Crank, no start. Uncertain on a few things (1 Viewer)

[musthave]

74 cruiser. Has a 2F from an 86 that Iinstalled. Trying to get it running for my son. Motor desmogged, little if any egr items remain.

Wiring harness isn't connected to things yet. Have battery in, new fuel pump, and lines in from new tank.

Carb ports are capped in accordance eith JimC threads. One vacuum line running "towards" distributor.

Had small spark wnen testing plug 1. Assumed air, questionable vacuum, have gas in tank, have tried pouring directly into carb.

Cranks, but no start at all.

Verified 12v output to 2 wires to distributor. Verifed 12v on center coil wire.

Not sure where vacuum line from carb should go on distributor. Pic below.

Also have line on bottom of vcv? that ehere it goes???

I doubt that's preventing it from starting for a second at least. New cap and rotor will be here tomorrow.

Just not sure on above, and what else to look for.

 

[musthave]

Also, vacuum comes from here? I know not the right hose, just trying to get it to start.

 

[fjc-man]

Are you using the matching igniter with that electronic distributor?

 

[musthave]

Are you using the matching igniter with that electronic distributor?

I believe so. It is not the FJ40 one, it came from a 60 series.

 

[fyton2v]

As near as I can tell, the vacuum port from the carb should connect to the outside port on that distributor ... to make it advance when vacuum happens. But that's not causing your no start problem. You need to see if you're getting a strong spark on all your plugs.

 

[45Dougal]

Vacuum on the distributor is to advance the timing when under load - so irrelevant when starting, apart from any air leak from open pipes.
A weak spark sounds more like the wrong coil for electronic points, or a bad ground on one or other.
Have you checked your valve clearances?

 

[musthave]

As near as I can tell, the vacuum port from the carb should connect to the outside port on that distributor ... to make it advance when vacuum happens. But that's not causing your no start problem. You need to see if you're getting a strong spark on all your plugs.

Ok, where should the other port go to?

New distributor cap and rotor tomorrow. Not sure if that's the issue. Plugs are new, wires appear new. On plug 1 I had small spark when holding close to ground.

 

[musthave]

Vacuum on the distributor is to advance the timing when under load - so irrelevant when starting, apart from any air leak from open pipes.
A weak spark sounds more like the wrong coil for electronic points, or a bad ground on one or other.
Have you checked your valve clearances?

I haven't checked valve clearances. Or perhaps I did when I had the head done.

Should there be a ground from battery to coil?

How can I tell if it is the correct coil?

 

[45Dougal]

The coil should be grounded via the casing clamp back to the battery negative.
If you've had the head off, then all the valves will need adjusting due to the new gasket thickness.

 

[musthave]

The coil should be grounded via the casing clamp back to the battery negative.
If you've had the head off, then all the valves will need adjusting due to the new gasket thickness.

I had the head off for refinishing. The new gasket installed. I believe I adjusted the valves before putting on the valve cover, but now I'm wondering if I didn't do it, or didn't do it correctly. With that completely prevent it from starting? It doesn't seem like it even gets close. I'm not accustomed to working on carburetors, but to me it seems like there is no fuel being burned.

I will run a separate ground from the battery to the clamp. There is not one currently. It is only grounded to the fender, which is probably not adequate. Would that prevent it from starting?

 

[thatcabledude]

How are your grounds? The power wire visible in one picture is janky.

 

[musthave]

How are your grounds? The power wire visible in one picture is janky.

I just ran a ground from the battery to the base of the coil bracket. Other ground to frame.

Power wire is temporary to starter for testing.

 

[thatcabledude]

I just ran a ground from the battery to the base of the coil bracket. Other ground to frame.

Power wire is temporary to starter for testing.

Put a good one to the engine block. The starter is working so I guess you may have a sufficient one there though

 

[musthave]

Yes, good to starter. I'll add a 3rd one to the block.

 

[45Dougal]

I had the head off for refinishing. The new gasket installed. I believe I adjusted the valves before putting on the valve cover, but now I'm wondering if I didn't do it, or didn't do it correctly. With that completely prevent it from starting? It doesn't seem like it even gets close. I'm not accustomed to working on carburetors, but to me it seems like there is no fuel being burned.

I will run a separate ground from the battery to the clamp. There is not one currently. It is only grounded to the fender, which is probably not adequate. Would that prevent it from starting?

Well if all the valves are stuck open because they're too tightly adjusted then you'll never get compression to even fire.
You dropped fuel in the top I think, so you should smell unburnt fuel at the exhaust if its been pulled through, and even if the carb is not working you'd expect a couple of pops at least.
How weak is the spark you see, and was the plug well grounded?
Ignition timing untouched? Plug leads on the right plugs?

 

[musthave]

I checked the valves this morning, they appear to be fine. I picked up the new distributor, new router. I added a ground directly to the block.

Thanks to everyone's help, it started right up.

Next, I need to find out if I am getting fuel from the tank to the carburetor. As my test was done with fuel directly into the carburetor.

 

[musthave]

I've moved on to fuel. I took the line off at the carburetor, started it with gas in the carburetor, and I get no gas coming through.

I just installed a new fuel pump, new gas tank.

I'm not sure how the pump works. I would think it would pull gas from the tank in that it is not gravity.

I disconnected the line at the tank and it was dry. I was able to easily suck some fuel out of the tank.

Where should I look at next to determine why no fuel is getting to the carburetor?

 

[John Smith]

Do you have 12V+ applied to the fuel cut solenoid on the carb when trying to start?

 

[musthave]

Do you have 12V+ applied to the fuel cut solenoid on the carb when trying to start?

Yes, I have 12v to the solenoid, it clicks, starts up fine with gas in carb but no gas coming into carb from line.

 

[hobbes]

I've moved on to fuel. I took the line off at the carburetor, started it with gas in the carburetor, and I get no gas coming through.

I just installed a new fuel pump, new gas tank.

I'm not sure how the pump works. I would think it would pull gas from the tank in that it is not gravity.

I disconnected the line at the tank and it was dry. I was able to easily suck some fuel out of the tank.

Where should I look at next to determine why no fuel is getting to the carburetor?

So you pulled your feed line at the fuel tank and no fuel came out but there is fuel in the tank? If so then maybe the tank has rust in it.