage bolt and hub socket....pretty slick!

Cheers,

Dave
 
What makes you think that the seal is ruined, especially after you replaced it? If it is slinging oil off the flywheel, then the seal is bad; if it is dripping off the passenger side bolt of the rear main cap, it is the cam plug that is leaking.
 
Well, I was replacing it because I had the engine just sitting there on a bare frame, with the tranny and xfer off, it's a 79, replacing all/most of the seals during my renovation, and it was just too tempting not to replace. I pulled the old engine seal, (though indeed it was not leaking) and "buggered up" the new seal trying to tap it in. BAD DOG!

Anyway...I'm going to order a new one (hell, probably two) and give it another shot. This time with a helper to hold it centered while I get the seal started...Other than that I'm out of ideas!


Thanks

Dave
 
Aaah, you can see that you buggered it. The trick is to have a "driver" to hold it flat when installing it, like a block of wood or steel. A slick way is to drill a few holes in a piece of 3/8 aluminum plate for the flywhel bolts and use the bolts to press it in flat. Some people just use the flywheel, but it is harder to deal with it as a 60 pound seal press.

If it was leaking, check the cam plug while you have everything out. It is partialy obscured by the bellhousing, but you can often see the oil track. There is nothing more furstrating than changing the seal and having t still leak.
 
loosen the rear main bearing cap. Install new seal. retighten rear main bearing cap to spec.
Be carefull as the rear main bearing cap has a different torque spec than the others.
 
Good suggestions, I have the technology to make a hardwood "press" to get the seal driven in as per PH's suggestion.

As for loosening the rear bearing caps, inserting the seal, then retightening to torque specs...

Question #1: Do I also need to loosen the oilpan bolts (seems I would have to do this)

Question #2: Is there any "downside" to loosening the rear bearing cap bolts, i.e.; such as introducing leaks, or disrupting lubrication flow along the bearings by "disturbing" original torques? My question sounds kind of stupid, but I haven't a lot of engine mechanical experience, or background to rule out the obvious sometimes.

Question#3: Can I assume that if I had the SST that the FSM shows to do this job, this would be child's play?

Either way, I appreciate the suggestions and input. I will let you know how it turns out when I get the new seal and reattack!

Cheers, and Keep on Cruising!

Dave
 
follow-on question...

Dealer wants $50 for a new rear main seal...local parts place has a fel-pro seal for $15...what is the difference, and any problems using non-OEM for this particular seal?

Thanks!

Dave
 
The fel-pro is a good quality seal, even though it is orange. I messed one up the first time installing it also. The second time I was more carful and just used a piece of wood and a rubber mallet. I am not so sure though about greasing the outside of it. This seems like a seal that you would not want to ever move.
 
The rear main is outside the oil pan. Do a Search on the mailing list archives. Mark Whately put up a post on the method of install. I found it after I screwed up a main seal.
As for the cost, PM Cruiser Dan (Check the vendor page for his email) for a price.
Dave
 
I paid a bit more than 30 bucks for seals from a local Toyota dealer with %25 TLCA discounts (Stevens Creek Toyota listed as TLCA member bussiness), It took me at least 30 mins to get that seal in and even bought an extra seal just in case.

/td
 
Rear seal update...

Genuine Toyota OEM seal is now installed. No real tricks involved...took my time with a plastic hammer and had a helper holding things centered up during the initial "tapping" phase of the install. Did not white grease the outer circumference, but did apply a little white grease to the inner ring which rides the crankshaft. My theory was it would obviate the lips folding/hanging and dislodging the ring spring on the seal. Thanks for all the suggestions...as with most things in life, I think the initial results ("buggered it") was primarily due to lack of experience. Now, on to the clutch install...

Cheers, and Keep on Cruising!

Dave
 
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