I put in a couple layers of adhesive heat shield stuff under the carpet of the passenger footwell and tranny hump. also put some on the it above the downtube & over the cats under the truck. helped immensley...
synth fluids wherever possible. engine running top notch. crank your tire as high as you can bear. change your driving habits. dont accelerate to a stop light. try to time your approaches to traffic lights so you dont have to come to complete stops. accelerate from a stand still very smoothly...
my lack of functioning EGR actually made my mileage better. been enjoying the warm cel glow for over 2 years now. makes up for my lack of D light :steer:
that said. if it were me, i'd ignore it for as long as you can...if it is insufficient flow code...P0410. the egr police will tell you to...
ive got stubbs sliders with kickout, and they work fine as steps for my 3, 7 and 9 year old. with the lil one i have to pull her up by hand, but she has no problem getting her feet up on the sliders to step in. no issues with roof access either.
i just put some grip tape on em and all is good...
if alt is rebuilt and checks out OK, id be willing to be its a dead battery or regulator. had the same issue couple months ago. battery was about 4+ years old. charge light came on during the drive to work, but barely made it to the parking lot. couldnt start it after. wifey took me to the parts...
i just used some 1X1 square tube, cut it about 3-4" and drilled 2 holes. longer bolts and done. theres no exact measurement thats right or wrong...just as long as it clears the drive shaft.
mine rubbed a bit when i went to 4" coils...but hasnt since installed the spacers...
gun metal for sure. at least thats my opinion. white mags not so much unless its a WRX or a tuner.
not fond of black on dark, but black on white/grey looks good.
at least with the gun metal..it should match well with black bumpers/sliders etc and wont get lost in the black tire.
where...
delete/bypass/remove the EGR if you dont have smog testing. its useles, robs your motor of power and fuel economy. although some here may tell you otherwise...dont believe them.
but if you absolutely MUST get it to work...
check all the vacuum lines & ports. esp the one that goes through...
'the' meaning the 1fz? or all egr in general? if you're referring to the 1fz, then please state your source. because if it's true, then why does mine, ebag's, bear80's and countless others' 80 series still continue to function flawlessy with no functioning egr system?
back up with facts...
im no EGR expert, but im in the same camp as ebag and semil. why? because i've had the P0401 for the last few years. thought about adding the resistor mod, or even going all out and replacing the lines and VSV which is most likely the culprit after all my testing, but ive grown so fond of the...
bummer dave. sorry to hear...hopefully its not as bad as it sounds. apparently theres an LX in the local wrecker here...and with all the 1HDT swaps going around, theres bound to be something, should it be that bad...
good luck!
also check out cruisin off road's rear bumpers. they're comparable to the slee's in looks/mount/accessories. and not too far from you if you fancy a drive, dont have to worry about shipping and im sure he could install for you at his shop as well. jason (cruisin' is his mud handle) is a great...
255s. but then your tires will look funny being too skinny in the flares with stock wheels. 305s, but they're smaller but fatter than the 285s, and weight loss is marginal. 285s...but then they'll look too small compared to how the 315s filled the gap. 295s...might as well stick with the 315s...
yep. bypass is where its at. less points of failure. 2 clamps and 1 hose vs, multiple clamps, hose, and metal tubing. its like using a piece of 2, 3, and 4" wires, and butt connectecting them together to get one 10" piece of wire...doesnt make sense.