Sounds good. I have the Blackstone kit ready for my next oil change. I run shell T6 15W40 and have changed the oil only twice since purchase.
Official 1HD-T 1HD-FT 1HD-FTE and 1HZ BEB thread
- Thread starter Greg_B
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Agreed. Test at 70k, km, if all good. Test at 90k. If all good test every 20k
If metals in the oil, test every 10k or change them.
I personally wouldn't change them without reason to.
I tore down my 1hd-t at about 250k km, and there was no cause for concern with any of the bearings.
I think if I owned another, I would try to test every 20k after bearings hit 100k km.
If metals in the oil, test every 10k or change them.
I personally wouldn't change them without reason to.
I tore down my 1hd-t at about 250k km, and there was no cause for concern with any of the bearings.
I think if I owned another, I would try to test every 20k after bearings hit 100k km.
This...IMO...
I had my BEB changed when I first got the truck at 110k km. I'm now at 360k km and I get UOA done at 20k km. I haven't seen any changes to the UOA that indicates I need to replace the BEB again so far.
Bought my 91 1hdt 80 series at just over 300km, now has just clocked over 400km. The old owner said he had replaced, not sure on the kms, I thought to be safe I'll do them again.
Old bearings are ACL brand. a bit of wear but not too bad.
Old bearings are ACL brand. a bit of wear but not too bad.
Kind of an introductory post on me and my new to me HZJ77. It currently sports a NA 1HZ with 164,000 kms and an automatic transmission. I have had it for nearly a month. On delivery and first drive, I noticed tons of black smoke and the tendency for the EGTs to climb abruptly (probe in exhaust manifold just above the down pipe connection). I have read tons on the forum about these being easy to turn too much fuel to. Sure enough in looking at the fuel screw, it had been monkeyed with. After backing the screw out 1/4" at a time and test driving over the next few days, I ended up with clean exhaust/very little smoke/max egts of 1150 with 1.25 turns back. I'll post in the 70 series my intentions for the truck, but a turbo is in the plans. Knowing it has been over fueled somewhere along the lines, I decided best to change the BEB when I dropped the pan to weld in the oil bung. I am glad I did. Put in standard OEM bearings and new bolts. Big thanks to this thread/site for the knowledge shared. Here is what the bearings looked like:
Do you know if these are the original bearings? Just curious.
As far as I know. Here are the marking on the ones I removed.
Old post, curious if you ever did this. i'm a fan of Swaintech stuff, how did this go? have you pulled the bearings since?
Curious, should I be checking the mains as well while the oil pan is off and Im under there? Ive never seen a thread about replacing BEB and mains? Are the mains not as prone to failure or are they not replaceable in the same manor? Im sorry, I have not looked at the fsm on mains yet…Thanks for any info.
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You have to drop the girdle to do the mains. Much bigger job especially with the block in the Cruiser.
From what I have seen on a dozen or so tear downs now, if there is heavy wear on the conrod bearings chances are the crank bearings show wear too. They are not as critical as conrods though and what matters more on the crank is thrust. I haven’t seen any thrust washers or more to the point crank thrust out of spec yet.
If you are going to do the crank bearings I would also pull the crank, get run out checked on it and journals polished. If you go that far why not pull pistons, give it a light hone and thorough check over and fresh rings too?
That’s why you don’t hear of people doing the crank bearings and they never had the failure rate the conrod (BEB) did which was only on early 1HDTs.
Thing is if you do a light rebuild or “refresh” on the bottom end, you can usually get away with putting stock bearings and rings back in it. Considering these engines can do three rebuilds, you still have got your two oversized rebuilds left. If you were to do the bottom end as preventative maintenance, say every 250k, in theory you could do many of these with only putting in stock spec parts vs going oversized. You only have to go oversized if out of specs or it has had a problem in the past like overheated, water in a cylinder, ect.
Crappy oil filtration and lack of changes plus poor quality oil will take bearings out sooner rather than later.
Cheers
Thank you for taking the time to reply with such a complete explanation. I was shocked to see the amount of wear I had on my 1HZ with relatively low kms, most problems always refer to the conrod issues being on 1HDTs. I hate doing things twice so I wanted to seek advice. Seems like you can make it a never ending path - short of rebuilding it all if you aren’t careful. Lol. Thanks again
I am in the process of having my crank repaired, I had a harmonic balancer fail and damage the snout.
I am planning on replacing the BEB's while I am in here, but I have been running into trouble figuring out which size bearing to order.
I incorrectly assumed that I could discern the bearing size based on the numbers stamped into the bearings themselves, however all of my bearings have the exact same number stamped into them. "C1-1436 STD NDG"
I have read the FSM and understand that I add the number stamped into the crank, to the number stamped into the con-rod, and that will tell me what size bearing I need. Unfortunately the crank is at the machine shop, and I did not record the numbers before I dropped it off.
My understanding is that these bearings were replaced by Land Cruisers Direct when they imported it for the previous owner, almost exactly 100,000 KM's ago.
