The cavitation issue that caused your original bearing damage is still there. Some brands/types of shells may be more tolerant than others but they still need inspected and possibly changed.
Official 1HD-T 1HD-FT 1HD-FTE and 1HZ BEB thread (3 Viewers)
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The cavitation issue that caused your original bearing damage is still there. Some brands/types of shells may be more tolerant than others but they still need inspected and possibly changed.
What would you say is the interval 150K???
100,000km is a nice round number.
yeah, I think just pulling out #6 and maybe #5 to inspect every 100K is not too hard to do. if I see wear then ill have to order a standard set and plastic gauge and go from there
I was under the impression the bearing issue was related to the original bearings only, and that replacement bearings didn’t suffer the same issue.
Having said that, bearings are very cheap so I personally would pull the pan every time I do the timing belt to change the bearings/inspect the oil pickup etc. however if you have to pay someone for the labour then I probably wouldn’t bother
Having said that, bearings are very cheap so I personally would pull the pan every time I do the timing belt to change the bearings/inspect the oil pickup etc. however if you have to pay someone for the labour then I probably wouldn’t bother
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
If you're gonna pull rod ends to check bearings, are you installing new rod bolts each time?
Seems like a lot of potential for things to go wrong if there's no evidence of bearing degradation.
If you're worried about bearings test oil eject bearings are 90k old, 100k, 110k . . . if bearings are failing it should show up progressively in oil analysis
Seems like a lot of potential for things to go wrong if there's no evidence of bearing degradation.
If you're worried about bearings test oil eject bearings are 90k old, 100k, 110k . . . if bearings are failing it should show up progressively in oil analysis
yup doesn't hurt to have a spare set on hand
183k on my 1994 1-HDT. Looks good, but nice to have the peace of mind now!
I dropped my pan yesterday. Didn’t take pictures. I put standard ACL bearings in 100K km ago. And bearings still look new. It’s probably the oil I use and the by pass oil filter at work.
I’ll just do oil analysis every oil change interval and go from there.
Glad to hear that. I'm of the mindset that now that I've changed it, it should be good here on out. I used Taiho bearings. What oil are you using? I'm using Rotella T6 15W-40.
15w-40 amsoil marine with their largest bypass BPA-110 filter. I was doing extended drain intervals last oil change was 40K km ago. Oil still tested good. Pretty amazing stuff I could of gone longer but why push it further if I don’t have to.
Now I’m using 15w-40 hotshot’s black diamond outlaw with added stiction eliminator. For extra additives. Maybe a bit overkill but I’m curious how this oil holds up to amsoil.
Hotshots claims there blackdiamond oil will beat out any oil out there. I donno let’s see.
Previous owner couldn't tell me if the BEB's had been done, so I'm just going to do them so I can stop stressing at every tick and have some peace of mind and have been peeling through threads to get as much info as possible. Seemed like a scary job, but the more I read the easier it seems.
I'm at 127k kilometers, so I'm assuming its the STD size bearings, does everyone actually measure the bearings already in there and then order or just install the STD bearings and forget about it?
Ive been reading a lot about the Taiho's vs ACL bearings too and am feeling torn on which way to go.
I'm at 127k kilometers, so I'm assuming its the STD size bearings, does everyone actually measure the bearings already in there and then order or just install the STD bearings and forget about it?
Ive been reading a lot about the Taiho's vs ACL bearings too and am feeling torn on which way to go.
ACL yeah good idea to just do them.
I plastic gauge with the new ACL standard bearing set and I was within spec. But there is the odd one that might be out so it’s best to check and go from there.
Hardest part is getting the pan off! Buy a pan splitter.
I Just use a paint scraper. It’s not that hard. It’s just messy
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OEM bearings are available in all sizes except #1’s.
Cheers
Cheers
I caught hell getting mine off!
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Same. They can be a real pain to get off
Is it because of the fipg?
