I see BEB's come in standard size and are also available in incrementally smaller and larger sizes. If engine is original (220,00km) is there any reason to go with anything other than standard size? I'm looking at ACL race bearings.
Official 1HD-T 1HD-FT 1HD-FTE and 1HZ BEB thread (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Greg_B
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
if your crank has never had any work done then standard is what you are after.
Appreciate the feedback.
Here's a japanese research paper into bearing cavitation in a 6 cylinder diesel engine: https://www.tytlabs.co.jp/en/english/review/rev401epdf/e401_036aoyama.pdf
Two authors are from Toyota.
They found it to be worst at 90Nm load and 2200rpm. Which is the kind of speed and load you'd get for hours on end touring Australia.
Which is why Australia found this problem before New Zealand did even though we got the same vehicles and engines. NZ driving is more variable speed and load.
Two authors are from Toyota.
They found it to be worst at 90Nm load and 2200rpm. Which is the kind of speed and load you'd get for hours on end touring Australia.
Which is why Australia found this problem before New Zealand did even though we got the same vehicles and engines. NZ driving is more variable speed and load.
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
- Threads
- 186
- Messages
- 11,060
- Location
- Boise - Idaho
- Website
- www.snlandcruisers.com
For Toyota bearings look at the stamp on the bottom side of the block. There will be seven numbers stamped on the back bottom corner of the block, such as; 1221222. Since Toyota has such tight tolerances the numbers are “code” as to what was fitted at the factory. You purchase standard sizes from Toyota by these numbers.
FTE is different in that they added letters. To decode the FTE you need to reference the FSM.
Also just an FYI, conrod bearings are stamped on the crank. Piston ring size is stamped on the top back of the block. They will be six numbers not seven.
Cheers
Dilspec
SILVER Star
What’s the overall consensus on replacing these every 100KM? Probably not warranted if already done once?
Did mine at 200KM and approaching 300KM…
Did mine at 200KM and approaching 300KM…
Oil sample. It will tell you like nothing else can
BEBs done, hardest part was taking oil pan off. Plasti gauge was top of spec on bearing 5 & 6. Bearing 6 was roughest by far. Installed ACL RACE BEARINGS standard size.
Dilspec
SILVER Star
Is that your first replacement or second?
It's my first
Getting ready to knock this job out over the weekend. Help me understand the Plastigage step. What do you do if it is outside of specs? Different size bearings?
SteelHunterFJ80
SILVER Star
Can you elaborate a bit more? About to have my oil sent in to black stone
If the oil analysis shows white metal/ bearing metal in the sample, change the bearings.
If it shows none, let them ride, and retest oil in another 20 or 30k km
What mudge says…
Basically, the oil lab will give you a break down of what metals and other substances (eg carbon/soot) they find in the oil. IIRC lead is one of the main metals in bearing material so high lead is an indicator of excessive bearing wear, but the lab will help you decode the results. It’s an incredibly insightful and helpful diagnostic, but is better when you have established a baseline/standard for your engine. However a one off is still invaluable for seeing if something’s wearing badly in your engine.
Here are a couple pictures of mine. 1993 HDJ81 200,000 km's. Not sure if they were already replaced once but I doubt it. Cylinders 5 and 6 looked pretty bad the rest looked great.
1993 HDJ81, 224,000 Kilometers. #6 was the most damaged
Hi guys,
I changed my bearings about 100K Km ago with ACL Standard bearings.
I've already added another 100K Km do I need to do bearings again anytime soon?
or once you're done no need to change again?
I changed my bearings about 100K Km ago with ACL Standard bearings.
I've already added another 100K Km do I need to do bearings again anytime soon?
or once you're done no need to change again?
send out an oil sample. the ACLs should have corrected the issue.
Yeah that won’t help me because oil is going to be contaminated. Long story short turbo failure. I think I’m just going to drop the pan and pull #6 out to inspect and go from there.