Can anyone tell me what these BEB's are? Are these the ACL "one size fits all" bearings? Again, every bearing has the exact same stamping in it.
I think that my best path forward at this moment is to visit my crank at the machine shop, get the numbers off of it, order the OE size bearings and then check them with plasti-guage during reassembly? The Crank looked to be in great shape other than the damaged snout, BTW.
I am planning on replacing the BEB's while I am in here, but I have been running into trouble figuring out which size bearing to order.
I incorrectly assumed that I could discern the bearing size based on the numbers stamped into the bearings themselves, however all of my bearings have the exact same number stamped into them. "C1-1436 STD NDG"
I have read the FSM and understand that I add the number stamped into the crank, to the number stamped into the con-rod, and that will tell me what size bearing I need. Unfortunately the crank is at the machine shop, and I did not record the numbers before I dropped it off.
My understanding is that these bearings were replaced by Land Cruisers Direct when they imported it for the previous owner, almost exactly 100,000 KM's ago.
Can anyone tell me what these BEB's are? Are these the ACL "one size fits all" bearings? Again, every bearing has the exact same stamping in it.
I think that my best path forward at this moment is to visit my crank at the machine shop, get the numbers off of it, order the OE size bearings and then check them with plasti-guage during reassembly? The Crank looked to be in great shape other than the damaged snout, BTW.
They are Taiho bearings, standard size. Replace with the same and you’ll be gold. Unless you have your crank polished while it’s at the machine shop. Then you’ll need some undersized replacements. Your machine shop should tell you how much they took off and what size you need.I am in the process of having my crank repaired, I had a harmonic balancer fail and damage the snout.
I am planning on replacing the BEB's while I am in here, but I have been running into trouble figuring out which size bearing to order.
I incorrectly assumed that I could discern the bearing size based on the numbers stamped into the bearings themselves, however all of my bearings have the exact same number stamped into them. "C1-1436 STD NDG"
I have read the FSM and understand that I add the number stamped into the crank, to the number stamped into the con-rod, and that will tell me what size bearing I need. Unfortunately the crank is at the machine shop, and I did not record the numbers before I dropped it off.
My understanding is that these bearings were replaced by Land Cruisers Direct when they imported it for the previous owner, almost exactly 100,000 KM's ago.
Can anyone tell me what these BEB's are? Are these the ACL "one size fits all" bearings? Again, every bearing has the exact same stamping in it.
I think that my best path forward at this moment is to visit my crank at the machine shop, get the numbers off of it, order the OE size bearings and then check them with plasti-guage during reassembly? The Crank looked to be in great shape other than the damaged snout, BTW.
Thanks for the reply, however I still don't understand. The FSM has a whole procedure for selecting the correct size bearings, and there are 5 different "MK" sizes. But these Taiho bearings somehow all magically work?
Do the OE bearings have marking on them that denote the Mk?
Do the OE bearings have marking on them that denote the Mk?
I can think of two ways that my be able to fix this issue. One member has already mentioned having the bearings coated. But of course it will take along time to get data back from that. Seems like a good enough idea as the coating is supposed to protect from temporary loss of oil and if there is indeed a cavitation issue then you would have a temporary loss of oil as long as the cavitation forces are not so great that they can pull the coating off the bearings. coatings are becoming pretty mainstream nowadays.
second idea: Regardless if you think that this paper:https://www.tytlabs.co.jp/en/english/review/rev401epdf/e401_036aoyama.pdf is about the 1hdt or not the conclusion and the solution probably has merit for any engine with bearing cavitation wear. Somebody could take a bent connecting rod, cut the top off, and turn it into a jig to hold the bearings in a lathe with a 4jaw chuck, then cut 2 shallow grooves in the bearings with a boring bar. Then you would have grooves as the paper suggests. You would just be guessing on the demotions of the grooves though.
I'm probably going to coat the bearings myself with KG gearkote. but if anybody has a bent rod and wants grooves machined into their bearings id be happy to help.
second idea: Regardless if you think that this paper:https://www.tytlabs.co.jp/en/english/review/rev401epdf/e401_036aoyama.pdf is about the 1hdt or not the conclusion and the solution probably has merit for any engine with bearing cavitation wear. Somebody could take a bent connecting rod, cut the top off, and turn it into a jig to hold the bearings in a lathe with a 4jaw chuck, then cut 2 shallow grooves in the bearings with a boring bar. Then you would have grooves as the paper suggests. You would just be guessing on the demotions of the grooves though.
I'm probably going to coat the bearings myself with KG gearkote. but if anybody has a bent rod and wants grooves machined into their bearings id be happy to help.
You have to decide how picky you want to be. Toyota fine tunes the clearances at the factory to get them all as close as possible. You can go back together the same way with OEM and MK sizes or just get aftermarket bearings. The aftermarket bearings will get you in spec if nobody has ever ground your crank but measure to be sure.
Fresh out of the oven:
Going to try KG gearcote on the bearings. Its a bake on coating. Many other engines come with coated bearings from the factory figured I'll give it a try. Maybe I'll take them out in 100k miles and see what they look like.