Heims and Uniballs are the standard for harcore offroading, from rocks to desert racing. They are stronger, last longer (in extreme duty situations), and flex more than bushings.
Quality ones are self lubricating and teflon coated.
Bushings are only used on passenger vehicles because they're...
I could certainly see how it would be useful in the world of charcoal canisters.
But living in the land of the emissions-free, and thus charcoal-freed, reaching that sideways thing is no problem.
Though the oil dribbling down over everything is kind of annoying...
You mean a rework of location, installation of hydraulics, or what?
For the stock setup just make sure you have as much uptravel as possible, and dont push it, because doing this without proper modification is a good way to bend axles, stress the frame, and trash your suspension.
The only time i see powder coating chipping is when something heavy and similarly hard is set on it and allowed to shift over the face of it.
Happens when idiots dont properly seperate fences/gates/rails/etc that have been powder coated, when loading them in truck beds or on trailers...
I have 3" OME competitions coils in the front and regular Heavies in the rear. s***ty twintubes of moderate-firmness all around (doetsch if you must).
I have no weight in the rear currently (including spare tire, seats, etc) and have about 4" of lift on each end.
The ride is on the harsh side...
Power, economy, availability of parts, gen3/4 reliability, humongous aftermarket, weight savings, size, choice of transmission, etc
You know, just a couple trivial things.
You dun goofed mentioning Hanes here.
Generally that practice is frowned upon, as doing so means grease may force itself past your seals including into the inner axle.
I've never lost a brake caliper, never snapped a caliper bolt, and never used a torque wrench on a caliper.
Excuse me while I go find a large wooden beam to rigorously tap.
But really, the only things I use torque wrenches on would be anything inside the engine/transmission/TC (except for the...
Your can either dump money into an ancient inefficient cast iron anchor with overpriced parts to get a fair bit of power.
Or you can future proof your car by putting in an extremely popular series of engines that will leave you future proofed for decades, with no issue of parts availability...
93-94 for the 1fz, but no obd2.
Way easier to tear superfluous emissions garbage off the vehicle with obd1.
But if you're stuck keeping it, anything 93+
You see "6.5" anywhere in my post?
And I had no idea that there were Fs and 2Fs that came in 80s either...
But I do suppose calling them slower than 3fs was probably unfair and incorrect.
If you ever thought the toyota engines in the 80 were gutless boat anchors, stay the hell away from the 6.2. I suppose if all it was ever gonna do is wander over rocks you'd be ok.
There was only one 6.2 I've ever seen that I liked and that was the military spec version in a late 80s army K20.
Got the lift on 2 weeks ago, finally got some pictures.
OME 481 3" comp coils in the front, 863s in the rear. 12.5" travel front and 11.5" travel rear Doetsch 8000 shocks.
Even with the cheap shocks, I don't find the comp coils particularly uncomfortable despite their stiffness. Also...
The only thing I'd want a manual in would be a sportscar simply for fun factor.
The manual is outdone in essentially every way other than reliability (debatable) and lightness by, semi-autos and automatic transmissions.
In a truck I'd take a good automatic any day. Torque converters are just...