these from man-a-fre
http://www.man-a-fre.com/parts_accessories/Headers3FETunedCeramicoatedTubular.htm
http://www.man-a-fre.com/parts_accessories/Headers3FETunedCeramicoatedTubular.htm
Double manifold gaskets?
- Thread starter RHON
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
That's one set of wild looking headers-so the stock gasket worked well for you, I take it. I'd love to get a set of these but I'm going with a less costly one-piece unit
yes t has worked very well so far i have a replacement gasket for when ever i do develop a leak but i am very pleased with them. i like how they bolt right up to the stock down pipes.
Hey, so, how soon should one retorque the manifolds. Put a felpro in there just last month. the cruiser has less than 100 miles on it since the manifold job... (need to finish up some other things before I can drive it for any extended amount of time, yet) in hours I'd say it would be around 3 -4 hours running time, tops since November 23. How much time before a retorquing is in order?
Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
Yep, Hello, my name is Mark. I use Felpro and a I double them. 
The bolts under the heat shield and carb can usually be reached witht the right combination of 3/8 inch driove sockets and extension. Sometimes you have to loosen the carb and heat shile though.
I like to give the manifolds about eight to a dozen good heat and cool cycles. It's not an absolute though. Doesn't hurt to check them early and then again a while after you have retorqued things.
Mark...
The bolts under the heat shield and carb can usually be reached witht the right combination of 3/8 inch driove sockets and extension. Sometimes you have to loosen the carb and heat shile though.
I like to give the manifolds about eight to a dozen good heat and cool cycles. It's not an absolute though. Doesn't hurt to check them early and then again a while after you have retorqued things.
Mark...
- Thread starter
- #27
So if I just get frustrated and wait until after my next smog check to install my header, am I risking burning a valve -I know I've got an intake leak around the #3 & or #4 cylindars? Or am I just paranoid? the county smog people tell me I can't put on anything other than stock equipment even if I do have the EGR system working properly Etc.( one year earlier,'80 and down does'nt matter),So with all the intelagence and experiance I'm hearing from you guys, do you think a burned valve is something to worry about if I drive around for another few months before a change over?
Yep, Hello, my name is Mark. I use Felpro and a I double them.
The bolts under the heat shield and carb can usually be reached witht the right combination of 3/8 inch driove sockets and extension. Sometimes you have to loosen the carb and heat shile though.
I like to give the manifolds about eight to a dozen good heat and cool cycles. It's not an absolute though. Doesn't hurt to check them early and then again a while after you have retorqued things.
Mark...
Thanks. May try it. Gotta finish the clutch first.
Barry
thread revival
Well, my intake leak just went away for 3 months and a few hundred miles. After some weekend wheeling its back. Time to go after it.
I plan to try retightening the bolts before I go to Plan B of redoing the header with double gaskets. I discovered I can get a 17mm offset wrench on the hardest to reach bolts if I lay on my back and reach up through the frame. My question is: Does the engine have to be warm to do this? I tried it today after letting it get to operating temp but found the pipes too hot to reach through even with a heavy jacket on. Can this be done cold or at somewhat cooled down temp?
Well, my intake leak just went away for 3 months and a few hundred miles. After some weekend wheeling its back. Time to go after it.
I plan to try retightening the bolts before I go to Plan B of redoing the header with double gaskets. I discovered I can get a 17mm offset wrench on the hardest to reach bolts if I lay on my back and reach up through the frame. My question is: Does the engine have to be warm to do this? I tried it today after letting it get to operating temp but found the pipes too hot to reach through even with a heavy jacket on. Can this be done cold or at somewhat cooled down temp?
anyone?
Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
It does not have to be warm.
Mark...
Mark...
Mark,
When you double up the gaskets, do you put some gasket sealant between the two, or do you just leave them dry?
Also, I have both the felpro gasket and the OEM gasket in front of me. There is no difference as far as I can tell. Same material, same thickness, same flexibility. Am I missing something? Another strange thing is that the felpro gasket kit also comes with the heat riser gaskets, except that they are not the same material as the manifold gasket. They are that crappy foil sandwich like the SOR gasket. The OEM heat riser gasket is made from the higher quality material. Does all of this agree with your experience?
When you double up the gaskets, do you put some gasket sealant between the two, or do you just leave them dry?
Also, I have both the felpro gasket and the OEM gasket in front of me. There is no difference as far as I can tell. Same material, same thickness, same flexibility. Am I missing something? Another strange thing is that the felpro gasket kit also comes with the heat riser gaskets, except that they are not the same material as the manifold gasket. They are that crappy foil sandwich like the SOR gasket. The OEM heat riser gasket is made from the higher quality material. Does all of this agree with your experience?
Just for comparison... a pic of a Felpro gasket and the one that came with a header from MAF
thread revival x2
Just got my (Mark Algazy) rebuilt carb in the mail today.
I'm planning to redo the header when I install the carb in hopes of finally eliminating my intake leak.
I wanted to reask the question whether or not to use sealant of some sort with the doubled felpro gaskets. Anyone who's done this with good results care to respond? Sealant or no sealant? Which type?
Happy 2008
Just got my (Mark Algazy) rebuilt carb in the mail today.
I'm planning to redo the header when I install the carb in hopes of finally eliminating my intake leak.
I wanted to reask the question whether or not to use sealant of some sort with the doubled felpro gaskets. Anyone who's done this with good results care to respond? Sealant or no sealant? Which type?
Happy 2008
Matt60
KiSS of Death
i double up the felpro gasket party w/ some aerosol spray copper coat. i've tried several combos but this seems the seal the header the best. my first problem is that i need to ditch the 6-1 crap and go with a split set up some day. how ever i did stop using the collector gasket and have had no leaks b/c of this..
I got my Carb. back from Mark A. just the other day and decided to do the same myself with replacing the header gasket, thought about using two, but I decided to go with one Fel-pro gasket since I was going to use the Permatex copper spray gasket, rated for hi temps. Wish I could tell ya how it works, but I can't, only time will tell.
I'm in the middle of doing the same exact thing. Having the carb rebuilt and changing the manifold gaskets and whatever else is easily accessible right now.
I'd go with the Fel-pro gaskets.
I didn't mark anything but I took lots of pictures and have the FSM to go by if I run into trouble.
thread revival x2
Just got my (Mark Algazy) rebuilt carb in the mail today.
I'm planning to redo the header when I install the carb in hopes of finally eliminating my intake leak.
I wanted to reask the question whether or not to use sealant of some sort with the doubled felpro gaskets. Anyone who's done this with good results care to respond? Sealant or no sealant? Which type?
Happy 2008
That's funny, I just took mine in this past weekend. He's working on it right now.
Can't wait to slap it on.
